Hi, new to the forum got a Krell KAV 300 CD player and the cd drawer won't open. As I understand its a teac cmk-4 transport, but what I don't understand is people refer to the Teac VRDS 1? What's is that? The name for the complete transport system?
Could also do with someone confirming the part numbers of the two gears I need to fix, looking at ordering them from CHS. Many thanks Jon
Could also do with someone confirming the part numbers of the two gears I need to fix, looking at ordering them from CHS. Many thanks Jon
Jon,
As far as I know the Teac VRDS 1 is just the transport only version of perhaps the more normal VRDS-7 and 10 and 25 models. The VRDS needs to run through a DAC converter.
Have you made certain that it is the 2 wheels that are damaged. Do you know where they are? Would be happy to help and also I am due here tomorrow is one of the wheels, I only bought one of them as the other one was absolutely fine. They are about half the price of CHS if you are interested. If you want me to talk you through how to access the wheels let me know, would be happy to explain over the telephone.
E.
As far as I know the Teac VRDS 1 is just the transport only version of perhaps the more normal VRDS-7 and 10 and 25 models. The VRDS needs to run through a DAC converter.
Have you made certain that it is the 2 wheels that are damaged. Do you know where they are? Would be happy to help and also I am due here tomorrow is one of the wheels, I only bought one of them as the other one was absolutely fine. They are about half the price of CHS if you are interested. If you want me to talk you through how to access the wheels let me know, would be happy to explain over the telephone.
E.
Hello one and all,
I have experienced the same issue here in the UK, with my T1 draw mech, where the plastic gear wheel has failed.
So far the story is that I phoned Charles Hyde for the Teac spares, only to be told Onkyo have taken over, called Onkyo in Germany, passed me to GenServ who will repair items, but say they are not authorised to sell internal parts, only external accessories, so then phoned Teac, (now based in Germany) passing me onto Sontec, who, gave the same answer as GenServe.
Phoned Teac again in Germany, who has suggested to call TriPlex... who are now on lunch break!!
If this fails, can anyone suggest a solution, as after reading the entirity of this thread (which has been really usefull and helpful, Thanks ) I am starting to get frustrated that I cannot buy this simple part, but is available from Teac to one of their service agents (in the UK).
I have experienced the same issue here in the UK, with my T1 draw mech, where the plastic gear wheel has failed.
So far the story is that I phoned Charles Hyde for the Teac spares, only to be told Onkyo have taken over, called Onkyo in Germany, passed me to GenServ who will repair items, but say they are not authorised to sell internal parts, only external accessories, so then phoned Teac, (now based in Germany) passing me onto Sontec, who, gave the same answer as GenServe.
Phoned Teac again in Germany, who has suggested to call TriPlex... who are now on lunch break!!
If this fails, can anyone suggest a solution, as after reading the entirity of this thread (which has been really usefull and helpful, Thanks ) I am starting to get frustrated that I cannot buy this simple part, but is available from Teac to one of their service agents (in the UK).
The same problem with broken gear...
This one from lousy material, totally teared apart.
And the other is not like it should be but seems it is good.
.
maybe it is the solution to find some "master" to made this gear?
This one from lousy material, totally teared apart.
And the other is not like it should be but seems it is good.
.
maybe it is the solution to find some "master" to made this gear?
If
Triplex Service GmbH - home
can't help (hard to believe for me), ask this Gentlemen - also from Germany:
Mr. Heinrich Deppermann
Classic Audio Service
Ernststr. 4
D-90574 Rosstal
09127-9034106
E-Mail: heinz.deppermann@cas-germany.com
Update....
Triplex were really helpful and both gears will be replaced, the lazer gear too, as preventative maintainance.
All for just shy of 70 Euros!!! including taxes and P+P!!
Thanks for the extra address for parts... always good to have !
Now, to find out how to set the lazer up properly..... can anyone guide me in the right diection...?
Whilst I'm at it I may upgrade the clock and PSU..... any suggestions?
Triplex were really helpful and both gears will be replaced, the lazer gear too, as preventative maintainance.
