Hornresp frequency response (not the last version)Hi all,
this is my current horn loaded 3 ways system. It is composed of RCF LF21X451 + "Myhorn", JBL 2441 + 2360A, JBL2404H
"Myhorn" is self made, composed of the main box (100 x 90 x 62) and a shelf supporting audio devices (250 x 36 x 62) only one side. It is still under construction, was designed with help of Ansys (still learning the acoustic module) and Hornresp; mesurements with REW
the measurement and hearing are very nice. The lower frequency going down to 20 Hz. The two horns perfectly matching in tone.
It is compression + bass reflex with 4 different length tubes (PVC pressure 4.5 mm thickness). There is a commercial phase plug increasing compression ± from 4 to 5. The horn curve is made of 2 x 9 mm panels. It is nor finished (see pics)
I could check that it is possible to avoid peak resonance with the different tubes 'easy to change)Active filters with 3 amplifiers and adjustment of levels (100 - 111 -105 dB 1W 1m).
The amplifiers will be raplaced by tubes, the 1st an ARC D115 (half 6550 tubes removed speakers connected to half they rated Z) View attachment 1233987
View attachment 1233986 View attachment 1233989 View attachment 1233990
Hi there,
continuation of
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/system-pictures-description.23208/post-7494561
added OB SW with 21inch in very´small OB, but for sure better LFE than without it
to keep the setup as close as possible as it was before adding the OB SW wired the lower 15 inch chassis L + R to the right channel in series and used only one additional cable to connect the left channel of the LFE amp to the 21 inch chassis and reconfigured the mixer of the miniDSP 2 X 4 HD that feed the LFE AMP and the Hypex FA 123 plate amps for the rest of the stereo setup with high position 15 inch + mid horn + super tweeter
continuation of
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/system-pictures-description.23208/post-7494561
added OB SW with 21inch in very´small OB, but for sure better LFE than without it
to keep the setup as close as possible as it was before adding the OB SW wired the lower 15 inch chassis L + R to the right channel in series and used only one additional cable to connect the left channel of the LFE amp to the 21 inch chassis and reconfigured the mixer of the miniDSP 2 X 4 HD that feed the LFE AMP and the Hypex FA 123 plate amps for the rest of the stereo setup with high position 15 inch + mid horn + super tweeter
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Hi Sir!
Saw you also run modulars with both Dynaudio and Revelators midd basses / mids. Which of these do you prefer from 120hz and up? Cheers!
The music side of my living room music. 2.1 stereo, as basic as I can get things sounding as I like. A vintage Pioneer turntable, tubed phonostage, and a tubed linestage, feeding a passive source selector, also connected to a streamer via a NOS DAC with 8 1543a paralleled chips per channel, to a line level cap highpassing a power amp, and a matching power amp with (for now) 70 hz line level FMODs.
I had been using some old Aerial 10 inch woofers for years with a plate amp, but these nominal 12" full ranges play bass deeper, have an 8.5mm linear X Max and a far higher qts. of 0.41.
The line level caps and small folded baffle combine to sum excellently with the H Frame bass bin, as long as I don't vary the satellites' placement much.
The FMODs are hit or miss; they are off by a figurative mile with a few other power amps I've tried them with here, but are very good with this one.
I think the almost a thousand watt old SPA 1000 is nothing fancy, and with its usual plate amp features has a lot of stuff in its signal path this arrangement eliminates.
I started out with a little 2311 volume control to set bass levels, but am happy enough not to need it.
After trials and comparisons for a few weeks, the pyramid foam was chosen, along with its shape and placement to limit mid and treble baffle reflections. At first I copied prototype baffles with two through holes for short pathing upper mid frequencies, but settled on plugging one with a knick knack, and the other with a 3/8ths thick bit of acoustic foam; a 12x12 square sheet of the same foam is hung from the top wing of each satellite to limit mid and treble frequencies before reaching the front wall to reflect.
To me this sounds more lifelike than any of my notch filter or active eq attempts to tame the open baffle dipole hump.
No rear firing tweeters were permanently tried with these, so they are not true dipoles.
The sweet spot is about 7 feet wide from about 15 feet away from the 9-foot apart pair, so that's a testament to Mark Fenton's excellent design and manufacturing of the 12P. All I've done with them is a couple of applications of some almost clear water based dye in an attempt to increase their qts. a little after moving on from a few cabinet speakers.
I had been using some old Aerial 10 inch woofers for years with a plate amp, but these nominal 12" full ranges play bass deeper, have an 8.5mm linear X Max and a far higher qts. of 0.41.
The line level caps and small folded baffle combine to sum excellently with the H Frame bass bin, as long as I don't vary the satellites' placement much.
The FMODs are hit or miss; they are off by a figurative mile with a few other power amps I've tried them with here, but are very good with this one.
I think the almost a thousand watt old SPA 1000 is nothing fancy, and with its usual plate amp features has a lot of stuff in its signal path this arrangement eliminates.
I started out with a little 2311 volume control to set bass levels, but am happy enough not to need it.
After trials and comparisons for a few weeks, the pyramid foam was chosen, along with its shape and placement to limit mid and treble baffle reflections. At first I copied prototype baffles with two through holes for short pathing upper mid frequencies, but settled on plugging one with a knick knack, and the other with a 3/8ths thick bit of acoustic foam; a 12x12 square sheet of the same foam is hung from the top wing of each satellite to limit mid and treble frequencies before reaching the front wall to reflect.
