SURE BOARD
Hi,
I did most of modifications on my board and I must say I'm delighted with things I hear.
This little t-amp is much better than my standard NAD C352 amp. More details,more accurate bass and cleaner highs.
Also, my speakers are Quad 21L ,88db on 6ohm and t-amp can push it loud as hell 🙂
Power supply is from PC ,moded,with trimer to get 14V DC.
This is what I done :
remove c3 & c24
remove c13 & c21 ,bridge it
put trimmers as on JustBlair site,dc offset zero now...
remove speaker connectors,input connectors(both)
Mundorf M Cap audiophiler 2,2 uF - one side direct to the HQ input terminals,other side direct to the board
r8 & r14 replace with 10k
c9 c10 c18 c19 bypass with 4 Panasonic FC 82uF
c26-c31 removed,replaced with 2 Sanyo os-con SEPC caps 470 uF
removed d1
dc mod II as on JustBlair site
C8 C11 C17 C20 replaced with Wima 0,1uF
Added 2 Nichicon Muse audio grade 2200uF on power input (both sides)
Cooler for chip
Added EMI shielding folil near AC current wires
And that's all for now 🙂
Now,this IS a truly giant killer 🙂
What else to do? Well, I plan to replace inductors with toroid ones,and maybe air core someday...
Copper shileding for power supply...
And maybe play with some polystyrene caps for C7 & C16
I will add some pics when I get camera...
Best Regards,
Woody
SURE BOARD
Hi,
I did most of modifications on my board and I must say I'm delighted with things I hear.
This little t-amp is much better than my standard NAD C352 amp. More details,more accurate bass and cleaner highs.
Also, my speakers are Quad 21L ,88db on 6ohm and t-amp can push it loud as hell 🙂
Power supply is from PC ,moded,with trimer to get 14V DC.
This is what I done :
remove c3 & c24
remove c13 & c21 ,bridge it
put trimmers as on JustBlair site,dc offset zero now...
remove speaker connectors,input connectors(both)
Mundorf M Cap audiophiler 2,2 uF - one side direct to the HQ input terminals,other side direct to the board
r8 & r14 replace with 10k
c9 c10 c18 c19 bypass with 4 Panasonic FC 82uF
c26-c31 removed,replaced with 2 Sanyo os-con SEPC caps 470 uF
removed d1
dc mod II as on JustBlair site
C8 C11 C17 C20 replaced with Wima 0,1uF
Added 2 Nichicon Muse audio grade 2200uF on power input (both sides)
Cooler for chip
Added EMI shielding folil near AC current wires
And that's all for now 🙂
Now,this IS a truly giant killer 🙂
What else to do? Well, I plan to replace inductors with toroid ones,and maybe air core someday...
Copper shileding for power supply...
And maybe play with some polystyrene caps for C7 & C16
I will add some pics when I get camera...
Best Regards,
Woody
SURE BOARD
Did you listen to it much before / between executing the mods? I'm putting hourse on mine currently, burning it in. The highs are smoothing out...
I've got input caps waiting for it. I'm interested in the various thoughts on power-stiffener cap size, and the 'dual-mono' thing to separate the banks of power caps (as on justblair's site) sounds interesting as well. I put a heatsink on a previous t-amp and felt like it made an audible difference in available power / dynamics, but I haven't heard anyone else say anything about it...
Adam
I've got input caps waiting for it. I'm interested in the various thoughts on power-stiffener cap size, and the 'dual-mono' thing to separate the banks of power caps (as on justblair's site) sounds interesting as well. I put a heatsink on a previous t-amp and felt like it made an audible difference in available power / dynamics, but I haven't heard anyone else say anything about it...
Adam
Sounds good Woody,
I followed your advice and ordered a Sure board too.
I have to order some parts for the mods soon I guess.
Aad
I followed your advice and ordered a Sure board too.
I have to order some parts for the mods soon I guess.
Aad
AdamThorne said:
I didn't spend great time listening for standard mods,becuse this mods are wery well known and invastigating by many users.
But, for separating power supply ,I can confirm diference before/after. Low signal has improved,more tight bass with better definition.
Also, I played with rail caps and I can say that too much capacitance worsen the sound. For my ears,optimal is 470uF ,sanyo sepc cap.
If you hear some distortion on higher volumes,try to add extra capacitance,but add it on power conector on board (both sides if you do DC mod II )
As for the heat sink, I didn't hear some sonic difference,just have inner peace knowing that chip have extra cooling 🙂 anyway,my power supply 14V ,24A ,that's not insane 🙂
Try to play with output caps, very obviously difference.
@Aad
I'm glad you ordered board, because so little money for so many good sound 🙂
As for me, it's pleasure to play with that board,little happines with every new improvement,experimenting...