All for just shy of 70 Euros!!! including taxes and P+P!!
Thanks for the extra address for parts... always good to have !
Now, to find out how to set the lazer up properly..... can anyone guide me in the right diection...?
Whilst I'm at it I may upgrade the clock and PSU..... any suggestions?
Audiofanatic, could you please order me a gear too. I have a VRDS7 player with the same problem
Thank you
Mike
Thank you
Mike
VRDS T1 gear available
I am selling 2 aluminum gears of the VRDS CMK 4 transport. The original plastic gear breakes with time due to the lubrificant which weakens the plastic. Anyone interested drop me an email.
I am selling 2 aluminum gears of the VRDS CMK 4 transport. The original plastic gear breakes with time due to the lubrificant which weakens the plastic. Anyone interested drop me an email.
Aluminum gears CMK4
Hello all!
Aluminum, or brass gears are an option, BUT think about the other gears that these two make contact with. The plastic will wear off times faster than compared to the all plastic set-up. Apart from that there will be an added noise, which is not that important for the drawer gear, but still. I was about to make brass ones for my VRDS, but then decided to buy original plastic ones.
The plastic of the gears, in my opinion ages due to the higher ambient temperature within the case of each unit, and besides they are all made of regular poliamide, so the idea is for them to actually get broken and we seek out and buy spare ones at the end of the day.
Had they been injection-molded from glass microfiber poliamide, that would have been a completely different story.
Hope that helps
Radko
Hello all!
Aluminum, or brass gears are an option, BUT think about the other gears that these two make contact with. The plastic will wear off times faster than compared to the all plastic set-up. Apart from that there will be an added noise, which is not that important for the drawer gear, but still. I was about to make brass ones for my VRDS, but then decided to buy original plastic ones.
The plastic of the gears, in my opinion ages due to the higher ambient temperature within the case of each unit, and besides they are all made of regular poliamide, so the idea is for them to actually get broken and we seek out and buy spare ones at the end of the day.
Had they been injection-molded from glass microfiber poliamide, that would have been a completely different story.
Hope that helps
Radko
aluminum gears
well, I had to replace the plastic gear which was broken. I realised that the transfer of force is quite high on both gears due to the difference in circumverences of the white and the black big gear which controls the drawer. A few of the dents on the white plastic gear were broken. So I decided to design a copy of the white gear in aluminum. In fact I am quite happy with it. I cannot detect an increase in the noise when the drawer moves. Wrt the wear out, I use the aluminum gear extensively for a year or so w/o pbs.
well, I had to replace the plastic gear which was broken. I realised that the transfer of force is quite high on both gears due to the difference in circumverences of the white and the black big gear which controls the drawer. A few of the dents on the white plastic gear were broken. So I decided to design a copy of the white gear in aluminum. In fact I am quite happy with it. I cannot detect an increase in the noise when the drawer moves. Wrt the wear out, I use the aluminum gear extensively for a year or so w/o pbs.
CMK4 inside Wadia 850
Hi,
Seems like this topic is correct for my question as You all talk about CMK4.
I got a problem with my Wadia 850 as it will not stop the spindle when i press
stop and eject.If i stop the spindle manually by hand CD tray goes out normally.
What is controlling the stop of spindle?
Or if anyone had the same situation like me could help.
Except for this "problem" player is working ok.
Hi,
Seems like this topic is correct for my question as You all talk about CMK4.
I got a problem with my Wadia 850 as it will not stop the spindle when i press
stop and eject.If i stop the spindle manually by hand CD tray goes out normally.
What is controlling the stop of spindle?
Or if anyone had the same situation like me could help.
Except for this "problem" player is working ok.
Attachments
I have taken the foray into cd player repair. I just replaced the gear in a Krell kav 300cd with vrds-? The optical pickup is a KSS213C, not the KSS240A the parts list indicated. How do you know which version it is? -7, -10, -12
I am hoping someone here can provide a clue to this. At present the drawer now moves and the disk plays, however the disc will not index and no music. What is involved to perform the alignment procedure for the optical pickup replacement? (or just to make it read again?) All help greatly appreciated.
