I used the built in mic on my galaxy S9 phone. I do have a large diaphragm condenser mic if that would be a better choice.
I have started building and it occurs to me that I have not addressed the bottom weight at all. I'm using a 3FE22 and my understanding is that I should employ standard vent.
I think I would like to make the vent vertical to help satisfy weighting the bottom. I see one suggestion for 13cm. Correct?
I think I would like to make the vent vertical to help satisfy weighting the bottom. I see one suggestion for 13cm. Correct?
This is a good idea however I find that it's not enough. It's better to have a wider bottom board or some feet that sticks out from the speakers
irishpatric33
If you fill the box with sand it should be fine. Or make a false bottom with sand.
I have no problems with the cabinet, no extra stabilisation.
PS: If you make the vertical port, make it 9.7 cm.
Bjørn
If you fill the box with sand it should be fine. Or make a false bottom with sand.
I have no problems with the cabinet, no extra stabilisation.
PS: If you make the vertical port, make it 9.7 cm.
Bjørn
kissabout2002
Have you tried to listen to different sinus tones? This can give you a quick idea of when the bass droppes off.
Bjørn
Have you tried to listen to different sinus tones? This can give you a quick idea of when the bass droppes off.
Bjørn
You need a measurement mic like the Minidsp Umik-1 or any other measurment microphone and a specific software like REW...all the best
I am using REW, what do you mean with different sinus tones?....all the best
You can go to Youtube and find videos that play a note, and show the frequency of that note.
Some do slow sweep while showing the frequency.
Also, you could use the Generator part of REW, start at 100Hz, and lower it by hand until you hear your bass drop.
It's another thing to hear it, compared to looking at a graph on the screen.
Understood. Thank you for the info and thank you for your significant contribution to diy.
I have a pair of P830986 and would like to use them as desktop computer speakers. I've been looking at the folded TABAQ, but I'm not sure about the port solution. My plan was to move the port, but then I found this design for the 3FE22: TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
Could this work or should I redesign the port on the original? As far as I can see, the port is a lot shorter on the 3FE22 version.
Frode
Could this work or should I redesign the port on the original? As far as I can see, the port is a lot shorter on the 3FE22 version.
Frode
Hi, you could ask Bjorn to confirm, but as I understand it he made the sim that I designed that enclosure from specifically for the 3FE22, so if you want to use your driver, you would just have to tweak the dimensions of my design to the original TABAQ line/port dimensions. Or if you are not up to that, you could use Bjorn's folded design, which has the port coming out of the top (or bottom) of the enclosure, rather than on the front baffle like mine.
I'm curious what, if anything, people do with the Faital Pro driver's rubber ring on face when countersinking?
TBH, I never bothered. I use a CNC, and I even did the baffle cutout with the CNC, but I was too lazy to try to draw that strange shape in Solidworks so I could cut it out.
I guess that rubber ring is intended for back-mounting, which I guess is an option, but I would be worried about beaming. I always front mount, and then do the biggest straight chamfer I can make on the back of the baffle cutout. On my best pair of TABAQs, I made a grille out of a piece of 6-8mm thick mdf, and some grille cloth, fixed with magnets, that really looked nice, and covered the front mounted speaker quite well without affecting dispersion (I hope). Unfortunately I can't find a picture of them any more, I guess I must not have taken any, and the speakers are now in New York!
Yes the rubber ring is for back-mounting, in my case because I did not like how Faital Pro looks I simply get from Aliexpress this ring 2 Pcs Universal 4 Inch Car Speaker Solid Washer Adapters Brackets Speaker Mounts Plates Speaker Gasket Suitable for Cars|Speaker Mounts| - AliExpress and the result is quite ok....all the best
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The w5-2143 sounds great. Despite the beaming, it has nice clarify and is honest sounding. The sound stage is hugh as if some kinda spatial effect has been turned on. They do sound like a pair of big headphones. When there's a lot going on, the instrument separation is not as good as the LS50. But I can still hear the layers in the sound stage. The bass surpasses the LS50, but that wouldn't be a fair comparing a bookshelf to a floor stander. A more fair comparison would be the KEF blade. 😛
I built the TABAQs because I was looking for a cheaper point source alternative to the LS50. The TABAQs are not like the LS50s, but they are very impressive and I look no further. Now I just wanted to build more of them. Even I paid $160 for the drivers, they still worth every penny in my book. I would wanna try out the 3" folded version and see how they sound.
The only one thing about the w5-2143 is that they are very bright, way brighter than the LS50s. They sound fatiguing in long listening sessions. I lowered every thing above 1k by 3dB with software equalizer and they sounded sweet after. Now I am guessing I need to add a BSC (not sure what that standards for). Maybe a notch filter?
I built the TABAQs because I was looking for a cheaper point source alternative to the LS50. The TABAQs are not like the LS50s, but they are very impressive and I look no further. Now I just wanted to build more of them. Even I paid $160 for the drivers, they still worth every penny in my book. I would wanna try out the 3" folded version and see how they sound.
The only one thing about the w5-2143 is that they are very bright, way brighter than the LS50s. They sound fatiguing in long listening sessions. I lowered every thing above 1k by 3dB with software equalizer and they sounded sweet after. Now I am guessing I need to add a BSC (not sure what that standards for). Maybe a notch filter?
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