I want to build a (relatively simple) enclosure for a Dayton RSS390HO 15-inch driver now that I have managed to build a box that hasn't yet fallen apart for my pair of Dayton RSS265HOs.
It needs to sit up fairly near the front wall and I was wonder whether a Karlson design might work for this?
It also needs to be fairly compact. My other half tolerates the pipeline TL subwoofer I have been playing with but I think she'd rather just have a discreet box sitting there rather than a stormwater sewer in her living room. Cant think why.
Im not worried too much by how low it will go; it's more important that I actually produce something that looks a bit more like a conventional sub.
I like the old-school look of the Karlsons, but am open to anything that's simple (ish) to build and is TL in nature rather than sealed or ported (where I've already been).
The Karlson design appeals in that the driver is within the box rather than having to mount it magnet out in a more traditional TL (like BoxPlan TL1 on Brian's diysubwoofer.org page).
That said, I think a TL1 box might be an easier build than a Karlson and my building skills are rudimentary in the extreme.
Any practical advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
It needs to sit up fairly near the front wall and I was wonder whether a Karlson design might work for this?
It also needs to be fairly compact. My other half tolerates the pipeline TL subwoofer I have been playing with but I think she'd rather just have a discreet box sitting there rather than a stormwater sewer in her living room. Cant think why.
Im not worried too much by how low it will go; it's more important that I actually produce something that looks a bit more like a conventional sub.
I like the old-school look of the Karlsons, but am open to anything that's simple (ish) to build and is TL in nature rather than sealed or ported (where I've already been).
The Karlson design appeals in that the driver is within the box rather than having to mount it magnet out in a more traditional TL (like BoxPlan TL1 on Brian's diysubwoofer.org page).
That said, I think a TL1 box might be an easier build than a Karlson and my building skills are rudimentary in the extreme.
Any practical advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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High Vas, medium high Qts = BIG BOX, at least = Vas, so sealed or small baffle OB with stretched open weave cloth over a frame to create a back box. Won't go very low unless the room loads it well, but very high WAF if she gets to choose the cloth, baffle finish. Make the top solid and it makes a great potted plant stand.
GM
edit: Oops! I looked at the HF version, HO has a much lower Vas, low Qts, so MUCH smaller cab [by my standards].
GM
edit: Oops! I looked at the HF version, HO has a much lower Vas, low Qts, so MUCH smaller cab [by my standards].
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Yeah, 167L is a rather big box. Tried OB bass before and it never really worked in this room. It might with a swag of drivers perhaps.
I'm liking the TL sound too much to give it away. Are the Karlsons big boxes as well?
I'm liking the TL sound too much to give it away. Are the Karlsons big boxes as well?
Classic BR is ~117 L, but a large enough vent to tune it to Fs vent makes it ~150 L combined, so a 10:1 inverse tapered TQWT would work.
Tuning to max flat = ~25.5 Hz Fb @ ~140 L. Below this point low end starts dropping away [higher F3].
A 27.5 Hz TL with ~3:1 CR = ~82 L, can [in theory] handle 800 W/120+ dB/~32 Hz, so can go 'live' with Concert Grand piano, drum kit, electronic organ or similar. 😀.
GM
Tuning to max flat = ~25.5 Hz Fb @ ~140 L. Below this point low end starts dropping away [higher F3].
A 27.5 Hz TL with ~3:1 CR = ~82 L, can [in theory] handle 800 W/120+ dB/~32 Hz, so can go 'live' with Concert Grand piano, drum kit, electronic organ or similar. 😀.
GM
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here's a page to look at:
Plan ! - D-20 (hz) Macro Sub ..tapped horn by moi. - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1
I took his pipe for 12" and increased the width by 3 inches for the corner position simulation below
Plan ! - D-20 (hz) Macro Sub ..tapped horn by moi. - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1
I took his pipe for 12" and increased the width by 3 inches for the corner position simulation below
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Why was that sim done in 0.5 PI space?
2 PI space is normally used, for easy comparison purposes.
2 PI space is normally used, for easy comparison purposes.
Thanks Freddi, much appreciated.
I've just had a brief gander so will look again in depth tomorrow.
This was the kind of build I was looking for, after discovering that 'small' box and TLs kind of don't really belong together.
So if I have to build something big, as skinny and shallow as possible and tall for volume is best compromise for the space available.
Brian mentions the sim wasn't in 2Pi which I understand sims for in-room response. What does 0.5 pi sim for, anechoic?