I am hoping someone here can provide a clue to this. At present the drawer now moves and the disk plays, however the disc will not index and no music. What is involved to perform the alignment procedure for the optical pickup replacement? (or just to make it read again?) All help greatly appreciated.
Krell CD CMK-4
Are you sure you have the KSS-213?
I checked the CD DAC list, and for your model is listed with KSS-240.
With regards to the alignment procedure, do check the service manual for VRDS-T1, although I am not sure there is anything particular there, given you have used genuine spare parts. I will check what I have and let you know.
Is the laser emission ok?
Regards,
Are you sure you have the KSS-213?
I checked the CD DAC list, and for your model is listed with KSS-240.
With regards to the alignment procedure, do check the service manual for VRDS-T1, although I am not sure there is anything particular there, given you have used genuine spare parts. I will check what I have and let you know.
Is the laser emission ok?
Regards,
Attachments
Yes, it is indeed the 213. Odd I think, since as you point out that is not common. SN of the unit is: 9097110899 I can see the faint red light with the platter removed. The optical pickup seems to endlessly search. Sometimes the # of tracks and the time appear on display, but the track data never shows up when I press play. Dalbani Corp. in Miami has lot of these repair parts. You may not be able get them in Bulgaria, but they do list on e-bay. The 213 has only one trimmer to adjust. Might it be focus? I do not have a manual. Krell is usually not forthcoming with manuals, but the VRDS-T1 would be good to have.
KSS 213 KSS240
Hi!
I am surprised to see that the spare gears are offered still, they are becoming hard to find, I even was thinking of a way to reproduce them since there is a huge number of CMK-4 based players sold worldwide.
Can you point me to this company? What is their price for the two gears, or do they sell them separately?
With regards to the KSS pick-up, the only trimmer on the 213 is the one for the laser emission. You can try increasing it a bit, but first mark the trimmer with a colored marker, so you can reverse the process if needed afterwards.
A good option is for you to buy a spare pick-up, since it seems to me that the emission of the laser diode is low. I have several players showing the same problem, and all of them need a new pick-ups.
I enclose a service manual for the KSS240 plus the service buletin from Sony on the same pick-up.
Hope this will be helpful in terms of adjustment procedure.
Regards,
Hi!
I am surprised to see that the spare gears are offered still, they are becoming hard to find, I even was thinking of a way to reproduce them since there is a huge number of CMK-4 based players sold worldwide.
Can you point me to this company? What is their price for the two gears, or do they sell them separately?
With regards to the KSS pick-up, the only trimmer on the 213 is the one for the laser emission. You can try increasing it a bit, but first mark the trimmer with a colored marker, so you can reverse the process if needed afterwards.
A good option is for you to buy a spare pick-up, since it seems to me that the emission of the laser diode is low. I have several players showing the same problem, and all of them need a new pick-ups.
I enclose a service manual for the KSS240 plus the service buletin from Sony on the same pick-up.
Hope this will be helpful in terms of adjustment procedure.
Regards,
🙂Thanks very much rad. I think you are right about the emission level. I will take your advice. The information is very useful.
optical laser emission meter
Hi!
Not at all, you are always welcome.
Can you please give me the contact details for that company you said offers spare plastic gears, the drawer two-step gear and the sled two-step gear. I will need to obtain one set of those to have at hand.
In order to be sure it is an emission problem, and if you have more pick ups to check, you can use something like this:
Sper Scientific Laser Pocket Power Meter | eBay
This way you will know right away if the laser is ok, or gone.
Hi!
Not at all, you are always welcome.
Can you please give me the contact details for that company you said offers spare plastic gears, the drawer two-step gear and the sled two-step gear. I will need to obtain one set of those to have at hand.
In order to be sure it is an emission problem, and if you have more pick ups to check, you can use something like this:
Sper Scientific Laser Pocket Power Meter | eBay
This way you will know right away if the laser is ok, or gone.
