A picture from my 871s version. A bit different geometry and an option for cabinet changes (opening back board). Standard 80mm computer fan grill preventing mechanic hazard (three 1-4 yrs sons) of drivers.
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I've got 4 of the TB w4 1320sc's and some cheap dayton tweeters - was thinking I could use the second woofer as a .5 to compensate for baffle step in the tabaq.
Is there an optimal way to calculate the crossover for this? (or put it into MJK's spreadsheets?) Thanks!
Is there an optimal way to calculate the crossover for this? (or put it into MJK's spreadsheets?) Thanks!
measuring is the best way, but if you do not have the gear, I suggest the program "the edge" to simulate bs
so I should essentially have the .5 woofer come in at the mid point of the Baffle step compensation dip in the Edge?
A 4" TABAQ, using the W4-1052SD.
Currently it's running without BSC filter, but I think I might add one and possibly later try out a tweeter. Would love to hear how your's pans out Ang.
Thanks for the design, based just on what I hear I think it's really worked out well with these drivers.
Currently it's running without BSC filter, but I think I might add one and possibly later try out a tweeter. Would love to hear how your's pans out Ang.
Thanks for the design, based just on what I hear I think it's really worked out well with these drivers.
Apparently my attachment didn't work, let's try again...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nice looking speaker there.
Currently have wood cut for the design, will post results. Have great plans for a granite baffle, which hopefully works out.
Currently have wood cut for the design, will post results. Have great plans for a granite baffle, which hopefully works out.
Eventually, I got around to building my "folded Tabaqs" which ended up being more or less NOT Tabaqs. I just had to have a tweeter. Heresy, I know, I'm in the full-range forum and everything, but a 4" FR just gets kind of beamy. Sorry. So I explored various tweeters, etc., and then decided to just match the stuff currently in my main system - Zaph's Bargain Minis. It's a 4" MCM 55-3853, relatively similar specs to the W4-1320 in my Tabaqs. I spent some time with MJK's worksheets (before my 1-year limit ran out) and iterated to a folded, tapered line that looked good.
So I built these cabs:
Folded, tapered, longer than TABAQ and a two-way. (I guess I'm officially off-topic.) I'm rather fond of the way that the port (now a tube) extends from the bottom of the line through the top of the line and out the front of the cabinet. I used Zaph's drivers, crossover, and driver spacing verbatim, with a slightly narrower front baffle. I'll get around to adjusting baffle step someday, but it's hard to take 'em down because they sound nice.
It's hard to think of these as a final revision; the height is awkward, in between a floorstander and a standmounter. They'd make a great pair of dorm speakers or bedroom speakers, I think, because of the tiny footprint. I have no measurements, yet. Too busy listening to these and building others.
So I built these cabs:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Folded, tapered, longer than TABAQ and a two-way. (I guess I'm officially off-topic.) I'm rather fond of the way that the port (now a tube) extends from the bottom of the line through the top of the line and out the front of the cabinet. I used Zaph's drivers, crossover, and driver spacing verbatim, with a slightly narrower front baffle. I'll get around to adjusting baffle step someday, but it's hard to take 'em down because they sound nice.
It's hard to think of these as a final revision; the height is awkward, in between a floorstander and a standmounter. They'd make a great pair of dorm speakers or bedroom speakers, I think, because of the tiny footprint. I have no measurements, yet. Too busy listening to these and building others.
TABAQ in marble
Yay, I've just completed a single TABAQ speaker in 18mm black marble, using TB-871SC. Not stuffed properly or completely sealed yet, but already sounds great, and of course looks fantastic. Will post pics imminently.
For the first one, I just followed the standard design, modified for 18mm thickness, and rounded the front edges. I think I will alter the design for the second one, so that the front is a continuous sheet, with the joins on the sides, or use diagonal joins, etc.
Yay, I've just completed a single TABAQ speaker in 18mm black marble, using TB-871SC. Not stuffed properly or completely sealed yet, but already sounds great, and of course looks fantastic. Will post pics imminently.
