I have been reading this thread with interest and will do this mod also on my SL1210. While externalizing the PSU I also want to replace the voltage regulator? Is using a LM317 or similar better that the linear voltage regulator that was used originally?
Can we also use simple buck DC-DC step down modules, like i.e. the LM2596?
Can we also use simple buck DC-DC step down modules, like i.e. the LM2596?
Thanks!
Here:
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I ordered one, looking forward to building the external PSU and enjoying the improvement 🙂 I just finished a rewire of the tonearm, took me quite some time since the original cables snapped, but what a difference in sound!! Really happy with that, so the PSU is next.
You can use an aluminium bracket to attach the pcb on the space left by the removed transformer...
But isn't the LM317 also on the limit? The voltage drops to 31 bolts right when connected?
Input voltage for that regulator is on the limit...
We waut to see you progress
I will share some pictures of my PSU transplant 🙂 probably will combine it with a recap as well while I am at it.
I didn't measure the voltage after connecting, but probably it is like you wrote. Tomorrow I'll check.
LM317HV goes up to 60V input.
LM317HV goes up to 60V input.
What parts did you use? It looks a bit different from the two resitor approach of the topic starter?
Essentially the same: 3x3300uF, 4x22ohm 3w (paralleled in couples), and x1N4007, blender and the snubber calculated with Quasimodo.
Many thanks Jim, it is a very nice misic machine!
First music test.
Cheers
Vincenzo
Awesome! Your deck looks much like mine did last time I tried messing with one before ditching it and going with a VPI. Only it looks like you have a nicer Audiomods arm than mine, as well as a better armboard than the Origin Live, which just kinda sucked the life out of things. I do hope that the power mods improved sound for you! Now to improve your bearing thrust plate (if you haven't already) and you should have that singing as well as it could ever possibly do!
Do you still have the -1200? With mods (and the stock, rewired) it will perform as well (and have better speed stability) as any VPI. 
Here's one option that isn't too crazy expensive: KAB Electro Acoustics http://www.kabusa.com
I no longer have my Technics. I do have a Phoenix Falcon and a DIY Arduino version of the Roadrunner interfaced with it, so my speed accuracy should be decent, though not as stable as a Technics. I'd tried a number of different mechanical mods on my Techy, and just never got it sounding as good as a belt drive, but like I said, I never tried the electrical mods which probably would have made a big difference based on many reports.
I'm curious how the DIY mods described here compare to the KAB electrical mods (or other more crazy expensive mods elsewhere, like Timestep). Hope its all working out well for you all!
Thanks. It is a Audiomods V with copper 6g plate and Cardas wiring. I'm very happy with the results, both in 2004 and 1989 deck!
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I was (and still am) using an Audiomods Classic arm, so not QUITE as good as your Series V. Still a great arm on every deck that I've used it on. I tried doing comparisons with the TecnoDec that I had at the time about 4 years ago, just before I got the VPI. The Technics was more time-accurate, but the belt drives always sounded better. Again, though, I never did the electrical mods, so the results of this may have turned out differently... That Technics Sound | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Do you have a quasimodo testboard? Or did you calculate the values some other way? I have no quasimodo testboard, so I will use the values used by 6L6, these are ok, right?
I have the 220/230V version of the transformer, not sure if this also means the values are the same compared to the 110V?