I've just had a brief gander so will look again in depth tomorrow.
This was the kind of build I was looking for, after discovering that 'small' box and TLs kind of don't really belong together.
So if I have to build something big, as skinny and shallow as possible and tall for volume is best compromise for the space available.
Brian mentions the sim wasn't in 2Pi which I understand sims for in-room response. What does 0.5 pi sim for, anechoic?
What you should be designing is a T-TQWT .. which is what a TL style karlson sub effectively is . Search the posts . I've built 3 so far, .. 2 worked well (1 for a Shiva 12, 1 for a TB W69), .. one sucked (don't remember which driver)
They can be modelled in Hornrrsp
They can be modelled in Hornrrsp
The specs of that driver suggest that it's a good candidate for a OD-TL layout like what I did for my "Boom Unit" build (see below). You can use the same spreadsheet to come up with your own layout. Next box size will likely work out to be around 140~150 L. It will have the same SPL capability as the other designs discussed here, with the additional advantage of wider usable bandwidth.
The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : The Boom Unit
The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : The Boom Unit
Thanks v much for the heads up Brian.
The Boom Unit would appear to deliver on the low bass, compact and easy-to-build fronts.
The fact it also reaches higher than some of the narrower TL designs is an added bonus because my mains, based on 5-inch TB W5-2145 full range units, don't do an awful lot of bass.
Will be sure to insert the RSS390 HO figures in your work book.
Again, thanks for thinking of this.
Cheers
Peter
The Boom Unit would appear to deliver on the low bass, compact and easy-to-build fronts.
The fact it also reaches higher than some of the narrower TL designs is an added bonus because my mains, based on 5-inch TB W5-2145 full range units, don't do an awful lot of bass.
Will be sure to insert the RSS390 HO figures in your work book.
Again, thanks for thinking of this.
Cheers
Peter
Brian, I've tried using your MLTL worksheet and can input the numbers for the RSS390 into the workbook but don't know how to get it to do the calcs!
Perhaps it is because Im using google chrome/drive spreadsheets.
What programme should I be opening it in, Excel?
It just doesn't seem to want to work using Sheets in Google Chrome.
My partner has Excel so I can do it on her computer if that's what I need to do.
Perhaps it is because Im using google chrome/drive spreadsheets.
What programme should I be opening it in, Excel?
It just doesn't seem to want to work using Sheets in Google Chrome.
My partner has Excel so I can do it on her computer if that's what I need to do.
The sheets require Excel 2003 or better. They use VB macros for optimization, and I'm not sure that Google Sheets supports that.
I had a quick gander at the programme opened in Excel and it is a totally different animal.
So I will have a proper attempt at modelling the RSS390 in a MLTL when I can wrench the laptop away from the missus for an hour or so.
So I will have a proper attempt at modelling the RSS390 in a MLTL when I can wrench the laptop away from the missus for an hour or so.
Please forgive my utter ignorance here. When it comes to new software I am always truly and completely hopeless.
I input the numbers for the RSS390 HO driver in the Boom Unit/MLTL worksheet but I am not sure where to go from there as there is no 'calculate' button that I can see.
So when i went to the design section, it was just a mess.
Clearly Im doing missing something fundamental.
I input the numbers for the RSS390 HO driver in the Boom Unit/MLTL worksheet but I am not sure where to go from there as there is no 'calculate' button that I can see.
So when i went to the design section, it was just a mess.
Clearly Im doing missing something fundamental.
The BOXPLAN workbook allows you to design a box, and it outputs the equivalent Hornresp sim. Importing the sim into Hornresp and having a look at the results will give you an idea of how your build will perform.
For starting values, set the size of the box to the width of the driver plus say an inch on either side, the depth to twice that, and the mouth area (S4?) to be about a third of the driver's Sd, and use the "Optimize" feature to optimize the internal layout. Then use "Export" to export the sim and check it in Hornresp. See the instructions on the The Subwoofer DIY Page - Horn Folding page for more info on how to use the BOXPLAN workbooks.
For starting values, set the size of the box to the width of the driver plus say an inch on either side, the depth to twice that, and the mouth area (S4?) to be about a third of the driver's Sd, and use the "Optimize" feature to optimize the internal layout. Then use "Export" to export the sim and check it in Hornresp. See the instructions on the The Subwoofer DIY Page - Horn Folding page for more info on how to use the BOXPLAN workbooks.