And in the end, I can honestly say that you will have amplifier that beats many budget amps in =>1000$ class.
I'm glad you ordered board, because so little money for so many good sound 🙂
As for me, it's pleasure to play with that board,little happines with every new improvement,experimenting...
And in the end, I can honestly say that you will have amplifier that beats many budget amps in =>1000$ class.
Hey Woody,
I got the Sure amp last Saturday. Did a quick test today and this one works. And way louder and better as the Evaluation board too. So the other one must have been a DOA. Haven't done any tricks yet. I'll let it sing for a couple of days and then do some surgery on C3 and C24 and check the offset. I have to look where I can get some parts here in the neighborhood or order them somewhere.
I think I need a new tip for my soldering iron too. I have a 15Watts Weller, but a smaller tip will be more convenient with these tiny smd parts. Did you find time to take some photos of your amp? It's always fun and nice to learn from what others did with their amp.
Kind regards,
Aad
I got the Sure amp last Saturday. Did a quick test today and this one works. And way louder and better as the Evaluation board too. So the other one must have been a DOA. Haven't done any tricks yet. I'll let it sing for a couple of days and then do some surgery on C3 and C24 and check the offset. I have to look where I can get some parts here in the neighborhood or order them somewhere.
I think I need a new tip for my soldering iron too. I have a 15Watts Weller, but a smaller tip will be more convenient with these tiny smd parts. Did you find time to take some photos of your amp? It's always fun and nice to learn from what others did with their amp.
Kind regards,
Aad
Update
First, I replaced stock inductors with toroidal ones,but something gone wrong. Some kind of distortion was present on high tones.
Then I go mad and wound air core inductors 🙂
Because I only have 0,80mm wire ,inductors are near 5cm high ,pretty big,with diameter of 1,5cm, 62 turns.
But now,sound is beautiful,warm and gentle. Just like on most tube amps. No problems at all 🙂
Well,on the downside,now I can't put cover on my amp case,inductors are too big 🙂
When I get the 0,5 mm wire ,I will wound another ones,it will be only 2,2cm high.
Here is the link on best air core calculator :
http://deepfriedneon.com/tesla_f_calchelix.html
I really recommend to all of you to go for it,it really one of the best upgrade on sure board.
Best regards,
Woody
First, I replaced stock inductors with toroidal ones,but something gone wrong. Some kind of distortion was present on high tones.
Then I go mad and wound air core inductors 🙂
Because I only have 0,80mm wire ,inductors are near 5cm high ,pretty big,with diameter of 1,5cm, 62 turns.
But now,sound is beautiful,warm and gentle. Just like on most tube amps. No problems at all 🙂
Well,on the downside,now I can't put cover on my amp case,inductors are too big 🙂
When I get the 0,5 mm wire ,I will wound another ones,it will be only 2,2cm high.
Here is the link on best air core calculator :
http://deepfriedneon.com/tesla_f_calchelix.html
I really recommend to all of you to go for it,it really one of the best upgrade on sure board.
Best regards,
Woody
I just love these nice sounding little amps!
Mounted one in my bathroom for the ceiling speakers.
It's kind of a plateamp on a linen cupboard.
pic from outside cupboard
pic from inside cupboard
And one under my computer desk for some small wall mounted car speakers.
Mounted one in my bathroom for the ceiling speakers.
It's kind of a plateamp on a linen cupboard.
pic from outside cupboard
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
pic from inside cupboard
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And one under my computer desk for some small wall mounted car speakers.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
just received arjen's ta2024 board. hook it up to testing speaker.
but dc offset on the speaker terminal measured -60mA on left channel and 17mA on right channel.
does it gonna hurt my speaker?
how to lower it?
i have do any mod yet. on test speaker it sound not bad tho. thx for the help
erwin
but dc offset on the speaker terminal measured -60mA on left channel and 17mA on right channel.
does it gonna hurt my speaker?
how to lower it?
i have do any mod yet. on test speaker it sound not bad tho. thx for the help
erwin
I recently removed R3, R16, C3 and C24 from Sure TA2024 board (v1.2).
DC offset on stock board was around 350mV and 30mV. After removing R3 and R16, offset is 100mV on both channels.
Removing C3 and C24 didn't make any noticeable difference.
(I measured the frequency response of the speakers with WM61A mic using MLS 3ms gate at 75cm distance.) I'm using buffered volume control (cmoy headphone amp to be exact).
DC offset on stock board was around 350mV and 30mV. After removing R3 and R16, offset is 100mV on both channels.
Removing C3 and C24 didn't make any noticeable difference.
