Thanks Aircirc 🙂. This is the DIY system, 2 way speakers Fostex, Gainclone power amp LM 3875 and Shigaclone.
175 SFR sonido in symmetrical dipole horn (back the same loaded as front)
Double custom made 300swc-16 Sonido in bass labyrynth.
First order filters below 200hz. 95-96 db/watt in all working diapason. Drivers are well damped, even with more than 100 watts - was no obvious distorsion increase as it always happens with conventional fullranger implementations.
For big rooms and big life-like sound did not hier anything better.
Double custom made 300swc-16 Sonido in bass labyrynth.
First order filters below 200hz. 95-96 db/watt in all working diapason. Drivers are well damped, even with more than 100 watts - was no obvious distorsion increase as it always happens with conventional fullranger implementations.
For big rooms and big life-like sound did not hier anything better.
Attachments
175 SFR sonido in symmetrical dipole horn (back the same loaded as front)
Dipole or bipole?
dave
Organized and cleaned space in bedroom to make a mini recording studio. Someone gave me their AV receiver, so I moved my old receiver to power the passive monitors in the little studio system. Went in closet and dusted off the Boston Acoustics VR20 small floor standers and plugged them in as monitors running full range. I wanted to use my CR75 book shelves, but they measured less flat. Grabbed the sealed 10" Sony Xplode
(free!) sealed sub and connected it to old yamaha sub amp. It is a speaker stand on the left side. I was using it as a secondary sub in my main system. I unplugged the crappy 8" woofer from the yamaha box, and use it as a speaker stand on the right side.
This won't sound any better until I get digital eq/dsp/crossover. Also, I am learning more about building passive crossovers and I hope to tweak all the speakers I have BEFORE eq'ing them. I have also not done any room treatments, yet.
This system sounds really good so far considering my extremely limited budget, and a lot of the stuff was old and used 😀 Only thing new is the ART USB Dual Pre interface/mic preamp.
I have lots of speakers and drivers to play with. I have measuring equipment now, so when I can start learning more about passive crossovers I will play around with different combos to see what I like best. I even have some old Fostex ribbon midranges and tweets to play with.
I have already redone my main system numerous times. So, this will be a second system to complicate my life 😀
So far, so good.

This won't sound any better until I get digital eq/dsp/crossover. Also, I am learning more about building passive crossovers and I hope to tweak all the speakers I have BEFORE eq'ing them. I have also not done any room treatments, yet.
This system sounds really good so far considering my extremely limited budget, and a lot of the stuff was old and used 😀 Only thing new is the ART USB Dual Pre interface/mic preamp.
I have lots of speakers and drivers to play with. I have measuring equipment now, so when I can start learning more about passive crossovers I will play around with different combos to see what I like best. I even have some old Fostex ribbon midranges and tweets to play with.
I have already redone my main system numerous times. So, this will be a second system to complicate my life 😀
So far, so good.
Attachments
Focal Raven DIY speakers.
System uses Krell Amps, Krell Preamp and Teac Esoteric CD player
Driver complement per channel:
1 Raven R-2 pure ribbon tweeter
2 Focal Audiom 7K- 7" Poly Kevlar cone midrange
2 Focal Audiom 15VX- 15" Polyglass cone woofers
System uses Krell Amps, Krell Preamp and Teac Esoteric CD player
Driver complement per channel:
1 Raven R-2 pure ribbon tweeter
2 Focal Audiom 7K- 7" Poly Kevlar cone midrange
2 Focal Audiom 15VX- 15" Polyglass cone woofers
Attachments
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A work in progress, should be done in the spring.
SEOS 24, BMS coaxial compression driver, AE TD-15M in a passive resistive cardioid enclosure, AE TD-15S in a stuffed 5ft^3 enclosure(Q=.5). CD has passive filters, the woofers are active. Coming soon is a rear firing 15" woofer with delay, to make the woofer section a cardioid too.
Dan 998, I think I would like to hear your system one day.
Dave, That must be a real kick *** combo. I know the single 126 driver is more than enough to drive my neighbours nuts. Is that the newest version of Bob's tweeter? If so I git to hear it in Al's MTM speaker in Chilliwack.
Face, my eyes are playing tricks on me. What mm lens is that?
Dave, That must be a real kick *** combo. I know the single 126 driver is more than enough to drive my neighbours nuts. Is that the newest version of Bob's tweeter? If so I git to hear it in Al's MTM speaker in Chilliwack.
Face, my eyes are playing tricks on me. What mm lens is that?
50, why? 😀 Kidding, it's a 14-24.Face, my eyes are playing tricks on me. What mm lens is that?
have you done DMT? I have, and boy that changed my complete life.50, why? 😀 Kidding, it's a 14-24.
Can't say that I have.have you done DMT? I have, and boy that changed my complete life.
Damn, all that art about it and still never tried?Can't say that I have.
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Cal - tweeters are LDX25s -I'm not sure we got a chance to hear the new tweeters in August. You're right, a pair of the VWRs in BLH produce prodigious amounts of bass for such a tiny cone
Hi,
By way of correction the tweeters were the LD25X which have been discontinued. At different budget levels either the LD22C/F or the RT2 could be substituted with the appropriate change in crossover.
Thanks Dave and Chris for the work.
Bob
By way of correction the tweeters were the LD25X which have been discontinued. At different budget levels either the LD22C/F or the RT2 could be substituted with the appropriate change in crossover.
Thanks Dave and Chris for the work.
Bob
either the LD22C/F or the RT2 could be substituted
The VT MTM would be the kit.
With the LD25X we compromised the optimal Zd of the VWR, the smaller D of the new LD22 helps here, RT2 is much bigger, making things worse.
It would be possible to add some deadspace between the 2 FH3 to compensate and a place to put the XO.
dave
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