To me this sounds more lifelike than any of my notch filter or active eq attempts to tame the open baffle dipole hump.
No rear firing tweeters were permanently tried with these, so they are not true dipoles.
The sweet spot is about 7 feet wide from about 15 feet away from the 9-foot apart pair, so that's a testament to Mark Fenton's excellent design and manufacturing of the 12P. All I've done with them is a couple of applications of some almost clear water based dye in an attempt to increase their qts. a little after moving on from a few cabinet speakers.
Below is my latest build. It's actually a new pair of cabinets for speakers I built in 2010. At the time I had no woodworking tools or skills, so they were made of MDF with a vinyl veneer with sharp edges and the drivers were surface mounted.
The new cabinets 3/4" solid hickory on the front, top and bottom. Sides and back are Hickory-veneered MDF.
Drivers are all flush-mounted.
The side and top baffle edges are rounded with a 3/4" radius, as are the side-top edges. This is why solid wood on the front at top was necessary.
The mouth of the port is also rounded with 3/4" radius.
They sound about the same as they did in the old cabinets. Theoretically, I should get some improvement from the flush-mount drivers and the rounded edges. I'm not sure I can hear it. The new cabinets are all about cosmetics.
Drivers are a Vifa P17WJ-00-04 6.5" woofer and Scanspeak D2604 1" soft dome, which I don't think are available anymore.
I paid Madisound to design the crossovers for me.
The new cabinets 3/4" solid hickory on the front, top and bottom. Sides and back are Hickory-veneered MDF.
Drivers are all flush-mounted.
The side and top baffle edges are rounded with a 3/4" radius, as are the side-top edges. This is why solid wood on the front at top was necessary.
The mouth of the port is also rounded with 3/4" radius.
They sound about the same as they did in the old cabinets. Theoretically, I should get some improvement from the flush-mount drivers and the rounded edges. I'm not sure I can hear it. The new cabinets are all about cosmetics.
Drivers are a Vifa P17WJ-00-04 6.5" woofer and Scanspeak D2604 1" soft dome, which I don't think are available anymore.
I paid Madisound to design the crossovers for me.
They turned out well enough I wish I'd used hardwoods, but will keep them as is for the foreseeable future. They did afford me an opportunity to use 1/2" roundovers on one, while using another without them. There was a change, but not drastic at all. Certainly not enough to be noticed without seeking it.
Then again, the whole reason for me using open baffle stand mounts with an also open baffle sound was to lessen sidewall floor and ceiling reflection, and maybe much of the diffraction in mine were right in the baffles' perimeter- in their nulls.
I got much more change from about 7.5 by 10" pyramid acoustic foam on the fronts absorbing some midrange and treble baffle reflections.
Ah these reminds me of my first diy bookshelfs around the turn of the millennia, I really miss these drivers.
I used them with a 1" SEAS of some type I cannot remember, and the crossover was nothing but a cap on the treble and it sounded very good.
I had a smaller cabinet than you and a rear port and foamed front but I used them with a sub crossed at 80Hz.
Why did I get rid of them.
Found an old pic from a video
which post does this refer to please ?is it the open baffle with 21incb sub a few pages ago ?
Sorry, I did something wrong. It was meant as a reply to ByronInPortland and his hickory cabinet build.
@ByronInPortland
This is our Master Artist Signature Series, the Full Range Tower, designed and built in house. We designed these around the Raal 70 ribbon driver and matched it with the Accuton 7” ceramic cell midrange, we used the Accuton 8” cell woofers, we used Mundorf binding post with Kimber Kable 4tc internal wiring for the network. Parts (Including Goertz Copper Foil 12awg inductors on the woofer, ClarityCap CSA cap and Mundorf Copper Foil 16 awg inductors on the mid, and Mundorf Supreme EVO-Oil/ClarityCap CSA combo caps on tweeter, Mundorf MREsist Supreme resistors in all critical tweeter and midrange circuits). The cabinet are finished in black Porsche leather with real bubinga wood inlays, they play flat to 25hz and beyond 20khz, they are ported in the rear of the cabinets
This is our Master Artist Signature Series, the Full Range Tower, designed and built in house. We designed these around the Raal 70 ribbon driver and matched it with the Accuton 7” ceramic cell midrange, we used the Accuton 8” cell woofers, we used Mundorf binding post with Kimber Kable 4tc internal wiring for the network. Parts (Including Goertz Copper Foil 12awg inductors on the woofer, ClarityCap CSA cap and Mundorf Copper Foil 16 awg inductors on the mid, and Mundorf Supreme EVO-Oil/ClarityCap CSA combo caps on tweeter, Mundorf MREsist Supreme resistors in all critical tweeter and midrange circuits). The cabinet are finished in black Porsche leather with real bubinga wood inlays, they play flat to 25hz and beyond 20khz, they are ported in the rear of the cabinets
Hi there,
this is as far as i can see the opposite of DIY, this is a commercial build for resellers that will sell these kind of pair of loudspeakers for dozens of thousands of dollars, or not?
The Burmester amp that i can see in the photo is even more the complete contradiction to DIY, this amp costs a fortune...
I think i found the website, it's commercial, no DIY
https://www.avartistry.com/about-us/
this is as far as i can see the opposite of DIY, this is a commercial build for resellers that will sell these kind of pair of loudspeakers for dozens of thousands of dollars, or not?
The Burmester amp that i can see in the photo is even more the complete contradiction to DIY, this amp costs a fortune...
I think i found the website, it's commercial, no DIY
https://www.avartistry.com/about-us/
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