I of course assembled the whole thing before realizing that would be a problem.
So, I made a pair of catch baskets out of plastic garden fence with thin hex web, folding the 4 edges upward to fit a square of the column inside dimension. I picked a catch depth, leaving about 1/3 of the bottom empty.
No way was I getting a squeeze handle staple gun down in there through the speaker cutout, so I tapped 4 small nails in from the outside for the basket to stop/rest on. Finish style nail, so I could easily cover the head with paint.
Not a great solution, but I was stuck in a "what else to do" predicament! Didnt want to saw a door opening in the back, just to mount the basket more properly.
So, I made a pair of catch baskets out of plastic garden fence with thin hex web, folding the 4 edges upward to fit a square of the column inside dimension. I picked a catch depth, leaving about 1/3 of the bottom empty.
No way was I getting a squeeze handle staple gun down in there through the speaker cutout, so I tapped 4 small nails in from the outside for the basket to stop/rest on. Finish style nail, so I could easily cover the head with paint.
Not a great solution, but I was stuck in a "what else to do" predicament! Didnt want to saw a door opening in the back, just to mount the basket more properly.
Stuck wads in makeshift cheesecloth bags suspended from the top or suspended a blanket of the desired density.
I've been lurking here for quite some time. I know someone has built a Tabaq out of 18mm plywood, I'm pretty sure it was for 5" speakers though. My question here is: Can just change everything on the design from 12mm to 18mm, keeping the internal dimensions the same? There would be a difference when you get to the port I guess? Will it be an issue?
No, not really. General rule of thumb is if you change a little, it only will impact the sound a little. Speaker building is quite forgiving, I find.
If you want to make the port smaller, you can just glue a ~6mm thick board along the port to make it "up to spec", but chances are, you won't hear any difference from a slightly larger port 😀
Hi Nicholas. Welcome here.
Bjorn's plans are based on 12mm thick material. You are correct in adjusting the measurements if using material of a different thickness, to preserve the internal measurements and it also affects the port length. As irishrOy said a few millimeters difference will probably not have a noticeable effect. I've used 15mm Birch plywood for 4" drivers. 18mm is an overkill, but if you already have the wood - go for it. 12mm MDF is perfectly fine for standard Tabaqs.
Which drivers are you thinking of using? Have fun and keep us posted.
Bjorn's plans are based on 12mm thick material. You are correct in adjusting the measurements if using material of a different thickness, to preserve the internal measurements and it also affects the port length. As irishrOy said a few millimeters difference will probably not have a noticeable effect. I've used 15mm Birch plywood for 4" drivers. 18mm is an overkill, but if you already have the wood - go for it. 12mm MDF is perfectly fine for standard Tabaqs.
Which drivers are you thinking of using? Have fun and keep us posted.
I will add to what they twocents said.
The important is the internal dimensions, csa or cross-section area. So, instead of measuring from the outside, measure from the inside.
The port will end up being 5mm too long.
0.5cm will not alter the tuning frequency that much, so I wouldn't worry about that. Or just adjust the length of the port.
And if it becomes a heartache, then just follow the original plan. The TABAQ will be tuned slightly higher, but it will be barely noticeable.
The choice of driver will matter more than that.
Cheers Twocents, as you know getting drivers at an affordable price here in SA is basically impossible. I'm looking at two chinese speakers that other users have recommended.
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EuIAMOD or https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EG7x5sh
For building Tabaq wih boards of different thickness I made this little block. A couple of them.
The block has the inner dimensions of the Tabaq. No more math.
Just make shure the front and back pieces are 100mm wide.
Then glue one side to front and back with block inside. The cutouts are for not gluing the block by accident.
Thickness of boards doesn´t matter, the inner dimensions are there with the block.
Remove the blocks and add the port and the rest.
The block has the inner dimensions of the Tabaq. No more math.
Just make shure the front and back pieces are 100mm wide.
Then glue one side to front and back with block inside. The cutouts are for not gluing the block by accident.
Thickness of boards doesn´t matter, the inner dimensions are there with the block.
Remove the blocks and add the port and the rest.
I used the second one for a friend's restaurant. It needed a small notch to sound good.
He liked them, but they are not the most resolving speakers. With the notch, it was balanced enough.
Trouble is you don't get much data with those Chinese made drivers.
The first one looks ok, but it seems very expensive for an unknown driver.
