Jason,
You're right, I am nuts.
Josh,
It's a JVC 52" HD-ILA. I haven't finished reading the manual yet.
Man you guys are fast.
Cal
You're right, I am nuts.
Josh,
It's a JVC 52" HD-ILA. I haven't finished reading the manual yet.
Man you guys are fast.
Cal
Member
Joined 2002
Cal Weldon said:
cool... HD-ILA probably the leader in the tech wars at the moment...that thing is tiny (in picture vrs all the rest of the TV sense) -- how much do those cost?
dave
True enough, but now I have to avoid the advertisements as it will only go down from here. 🙁
Which brings my $650.00 2 megapixel digital camera to mind
Well, I guess you have to buy at some time, nes pas?
Cal
Which brings my $650.00 2 megapixel digital camera to mind
Well, I guess you have to buy at some time, nes pas?
Cal
Member
Joined 2002
Ouch! I think i paid 400 WIth tax for my Canon A60. ANd got a 25x 128Mb compact Flash card for x-mas : O )
My next camera i want to be a Olimpus 8.1mp : O )
My next camera i want to be a Olimpus 8.1mp : O )
Member
Joined 2002
Cal Weldon said:
Mine was $1100 🙂 and so far worth every penny.... when it does die i look forward to only have to pay $400 for a better one.
and my $1100 DVD player -- now bested by $100 units.
The price of being an early adopter of any tech that involves computers.
dave
Member
Joined 2002
planet10 said:
You wont have to buy a new one your getting my A60 when i get my new camera..
J'
jleaman said:
Jason and Dave,
The sad thing is mine's a Canon A20. Shows how long ago I bought it hey? Came with an 8 meg card. The 64 that I bought to give me more was about $130 and the rechargeable 1700 mAh batteries were 11 dollars each.
Oh my Christmas this is hurting to relive, lets change the topic.
Watched Jurrasic 3 last night on the big sceen.
Ooooh Aaaaah... both picture and HT sound system are very good.
Cal
First post here. Recently built my first set of loudspeakers (well only have one built right now because the 1.1mH inductor from partsexpress went backordered) and I am quite pleased with the sound. So far I have only connected them to a very crappy jvc cd changer/amp I had lying around since I recently moved and sold my old amp gear. I am however getting a Jolida 102B tomorrow so I look forward to trying them on that.
I used a 4th order crossover design at 2Khz and a L-pad circuit to drop the tweeter 4 dB. I used the dayton silk dome tweeter and the dayton 7 inch aluminum woofer. the cabinet was prefinished from partsexpress and I used a plunge router and the jasper jig to flush mount the drivers.
http://gmd.shackspace.com/Speakers/crossover2.jpg
http://gmd.shackspace.com/Speakers/SpeakerComplete.jpg
I used a 4th order crossover design at 2Khz and a L-pad circuit to drop the tweeter 4 dB. I used the dayton silk dome tweeter and the dayton 7 inch aluminum woofer. the cabinet was prefinished from partsexpress and I used a plunge router and the jasper jig to flush mount the drivers.
http://gmd.shackspace.com/Speakers/crossover2.jpg
http://gmd.shackspace.com/Speakers/SpeakerComplete.jpg
My First DIY Project
Hello all,
For those who may be interested, I've just completed my open baffle speaker project, based loosely on Siegfried Linkwitz's PMTM1 plans on this page: http://www.linkwitzlab.com/proto.htm
The ingredients are:
2x Vifa P22 8.5" woofers
2x Vifa D26 1" soft dome shielded tweeters
650x280x70mm open-backed mdf "box"
2x sand-filled black speaker stands
2x combo 3rd/4th order xovers with filters (proved a bit complicated for a beginner like me, but result was worth it)
You can see it all here: http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/arcto/ if you are curious. As Aussie readers might notice, I bought a complete Jaycar JV80 speaker kit and "customised" it.
The original plan was to get hold of a 6 channel amp like a Panasonic XR40 or JVC FX10 and use active xovers, but this turned out to be too expensive. I belatedly found out that I can use the DSP of my Soundblaster Live to emulate an active crossover and EQ, but I didn't really want my computer in the signal path anyway.
I actually managed to build the things for under A$300, and they sound pretty good IMHO. I cross them over to my 10" DSE sub ($180 bargain) at ~100Hz because the dipole effect means the woofers roll off much earlier than in a normal box, but they are OK w/o the sub in small rooms. I've still got some testing to do but the current Xover sounds surprisingly decent.
The electronics in the last pic are my trusty rega brio amp and a pioneer PD-S801 stable platter cdp (I love legato link 🙂). I've tried a lot of more expensive bits, and keep coming back to these - whole system cost <A$1000!