For the first one, I just followed the standard design, modified for 18mm thickness, and rounded the front edges. I think I will alter the design for the second one, so that the front is a continuous sheet, with the joins on the sides, or use diagonal joins, etc.
Wait a minute... marble??? I salute you sir!
Where'd you source it? How much if you don't mind me asking did it cost ya?
Where'd you source it? How much if you don't mind me asking did it cost ya?
Hey all.
I'm nearing completion on my Tabaq's... although when I'll get another free day to play I do not know.
Serious question:
What's the preferred material for the batting? I've always built my speakers (all BR's) w/o batting as I'm a lunatic of sorts. So I don't know much.
Does the madisound stuff sound appreciably different from say... fire-resistant stuffing for cushions, or teased wool???
Basically I don't want to get these badboys all laced up and then have to open the box again. Lazy...
Also, I'm toying with the idea of using a nice bit of solid poplar for the front panels as it will give me a wood grain on the front without having to veneer. Is poplar too light/soft for an enclosure like this?
Thanks in advance
I'm nearing completion on my Tabaq's... although when I'll get another free day to play I do not know.
Serious question:
What's the preferred material for the batting? I've always built my speakers (all BR's) w/o batting as I'm a lunatic of sorts. So I don't know much.
Does the madisound stuff sound appreciably different from say... fire-resistant stuffing for cushions, or teased wool???
Basically I don't want to get these badboys all laced up and then have to open the box again. Lazy...
Also, I'm toying with the idea of using a nice bit of solid poplar for the front panels as it will give me a wood grain on the front without having to veneer. Is poplar too light/soft for an enclosure like this?
Thanks in advance
Hi Ray, yes indeed, black marble. Thanks for your comments, though not wholly deserved, as the marbLe work is being done professionally.
I am doing a stint in Asia at the moment, and the best option for a reasonable system was to bring just the drivers etc, and build the cabinets locally.
Per speaker, the marble was US$30 (just the cheap homogenous stuff, avoiding the fault lines, imperfections and grain-matching problems of natural marble), and labour another $30. I suspect I am paying at least double the local market rate for the labour, but this is not the shop's usual kitchen counter / garden table, and has taken quite a bit of their time to explain properly, and of course it's still a bargain compared to the same work back home.
So all in all quite a bit more expensive than for those builders who just happen to have a sheet of MDF, a couple of drivers, the right coils, a pair of Y-fronts, and 50' of rope "lying around, spare"., but the wife acceptance factor for these is high.
I will post some pics when the second speaker is done. I just followed the standard design for the first. Although it looks great, the shop's polishing machine can't match the factory prime-face finish on the sheet edges, so for the second speaker I have used diagonal joins etc, to hide the panel edges. The whole cabinet is totally solid and heavy, so I don't expect the different construction to change anything sonically.
BTW for the stuffing, I am just using polyester pillow/cushion stuffing, which looks identical to "sonofill" to me. No idea if it's optimal. I think the density is probably more important than the actual material?
Poplar sounds beautiful - I was toying with having a wood face and marble sides etc, but I know nothing about the acoustic implications of that, so stuck with a material that "doesn't move", as was recommended to me.
I am doing a stint in Asia at the moment, and the best option for a reasonable system was to bring just the drivers etc, and build the cabinets locally.
Per speaker, the marble was US$30 (just the cheap homogenous stuff, avoiding the fault lines, imperfections and grain-matching problems of natural marble), and labour another $30. I suspect I am paying at least double the local market rate for the labour, but this is not the shop's usual kitchen counter / garden table, and has taken quite a bit of their time to explain properly, and of course it's still a bargain compared to the same work back home.
So all in all quite a bit more expensive than for those builders who just happen to have a sheet of MDF, a couple of drivers, the right coils, a pair of Y-fronts, and 50' of rope "lying around, spare"., but the wife acceptance factor for these is high.
