Hi guys working on a T2500-1bdcp had 1 bad power supply fet. I have that clipped out and amp powers on but no output. Checked the class d regulators and was not getting and positive voltage so checked the positive regulator pin 2 and was getting 4 vdc. So I removed the bd card and my class d regulators are getting voltage. Checked for shorts on bd card but didn't find any. Any ideas?
Hi guys working on a T2500-1bdcp (board number 1325-55938-03) had 1 bad power supply fet(q1). I have that clipped out and amp powers on but no output. Checked the class d regulators(q2001, q2010, q2012) and was not getting and positive voltage so checked the positive regulator (u1000) pin 2 and was getting 4 vdc. So I removed the bd card (1325-55947-02) and my class d regulators are getting voltage. Checked for shorts on bd card but didn't find any. Any ideas
Do you have any 'canned air' or a FLIR imager?
Confirm that R9 doesn't have any broken solder connections or broken leads.
Confirm that R9 doesn't have any broken solder connections or broken leads.
This amp may not use R9. At some point, they moved the source for the SMD regulators to U1000.
Did you see one of the SMD regulator transistors heating more than the others when the class D driver board was in the circuit?
An IR thermometer may work if you can get a clear shot to the ICs on the driver board.
Does this amp have the CP driver board or the single driver board?
Did you see one of the SMD regulator transistors heating more than the others when the class D driver board was in the circuit?
An IR thermometer may work if you can get a clear shot to the ICs on the driver board.
Does this amp have the CP driver board or the single driver board?
R9 was a large resistor on the main board. If you read 0 ohms between U1000 and the center terminals of the SMD regulator transistors, this amp doesn't use the R9 I was referring to.
The canned air (dispensed with the can inverted) may be the easiest solution. If the driver board has a problem that's dragging the voltage down, freezing them with the liquid canned air and watching to see if one defrosts very quickly may be the easiest way to find the defective component.
The canned air (dispensed with the can inverted) may be the easiest solution. If the driver board has a problem that's dragging the voltage down, freezing them with the liquid canned air and watching to see if one defrosts very quickly may be the easiest way to find the defective component.
By smd regulators you are referring to q2000,2001,2010,2012? If so the collectors are directly driven from u1000
The best option that I've found so far are the Arduino jumpers. These are breadboard jumper wires. Searching eBay for Arduino breadboard jumper wires should get you good results. Be careful not to buy female-female or male-female jumpers. You want male-male jumpers.
I ran the amp for 5 minutes.
On the main board.
T2001 170*f. hotter by 20*f then t2000
Q2001 was at 160*f
Q2012 was 130*f
Q2000,q2010 was 95*f
On the bd card
U4 was 80*f
Q24 was 80*f
Every thing else was 73*f
On bd card grandaughter board
Q10 80*f
Everything else was 73*f.
On the main board.
T2001 170*f. hotter by 20*f then t2000
Q2001 was at 160*f
Q2012 was 130*f
Q2000,q2010 was 95*f
On the bd card
U4 was 80*f
Q24 was 80*f
Every thing else was 73*f
On bd card grandaughter board
Q10 80*f
Everything else was 73*f.
Was the voltage feeding the positive regulators still being pulled down to 4v?
If so, solder a jumper across C118 on the PS driver board. Does the voltage still get pulled down?
If so, solder a jumper across C118 on the PS driver board. Does the voltage still get pulled down?
With c118 jumped on ps card regulated voltage was 13.8v. Can I check output with that jumper on?
Not at the outputs but if you remove it and desolder the center legs on the rectifiers CR1, CR2, CR1004 and CR1005. you can check drive to the audio side FETs.
Before removing the jumper, check for drive pulses at the driver ICs U2000 and U2002.
Before removing the jumper, check for drive pulses at the driver ICs U2000 and U2002.
