TC9 active line array questions

Any opinion on whether it’s overkill to have each driver in its own volume?

I’m planning to start by dividing each side into 6 groups (2s2p). So I could use fewer dividers to make 6 volumes instead. That would allow for more chamfers.

Would you do your groupings the same still? I think you said your build was 5 groups?
 
Any opinion on whether it’s overkill to have each driver in its own volume?

I’m planning to start by dividing each side into 6 groups (2s2p). So I could use fewer dividers to make 6 volumes instead. That would allow for more chamfers.
I wouldn't say it is overkill to have them separate but I doubt you will see much benefit either way.

I wouldn't split them into smaller sections as that does tend to exacerbate differences between the drivers. When I did that I saw a more uneven impedance peak. Sorting the drivers into groups that had the most similar impedance peak frequencies, did make for a nicer impedance graph but I could not tell the difference between them while listening. If I did it again I would make it one overall chamber with matrix style bracing.
 
Would you do your groupings the same still?

As I have started experimenting with frequency dependent shading, the grouping I would choose would probably cater to that functionality if I were to redo it from scratch. I do have 5x5.

I did not really give each driver it's own compartment, but based on something Lynn Olsen said in his big beyond the Ariel thread I did close up the first part between drivers. The plan from the start was to use each divider as a brace. I don't think it's really needed though, but it's easy to overthink things when you're building and still reading the forums (lol).

chambershadow.png

That black part was the result, a piece of mass loaded vinyl between each driver where the connectors face each other. There are holes in each brace to make it one space.
 
Found the quote that made me doubt using an open shared space between drivers:

Speaker cones are close to acoustically transparent, with only a few dB of loss. (How much acoustic isolation would you expect from a wall made of paper?)

If the two (or more) drivers share a common rear chamber, the out-of-phase radiation from one driver will go through the cone of the other driver, with a bit of additional time delay thanks to the transit time between the two drivers. The net result is degraded time response and (fairly small) ripples in the frequency response. Subjectively, the midrange is muddled and confused-sounding, as you would expect with time-delayed artifacts in the 1 mSec region.

The solution is to have an isolated chamber for each driver ... although the bass vents can be shared, since the contemplated vent system has both vent damping and a folded path from the inside of the enclosure to the outside.

This was a lesson-learned from the Ariel ... an early version with a shared chamber sounded quite bad, while measuring pretty well. The rear-wave crosstalk isn't obvious on FR measurements unless you're looking for it, while the time-domain degradation was somewhat more obvious and clear with respect to the phase of the delayed rear-wave. (One of the things to always remember with FR measurements is the phase and time information has been discarded ... and phase and time information can be useful for diagnostic purposes.)

Although it's easy to abuse time-domain information for marketing purposes, it is an excellent diagnostic for tracking down colorations that aren't apparent on FR graphs. When loudspeakers use a common shared rear chamber (frequently seen in commercial line-source speakers), the delayed and inverted "echo" of the first-arrival sound is revealed in the time-domain graph ... provided the driver is clean enough to reproduce a recognizable impulse, and the response is not cluttered with box-edge diffraction.
 
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Thanks for digging that up. So I’ll aim to divide them all, and with some rock wool we can keep the rear wave away from the cone.

the wiring I’ll keep 2s2p for now. That’s 6 groups per tower. I’m running each wire down to the bottom, so I can reconfigure later if it needs it.

Its so stupid hot and humid that I decided not to paint-sand today.

I ended up dragging the parts for one tower to the basement for a test-fit. Good news- everything fits reasonably well.

The bad news is the rebates on the side walls are flipped. The front should have a 0.125” rebate, the rear 0.25”. So the fit is good—but the cutouts for the transmission line are facing the wrong way. I could just skip that and leave the interior as a plain rectangle, or do some trimming of the non-rebate area. Rookie mistake to not make the part symmetrical.

I’m gotta dig up the final plans and see who made the oops. The shop had to redraw my plans because of a file compatibility issue, could have happened there.

It’s clear now I’m going to need a lot more clamps.

After some clamping I put it close to the final placement without its base. it fits the height perfectly. It’s a lot! I may end up doing some grille cloth or strings across the front to make it feel less…intimidating. Thankfully there’s no decor concerns in this half of the basement.

Don’t judge the absolutely terrible state of the “lab”!

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Be sure that I did not tell you that story to convince you to divide the drivers like I did.
I read that post from Lynn when I still had a chance to act on it by sealing off the first part for each driver. But I can't honestly tell you if it is better/worse or just different. I acted because I wasn't sure myself. I remember posting about it and saying I shouldn't read any more posts like that before finishing the arrays, because I'd keep changing the concept each time I'd read some contradictory information ;).

So even now I'm still not sure if it will change anything if the space between drivers is kept open. I had to make a call and I did. Just like you are doing now? :)

Good idea to keep the wires accessible, though it might lead to very long runs of wires. I don't remember who but I do recall someone that made a pair of connectors for each driver on the back of the enclosure. Making it possible to rewire everything as he saw fit from the outside. Pretty clever.
 
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