I bought the second one, with the copper ring. I had to measure them myself to see if they would be ok for the TABAQ.
Yes, that is partly true and you are going to pay a lot for shipping anyway, being from the USA, Europe, or China. Why spend a lot of money on shipping for cheap drivers? Rather add a little extra and get well known and tested quality drivers. I have used Madisound and Parts Express before. And even Digikey has some options. But I've been using this supplier lately:
https://www.soundimports.eu/en/peer...QgBwAiEQV-k0lUFxAXtN0SmvbplWE8LhoCVRsQAvD_BwE
I got my 4FE32 drivers from them about a year ago at a very reasonable price.
Hi, a question; if the port is 5mm to long (compared with the original drawings), will that result in a slightly higher tuning or a lower tuning? My initial belief was that it would result in a lower tuning frequency, but maybe im stuck i the principles of a bass-reflex?
No, you are absolutely correct and I must have had a brain fart! 🙂
Thanks for the heads up.
Must have been a post before coffee!
But in this case, it is splitting hairs. Even a simulation from Hornresp shows practically no change in bass output by changing the port to +5mm.
Thanks for the heads up.
Must have been a post before coffee!
But in this case, it is splitting hairs. Even a simulation from Hornresp shows practically no change in bass output by changing the port to +5mm.
Thanks for the confirmation.
BTW, you made me curious on Hornresp...can it simulate TabaQ MLTL successfully? If so, could you elaborate on the subjert?
BTW, you made me curious on Hornresp...can it simulate TabaQ MLTL successfully? If so, could you elaborate on the subjert?
Of course it can.
Since MJK files are not available anymore, and the LeonardAudio TL app has been archived, the best one and still being updated is HornResp.
I made a template of the TABAQ in it, so whenever I come across a driver I think could work or someone asks about how a particular driver would work in the TABAQ, I just plug in the driver's specs and get the response.
Gotta love the convenience of simulations, instead of the guess work!
Huge thanks to David on keeping HornResp alive and kicking! 🙂
Since MJK files are not available anymore, and the LeonardAudio TL app has been archived, the best one and still being updated is HornResp.
I made a template of the TABAQ in it, so whenever I come across a driver I think could work or someone asks about how a particular driver would work in the TABAQ, I just plug in the driver's specs and get the response.
Gotta love the convenience of simulations, instead of the guess work!
Huge thanks to David on keeping HornResp alive and kicking! 🙂
A very unfair question indeed Nicholas, since none of us have compared the two.
With regards to volume, the answer is easy - the KEFs will outperform the Tabaqs. The KEFs have much larger drivers, are more sensitive and can handle much more power (70W).
With regards to sound quality, the answer depends on a lot more, like the rest of your hifi chain and the kind of music you listen to. The Tabaqs might appeal more if you appreciate the finer things like a more natural midrange, big sound stage, and accurate imaging.
With regards to volume, the answer is easy - the KEFs will outperform the Tabaqs. The KEFs have much larger drivers, are more sensitive and can handle much more power (70W).
With regards to sound quality, the answer depends on a lot more, like the rest of your hifi chain and the kind of music you listen to. The Tabaqs might appeal more if you appreciate the finer things like a more natural midrange, big sound stage, and accurate imaging.
I had the Mission 700 series a while back (!), and I guess they could be related to the Kef here.
The Mission were better with big orchestral arrangement, as expected from a 2-way.
The TABAQ will be better with singer/songwriter style, but I pushed them with Daft Punk as well from time to time.
The Mission were better with big orchestral arrangement, as expected from a 2-way.
The TABAQ will be better with singer/songwriter style, but I pushed them with Daft Punk as well from time to time.
Well I built them and they sounded great! Thank you Bjørn for your assistance in customising this great design.
Sadly it is time to move the TABAQs on to a new owner so I am offering up these "short" versions for sale to one lucky buyer! It's been a great journey and experience building and using these amazing speakers. Thank you for all the inspiration and help on the forum.
I have listed the sale details on Ebay UK. I am open to offers on price, and viewing is available in Chichester (UK.)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/356122161155
Hello perceval,
I have TB W4-2142 ( https://www.tb-speaker.com/products/w4-2142 ) and I want to use it in a 2-way (crossing to the woofer at about 300-500 Hz). Do you know how to calculate it with flat impedance (aperiodic) ?
Thank you