//Adam F
PS the VAF DC-7 speakers in the last pic are now being retired - long live the open baffle!
Hello all,
For those who may be interested, I've just completed my open baffle speaker project, based loosely on Siegfried Linkwitz's PMTM1 plans on this page: http://www.linkwitzlab.com/proto.htm
The ingredients are:
2x Vifa P22 8.5" woofers
2x Vifa D26 1" soft dome shielded tweeters
650x280x70mm open-backed mdf "box"
2x sand-filled black speaker stands
2x combo 3rd/4th order xovers with filters (proved a bit complicated for a beginner like me, but result was worth it)
You can see it all here: http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/arcto/ if you are curious. As Aussie readers might notice, I bought a complete Jaycar JV80 speaker kit and "customised" it.
The original plan was to get hold of a 6 channel amp like a Panasonic XR40 or JVC FX10 and use active xovers, but this turned out to be too expensive. I belatedly found out that I can use the DSP of my Soundblaster Live to emulate an active crossover and EQ, but I didn't really want my computer in the signal path anyway.
I actually managed to build the things for under A$300, and they sound pretty good IMHO. I cross them over to my 10" DSE sub ($180 bargain) at ~100Hz because the dipole effect means the woofers roll off much earlier than in a normal box, but they are OK w/o the sub in small rooms. I've still got some testing to do but the current Xover sounds surprisingly decent.
The electronics in the last pic are my trusty rega brio amp and a pioneer PD-S801 stable platter cdp (I love legato link 🙂). I've tried a lot of more expensive bits, and keep coming back to these - whole system cost <A$1000!
//Adam F
PS the VAF DC-7 speakers in the last pic are now being retired - long live the open baffle!
Gmd,
I see there all of your inductors are flat against the circuit board. I think they ought to be perpindicular to eachother, otherwise they will interact with eachother. Capacitors work by storing energy in an electrostatic field (field of charge), inductors on the otherhand work by storing energy in a magnetic field and since all your inductors are facing the same way they will interact with one another. I'm not sure how much this will affect the response off your network but it may be worth making all inductors that are close to one another perpindicular to eachother, if possible.
Ace looking speakers though. Well done.
I see there all of your inductors are flat against the circuit board. I think they ought to be perpindicular to eachother, otherwise they will interact with eachother. Capacitors work by storing energy in an electrostatic field (field of charge), inductors on the otherhand work by storing energy in a magnetic field and since all your inductors are facing the same way they will interact with one another. I'm not sure how much this will affect the response off your network but it may be worth making all inductors that are close to one another perpindicular to eachother, if possible.
Ace looking speakers though. Well done.
Hi Arctophile. very nice work with your dipoles.
Whereabouts in Melbourne are you? I haven't heard dipoles apart from electrostatics, and would love to hear your work.
Contact me from my site email address if you're interested.
Cheers
David
www.gattiweb.com
Whereabouts in Melbourne are you? I haven't heard dipoles apart from electrostatics, and would love to hear your work.
Contact me from my site email address if you're interested.
Cheers
David
www.gattiweb.com
Inductor placement
Hi Arctophile,
I must concur with Depth Charge in that you should re-think the placement of the inductor coils in your x-over. Try placing them as far apart as possible and locating them at right angles.
I'm also in Melbourne and would be interested in listening to the open baffle design.......looks like you've done a nice job these anyway.
Cheers,
Keith
Hi Arctophile,
I must concur with Depth Charge in that you should re-think the placement of the inductor coils in your x-over. Try placing them as far apart as possible and locating them at right angles.
I'm also in Melbourne and would be interested in listening to the open baffle design.......looks like you've done a nice job these anyway.
Cheers,
Keith
Hello Phibes & David,
I think Depth Charge was referring to Gmd's inductors, but I suppose the advice applies equally to mine. Luckily for me I haven't bothered with a circuit board and can re-orient them quite easily. I would have thought my xovers were more spread out than most in commercial bookshelf speakers though!
The bad news is that the speakers are at my parents' house in Sydney because that is where the tools and space to build them were...I'm supposed to be back in Melb in May but I can't really see myself bringing the speakers on the plane, sorry guys 🙁
//Adam F
I think Depth Charge was referring to Gmd's inductors, but I suppose the advice applies equally to mine. Luckily for me I haven't bothered with a circuit board and can re-orient them quite easily. I would have thought my xovers were more spread out than most in commercial bookshelf speakers though!
The bad news is that the speakers are at my parents' house in Sydney because that is where the tools and space to build them were...I'm supposed to be back in Melb in May but I can't really see myself bringing the speakers on the plane, sorry guys 🙁
//Adam F