Anthony, I will post that info here assuming it is not abuse of the Forum resources. Some should warn me if it is. In the case someone does that, you should check my site from time to time. Eventually I could sort mailing list for that purpose.
Pedja
Pedja
Pedja,
About Rifa PHE425/426 - no, they are not similar in size. PHE425 are square in section with 7,5 mm side and 13 mm height. Anyway I think it will be possible to put them as on a chess-board.
As for analog filter... For example I've tried a HUGE amount of different op-amps, including AD825 / AD8561 / LM6172 / OPA2604 / LT1358 and many others. And you know what? (a huge amount of rotten tomatos are heading toward me 😉 ). I like the "sound" of cheap, old NE5532. So this is the matter of taste. Someone make analog filter on tubes, somebody on chips or trasformers.
I suggest you to make the upgraid kits for your basic constructions in the future 😉 . For exaple, AD811 was made for video appl. in general, so how about this: "Now, with the help of AD811 you can not only HEAR, but also SEE your favourite artists!!!!!"...........
Valery
About Rifa PHE425/426 - no, they are not similar in size. PHE425 are square in section with 7,5 mm side and 13 mm height. Anyway I think it will be possible to put them as on a chess-board.
As for analog filter... For example I've tried a HUGE amount of different op-amps, including AD825 / AD8561 / LM6172 / OPA2604 / LT1358 and many others. And you know what? (a huge amount of rotten tomatos are heading toward me 😉 ). I like the "sound" of cheap, old NE5532. So this is the matter of taste. Someone make analog filter on tubes, somebody on chips or trasformers.
I suggest you to make the upgraid kits for your basic constructions in the future 😉 . For exaple, AD811 was made for video appl. in general, so how about this: "Now, with the help of AD811 you can not only HEAR, but also SEE your favourite artists!!!!!"...........
Valery
Just noticed that Pedja posted the 1.1 revision information (schematic, parts, etc) on his web site.
Pedja, I was looking over the parts list and had a few questions:
On the schematic, C111 and C112 are listed as 2.2uF, while the parts list show them as 2.2nF. I'm guessing that 2.2uF is the correct value?
Are the following parts are mounted on the back side of the board? I couldn't find them on the board layout. If so, I assume that one would want to use relatively small axial components?
C01, C02
C11, C15
C20
C121, C124
On the schematic, C111 and C112 are listed as 2.2uF, while the parts list show them as 2.2nF. I'm guessing that 2.2uF is the correct value?
Are the following parts are mounted on the back side of the board? I couldn't find them on the board layout. If so, I assume that one would want to use relatively small axial components?
C01, C02
C11, C15
C20
C121, C124
Hi BZO,
Yes, C111 and C112 are 2.2microF, it is the error in the Parts List, thanks for the warning, I will correct this.
CO1 and CO2 are optional output low passing resistors and may be mounted either on the output connectors or beneath the board, using the same pads of R106 and R110.
C11, C15 and C20 are local supply bypass caps for TDA1541A and all they go beneath TDA. The pads for C11 and C15 can be seen on the picture of the top side of the rev 1.0 board. Revision 1.1 has also another pair of pads that enables their mounting somewhat closer to the analog ground pins of TDA (check “TDA1541A info” thread to see why) without scraping the solder mask. C20 does not have its own pads but goes directly between TDA’s pins 5 and 15 (it was marked like C19’ in rev 1.0).
Since I found important to mount C121 and C124 close to AD844 (previous revision showed almost every mm is important), their one side goes directly to pin 5 of AD844 and there are two or three points to mount their other side, depending on the used piece.
Pedja
Yes, C111 and C112 are 2.2microF, it is the error in the Parts List, thanks for the warning, I will correct this.
CO1 and CO2 are optional output low passing resistors and may be mounted either on the output connectors or beneath the board, using the same pads of R106 and R110.
C11, C15 and C20 are local supply bypass caps for TDA1541A and all they go beneath TDA. The pads for C11 and C15 can be seen on the picture of the top side of the rev 1.0 board. Revision 1.1 has also another pair of pads that enables their mounting somewhat closer to the analog ground pins of TDA (check “TDA1541A info” thread to see why) without scraping the solder mask. C20 does not have its own pads but goes directly between TDA’s pins 5 and 15 (it was marked like C19’ in rev 1.0).
Since I found important to mount C121 and C124 close to AD844 (previous revision showed almost every mm is important), their one side goes directly to pin 5 of AD844 and there are two or three points to mount their other side, depending on the used piece.
Pedja
Let’s use the state of thread bump to say a few words about the progress.