I will post some pics when the second speaker is done. I just followed the standard design for the first. Although it looks great, the shop's polishing machine can't match the factory prime-face finish on the sheet edges, so for the second speaker I have used diagonal joins etc, to hide the panel edges. The whole cabinet is totally solid and heavy, so I don't expect the different construction to change anything sonically.
BTW for the stuffing, I am just using polyester pillow/cushion stuffing, which looks identical to "sonofill" to me. No idea if it's optimal. I think the density is probably more important than the actual material?
Poplar sounds beautiful - I was toying with having a wood face and marble sides etc, but I know nothing about the acoustic implications of that, so stuck with a material that "doesn't move", as was recommended to me.
(Sorry if this is a dumb question) Anyone know the sensitivity for the tabaq's? Will a Peter Daniel lm3875 chipamp be too aggressive?
I recon around they will be about 82dB at 1 Watt.
Not very sensitive, so they need a bit of power. On the other hand they can not play very loud, so a lot of power will not be required. 20 Watt should be plenty.
SveinB.
Not very sensitive, so they need a bit of power. On the other hand they can not play very loud, so a lot of power will not be required. 20 Watt should be plenty.
SveinB.
They can't play very loud??? (Well, not that surprising really...)
I assume they can reach the kind of SPL that's considered "loud" in a small apartment though?
I assume they can reach the kind of SPL that's considered "loud" in a small apartment though?
Mine use 4" drivers, specified at 86db/w/m.
I power them from a 25W per-channel amp into 4 ohms, and don't use the baffle step filter in the design.
I would say they are well and truly loud enough for my small-ish loungeroom. I have only had them on full volume once, just to see where it gets to. I'm not someone who wants to listen particularly loudly however, but still want enough to block out most background noise and be immersive.
The drivers can apparently handle 40W, so I would estimate that with a more powerful amp they can be pushed further than what I am doing.
I power them from a 25W per-channel amp into 4 ohms, and don't use the baffle step filter in the design.
I would say they are well and truly loud enough for my small-ish loungeroom. I have only had them on full volume once, just to see where it gets to. I'm not someone who wants to listen particularly loudly however, but still want enough to block out most background noise and be immersive.
The drivers can apparently handle 40W, so I would estimate that with a more powerful amp they can be pushed further than what I am doing.
Ah, reassuring. I like to have to potential for loudness because I have to dual-use my speakers for movies and hifi as I have but a small flat. I find a good stomp through batman with the volume way up is always fun🙂
House hunting may be in the offing which means a workshop and a dedicated soundroom! WHHEEEE!!!
House hunting may be in the offing which means a workshop and a dedicated soundroom! WHHEEEE!!!
Well I took some pics today....
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Just something about this build, despite home depot cutting a few pieces incorrectly it's gone swimmingly well so far. I can't wait to hear them.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just something about this build, despite home depot cutting a few pieces incorrectly it's gone swimmingly well so far. I can't wait to hear them.
I haven't made the "tall" version, and it balances just fine with cheap rubber stick-ons on the bottom.
I have a cat, a dalmatian and a vizsla running rampant in my house and they haven't knocked it over yet -- despite some attempts.
Your photos look good. I would encourage you to try and recess the driver, so it's flush with the baffle. Also, if you can, do some work on the inside of the driver cutout so you get more air flow to the underside of the driver. Use a router with a 45 degree chamfer bit to scrape out some extra room between where the screws will go. This second part especially makes a very big difference to the sound, and the first part has positive effects especially in the higher frequency areas.
I have a cat, a dalmatian and a vizsla running rampant in my house and they haven't knocked it over yet -- despite some attempts.
Your photos look good. I would encourage you to try and recess the driver, so it's flush with the baffle. Also, if you can, do some work on the inside of the driver cutout so you get more air flow to the underside of the driver. Use a router with a 45 degree chamfer bit to scrape out some extra room between where the screws will go. This second part especially makes a very big difference to the sound, and the first part has positive effects especially in the higher frequency areas.