Hi loninappleton, the link is working fine. I have just tested it. I assume you have Adobe Reader installed.
Bjorn
Bjorn
hi bjorn, and co.
can someone post the dimensions for this speaker? looks really easy/cheap to build for a 1st time project. not sure how to read the adobe sheet specs.
thanks!
can someone post the dimensions for this speaker? looks really easy/cheap to build for a 1st time project. not sure how to read the adobe sheet specs.
thanks!
Bjohannesen said:
I see from the other recent remarks that other people are looking for this as well.
Please include the link in your next reply to this thread.
Still problems with slow loads. This does not show the measures
and 3d drawing from somewhere I still can't locate.
and 3d drawing from somewhere I still can't locate.
Svein_B said:
Many thanks. All I really needed was the the height. I had the
other dims in mind from the audioXpress artical I guess.
planet10 said:
Hi Dave,
Lots of arrows on the original drawing going every whichaway.
Can you give the _area_ of the port in cm? I'm doing a sample from
stock on hand and the way this MLTL will be finished off is with
a round port exiting the bottom. I'm using 2" inside diameter PVC.
loninappleton said:
From the diagram above 1,6 x 10 = 16 cm^2 = 2.48 in^2
your 2" ID will have area = 3.1416 in^2 so yours will need to be a bit longer.
dave
5.2" using a port calc i found on the web...
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#por
(0.365 ft^3 tuned to 59Hz)
dave
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#por
(0.365 ft^3 tuned to 59Hz)
dave
first listening test
Well, I I've gotten my TABAQ together with what minimal tools I have.
I used the port measure from above and stuffed about 3/4 of the line as shown in the pics.
This is a test build (as are most of mine) and one is completed to do a/b testing with my other stuff. The problem with the TB is it needs
more power to run than the high efficiency FE127e MLTL I have on the
other channel.
First concern I have is the amount of stuffing. I think I'm getting
a muffled sound which might be clarified with just putting some fiberfill
in the top above the driver.
I made one side removable with screws so I could play with this.
I have some billiard felt I could put on the back wall to tame any standing waves inside.
As with all my MLTL builds, acoustic instruments sound the best.
I'm going to push this little guy with some organ music.
Well, I I've gotten my TABAQ together with what minimal tools I have.
I used the port measure from above and stuffed about 3/4 of the line as shown in the pics.
This is a test build (as are most of mine) and one is completed to do a/b testing with my other stuff. The problem with the TB is it needs
more power to run than the high efficiency FE127e MLTL I have on the
other channel.
First concern I have is the amount of stuffing. I think I'm getting
a muffled sound which might be clarified with just putting some fiberfill
in the top above the driver.
I made one side removable with screws so I could play with this.
I have some billiard felt I could put on the back wall to tame any standing waves inside.
As with all my MLTL builds, acoustic instruments sound the best.
I'm going to push this little guy with some organ music.
Bjohannesen,
I built a similar speaker before reading this post. However, I am now struggling with the sound. I did not do any simulation. I just picked the dimensions based on various posts and info on the Internet. The dimensions of my speaker are 10 cm width (same), 17 cm depth (deeper), and 90 cm height (10 cm higher). I mounted the driver high (10 cm from the top). The slot port is similar in dimension. I used a single 4" TB 1320 driver.
The sound of the speaker is rather dry. Although the lower bass is good, the mid bass is very weak. Can I fix this by moving the driver down to 2/3 of the height? Or do I have to redo the whole thing?
My orginal idea is to make it a dipole speaker by mounting another driver on the back. Thus, the deeper depth. It also allow me to do without the BSM. However, the sound is so dissapointing that I need to fix it before mounting another driver. any thoughts will be helpful.
I built a similar speaker before reading this post. However, I am now struggling with the sound. I did not do any simulation. I just picked the dimensions based on various posts and info on the Internet. The dimensions of my speaker are 10 cm width (same), 17 cm depth (deeper), and 90 cm height (10 cm higher). I mounted the driver high (10 cm from the top). The slot port is similar in dimension. I used a single 4" TB 1320 driver.
The sound of the speaker is rather dry. Although the lower bass is good, the mid bass is very weak. Can I fix this by moving the driver down to 2/3 of the height? Or do I have to redo the whole thing?
My orginal idea is to make it a dipole speaker by mounting another driver on the back. Thus, the deeper depth. It also allow me to do without the BSM. However, the sound is so dissapointing that I need to fix it before mounting another driver. any thoughts will be helpful.
Hi Bing, I would recomend Martin J. Kings software and do the simulations instead of trial and error. During one night and can "build" several speakers with no woodwork. You soon get af feeling of what works and what does not. Using Martins software is very fun and educational.
You can then see what you have done, and what couldbe improved. Your probably have some dips causen by the design and/or influence of the room.
About the stuffing: It is rather heavy, but need to be so to thame the hight Qts of the driver and the relatively large volume of the cabinet (which is large to improve the deep bass).
But as always, stuffing should be adjusted to your room and your ears. You decide what is good and bad.
Hi from Bjorn
You can then see what you have done, and what couldbe improved. Your probably have some dips causen by the design and/or influence of the room.
About the stuffing: It is rather heavy, but need to be so to thame the hight Qts of the driver and the relatively large volume of the cabinet (which is large to improve the deep bass).
But as always, stuffing should be adjusted to your room and your ears. You decide what is good and bad.
Hi from Bjorn
not pleased yet
The combination of fiber fill above the driver and felt 3/4
of the back wall did not give the desired improvement in clarity.
I have removed the felt and kept the fiber fill where it was for another test. From my other MLTL build stuffing above the driver makes things
sound sharper if a bit shrill, but better than muddiness.
I didn't try the organ music yet. 🙂
The combination of fiber fill above the driver and felt 3/4
of the back wall did not give the desired improvement in clarity.
I have removed the felt and kept the fiber fill where it was for another test. From my other MLTL build stuffing above the driver makes things
sound sharper if a bit shrill, but better than muddiness.
I didn't try the organ music yet. 🙂
Hey loninappleton
Try Sonic Barrier from Parts Express.
I got a good improvement in clarity on my ELF T-B 871 speaker which originally had egg-crate foam.
Try Sonic Barrier from Parts Express.
I got a good improvement in clarity on my ELF T-B 871 speaker which originally had egg-crate foam.
chuck55 said:
Hi chuck,
The next step I did after trying the felt and fiber fill was to remove the felt and leave the fiber fill in the top of the line above the
driver.
It may be that I am spoiled from using the FE127e but I am still
not happy with the TB. I do this by listening and have no test equipment so I'm not looking at peaks and valleys and making a judgment on that basis.
Perhaps that electronic filter could change this. I'm getting past the idea that the TB can be helped by any more box changes or internal acoustic treatments.
A/B tests in this help a lot. I encourage people to do this
more which emphasizes the shortcomings of audio devices.
loninappleton,
I agree, the TB is not the most clear driver. I like it with a chip amp since the chip amp is pretty clear. No need for tubes with TB. Like I said the Sonic Barrier was better than egg crate foam and better than felt too. At least that would get rid of the internal reflections.
1 question I have:
How much power does this speaker need? Will a 20wpc chip amp be enough?
What do people here use to drive their TABAQ?
I agree, the TB is not the most clear driver. I like it with a chip amp since the chip amp is pretty clear. No need for tubes with TB. Like I said the Sonic Barrier was better than egg crate foam and better than felt too. At least that would get rid of the internal reflections.
1 question I have:
How much power does this speaker need? Will a 20wpc chip amp be enough?
What do people here use to drive their TABAQ?