The things went nice this time.
The only problem I had for now was with the local regulators for the offset nulling current sources. Never thought I could have the problem with 78xx pieces, but after I tried about anything (bypassed both sides, rerouted incoming lines, tried the other pieces, put them beneath the board etc… etc is really etc!) I decided to remove them. Fortunately, this time there are preregulators, so this decision was possible. Therefore I will jumper pins 1 and 3 of the regulators currently marked like IC12 and IC15 and they are officially out of the story, but will leave all the rest as it is, so one can cut these tracks and try to deal with this in the spare time (or one can cut them if believes in chokes or resistors). Note that some regulators (starting from IC12) will be remarked because of this.
I yet have to try the JFET output buffer (tomorrow or on Saturday will be put into the action) and if all goes as it should, that is it. I am still expecting S/PDIF transformers, but the board release won’t wait for them, consider them in the meantime really like the optional components.
I will post much more info about the project to my site in a few days, but since all this takes the time do not resent for more or less constant delay. In about 5 days a vast majority of the relevant technical info should be uploaded. Probably the ordering info as well.
Then I'll take a break… and make some speakers. 😉
Pedja
The things went nice this time.
The only problem I had for now was with the local regulators for the offset nulling current sources. Never thought I could have the problem with 78xx pieces, but after I tried about anything (bypassed both sides, rerouted incoming lines, tried the other pieces, put them beneath the board etc… etc is really etc!) I decided to remove them. Fortunately, this time there are preregulators, so this decision was possible. Therefore I will jumper pins 1 and 3 of the regulators currently marked like IC12 and IC15 and they are officially out of the story, but will leave all the rest as it is, so one can cut these tracks and try to deal with this in the spare time (or one can cut them if believes in chokes or resistors). Note that some regulators (starting from IC12) will be remarked because of this.
I yet have to try the JFET output buffer (tomorrow or on Saturday will be put into the action) and if all goes as it should, that is it. I am still expecting S/PDIF transformers, but the board release won’t wait for them, consider them in the meantime really like the optional components.
I will post much more info about the project to my site in a few days, but since all this takes the time do not resent for more or less constant delay. In about 5 days a vast majority of the relevant technical info should be uploaded. Probably the ordering info as well.
Then I'll take a break… and make some speakers. 😉
Pedja
Pedja.
seems worthlike:
Eventually, reclocker driven by the canned oscillator could be included
My need: standalone DAC, start with CS8412.
What clock frequency to use if the DAC is standalone on the TDA1541?
To me it should be obvious that the Tent Clock should be usable.
To start off, I'll make a version on a piece of stale predrilled board.
Hope this will get me on the road
seems worthlike:
Eventually, reclocker driven by the canned oscillator could be included
My need: standalone DAC, start with CS8412.
What clock frequency to use if the DAC is standalone on the TDA1541?
To me it should be obvious that the Tent Clock should be usable.
To start off, I'll make a version on a piece of stale predrilled board.
Hope this will get me on the roadIt can be added, but finally it is not included.triode_al said:
As about the preferred frequency, I think I am not able to give you the answer at the moment, but in a month or two I think I will be.
There shouldn’t be reasons for which Tent clocks couldn’t be used. I will probably try some.
Pedja
Thought I would try to resurrect this as a builder's thread. I received my board despite customs best efforts to prevent it 😉 and in the last week acquired all the parts I should need to build it. It'll probably be a couple more weeks before I start on this as I am in the middle of another project.
I acquired most of the part from Mouser and Digikey. I went with MCM Electronics for the 2SK170s. If anyone wants my parts list from these vendors, I'd be happy to post them.
By the way, it turns out that the .1uF MKP10 caps that Mouser carries in the US are 10mm pitch parts not 15mm ones.
I acquired most of the part from Mouser and Digikey. I went with MCM Electronics for the 2SK170s. If anyone wants my parts list from these vendors, I'd be happy to post them.
By the way, it turns out that the .1uF MKP10 caps that Mouser carries in the US are 10mm pitch parts not 15mm ones.
I'm probably going to be posting here as well once I get my board (should be here by Thursday at the latest). I'm eventually going to buy a bunch of parts from THLAudio for this, the CD player and amplifier I'm building, and was considering buying some Wima Black Box caps for the MKP10 position. They're 15.5mm, which should be okay, but 8mm thick (ie I'd have to put every other one on the bottom of the board). Might be excessive, but hey, that's the fun of DIY. ^_^
I'm putting together my own Mouser and MCM orders -- what's the voltage rating supposed to be for the LEDs?
I'm putting together my own Mouser and MCM orders -- what's the voltage rating supposed to be for the LEDs?
bzo said:
Uh oh, it looks like these caps don't fit, they're slightly too fat. They seem to be about a mm wider than the 15mm pitch ones. I'm going to have to mount some on the bottom of the board or get some thinner ones.
3...2....1....
Hi All,
I have my board (thanks Pedja and Ron) and am now looking to gather the parts.
Having looked on the RS / Farnell sites, there are many different types of each specified component - I would prefer to pay more to get the better quality.
What about a WIKI with the parts list? Then we could list recommended parts and suppliers codes etc?
Daft idea or worth looking at?? 🙂
Cheers
Jon
Hi All,
I have my board (thanks Pedja and Ron) and am now looking to gather the parts.
Having looked on the RS / Farnell sites, there are many different types of each specified component - I would prefer to pay more to get the better quality.
What about a WIKI with the parts list? Then we could list recommended parts and suppliers codes etc?
Daft idea or worth looking at?? 🙂
Cheers
Jon
Re: 3...2....1....
Sounds a great idea Jon.
My BG's finally came, they are currently burning in nicely on my cap rack
Thanks again Pedja
Regards
Ron
jonclancy said:
Sounds a great idea Jon.
My BG's finally came, they are currently burning in nicely on my cap rack
Thanks again Pedja
Regards
Ron
WIKI
Hi Ron,
I'll try to get the WIKI up tomorrow.
Pedja is happy for us to start a builders thread for the DAC.
Cheers
Jon
Hi Ron,
I'll try to get the WIKI up tomorrow.
Pedja is happy for us to start a builders thread for the DAC.
Cheers
Jon
Re: WIKI
Great stuff Jon, I'll look forward to it.
I'm trying to find a couple of nice 1.5k resistors for the AD844's, not sure what would sound best here.
Ron
jonclancy said:Hi Ron,
I'll try to get the WIKI up tomorrow.
Pedja is happy for us to start a builders thread for the DAC.
Cheers
Jon
Great stuff Jon, I'll look forward to it.
I'm trying to find a couple of nice 1.5k resistors for the AD844's, not sure what would sound best here.
Ron
Made some progress this week. As Pedja suggested in his notes, I've started with the power supply first, and I've also installed some other misc parts that don't seem like they'll burn up if I've made a mistake somewhere 😉
Everything seems to be coming together fairly easy so far. Of note so far are:
- I don't know if it's only my board, but the pad for R103 was missing the hole, so I had to drill my own.
- Lead spacing for the rectifier diodes is very tight
Everything seems to be coming together fairly easy so far. Of note so far are:
- I don't know if it's only my board, but the pad for R103 was missing the hole, so I had to drill my own.
- Lead spacing for the rectifier diodes is very tight
Attachments
Hi bzo,
Pedja
I am trying to inspect the boards as much as I can before I ship them, it seems something passes by though. I am looking to two pieces from the same batch as yours and they do have these holes... Hope everything looks fine at the end.bzo said:
Funnily enough, I’ve used previously 400mils lead spacing for them and found this to be oversized so changed them to 350mils. I was even thinking if I should go with smaller spacing… What diodes do you use, I see they are longer than what I use (BAT42 and BAT49 made by ST (blue pieces), and 1N5819 unknown brand)?
Pedja
Hi Pedja, glad to see you back in the thread 🙂
Not a problem at all, I have some PCB drill bits, so it was simple enough to drill a hole. Now that I think about it though, I better make sure that both sides are soldered to make sure that the pads on both sides are wired together.
I'm using the IR MBR1100 100V 1A Schottky TO-41 diodes. I think they're the equivalent of the BAT49s.
Pedja, can I double check the instructions with you for connecting the output buffer?
1) Jumper the the pads by pins 5 of the AD844 to route to R111/R115. I'm assuming that R104/R108 and C121/C124 remain.
2) Disconnect or remove R105/R109, and route R114, R118 to C122 and C125.
Not a problem at all, I have some PCB drill bits, so it was simple enough to drill a hole. Now that I think about it though, I better make sure that both sides are soldered to make sure that the pads on both sides are wired together.
I'm using the IR MBR1100 100V 1A Schottky TO-41 diodes. I think they're the equivalent of the BAT49s.
Pedja, can I double check the instructions with you for connecting the output buffer?
1) Jumper the the pads by pins 5 of the AD844 to route to R111/R115. I'm assuming that R104/R108 and C121/C124 remain.
2) Disconnect or remove R105/R109, and route R114, R118 to C122 and C125.
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