(I measured the frequency response of the speakers with WM61A mic using MLS 3ms gate at 75cm distance.) I'm using buffered volume control (cmoy headphone amp to be exact).hi ttr
thanks for the help. but mine is arjen's board.
you can set it to zero on sure board by following justblair mod
http://www.justblair.co.uk/sure-tripath-ta2024-dc-mod-ii.html
anyone manage the dc offset on arjen's board? thx
thanks for the help. but mine is arjen's board.
you can set it to zero on sure board by following justblair mod
http://www.justblair.co.uk/sure-tripath-ta2024-dc-mod-ii.html
anyone manage the dc offset on arjen's board? thx
nice thanks
looking at the schematic for arjen boards, it uses 10uH inductor. according to the link few post above.
Diameter=10mm, number of turn = 106, using 1mm magnet wire. give 2uH. does anyone has the picture of self wind inductor? how does it wind? are they like loudspeaker inductor with multiple layer? or just single layer till it reach around 106mm in height? thx
looking at the schematic for arjen boards, it uses 10uH inductor. according to the link few post above.
Diameter=10mm, number of turn = 106, using 1mm magnet wire. give 2uH. does anyone has the picture of self wind inductor? how does it wind? are they like loudspeaker inductor with multiple layer? or just single layer till it reach around 106mm in height? thx
hand made inductors
Hi milen007
Yesterday I made these inductors of 0,8 mm wire on a 6mm diameter nylon screw core.
3 layers of 17mm long.
Souns very good!!
I first experimented a bit before I came up with this design.
There is a nylon washer on both end of the coil, and the length was adjusted with a nut. An extra nut to lock the distance et. voila.
It took me 2 hours to do the whole trick.
Next time I will use a wood core and make a small hole in it. Then you have a solid starting point. an other hole at the desired length and you can start winding much faster by turning the wooden core around.
Peter
Hi milen007
Yesterday I made these inductors of 0,8 mm wire on a 6mm diameter nylon screw core.
3 layers of 17mm long.
Souns very good!!
I first experimented a bit before I came up with this design.
There is a nylon washer on both end of the coil, and the length was adjusted with a nut. An extra nut to lock the distance et. voila.
It took me 2 hours to do the whole trick.
Next time I will use a wood core and make a small hole in it. Then you have a solid starting point. an other hole at the desired length and you can start winding much faster by turning the wooden core around.
Peter
Attachments
Millen007 Wrote:
does anyone has the picture of self wind inductor? .
Dont know which of Arjens boards you have but I have fitted 11uH inductors wound on Micrometals T68-2 cores as per photo showing these on a TA-2020 Board. I have also fitted the same inductors to one of Arjens TA-2024 boards with less spectacular results
The stock inductors on his TA-2024 boards are better than those fitted stock on the Ta-2020 board.
Once modified however I by far prefer his TA-2020 board. This was confirmed tonite by 3 people when we did some tests driving top of the range Evo Pacific Wharfedales.
Tripath Recommend Amidon T690-06 or Micrometals T68-2 cores which I used, 44 turns of 24 gauge wire gave me 11uH & that is about Ideal as the core will hold 46 turns in 1 layer.
These cores are available from Dieter @ http://kitsandparts.com/
Paul
does anyone has the picture of self wind inductor? .
Dont know which of Arjens boards you have but I have fitted 11uH inductors wound on Micrometals T68-2 cores as per photo showing these on a TA-2020 Board. I have also fitted the same inductors to one of Arjens TA-2024 boards with less spectacular results
The stock inductors on his TA-2024 boards are better than those fitted stock on the Ta-2020 board.
Once modified however I by far prefer his TA-2020 board. This was confirmed tonite by 3 people when we did some tests driving top of the range Evo Pacific Wharfedales.
Tripath Recommend Amidon T690-06 or Micrometals T68-2 cores which I used, 44 turns of 24 gauge wire gave me 11uH & that is about Ideal as the core will hold 46 turns in 1 layer.
These cores are available from Dieter @ http://kitsandparts.com/
Paul
Attachments
hi ZL2BPS
the one i have is ta2024. just hook it up. sound not bad. going to mod it.
about arjen's ta2020. what kind of mod have you done? do you have any chance to compare it with charlize from diyparadise? charlize got rave of review. but i need to confirm that my beloved diy speaker will be able to drive by the ta2024 that has 10w. and now it prove this small baby has the power. hence i might looking for better option. and charlize is one.
looks like arjen has new ta2020. wondering how it sound?
what kind of mod have you done to ta2024? as some prefer ta2024 over ta2024.
hi Lostcause
thats very helpful. try to search yest but to no avail.
hi peterhenk
nice one. will try that. wood and nylon core is available locally. i need to ship over the ferrite core tho. but will try the wood core 1st. thx for the tips
erwin
the one i have is ta2024. just hook it up. sound not bad. going to mod it.
about arjen's ta2020. what kind of mod have you done? do you have any chance to compare it with charlize from diyparadise? charlize got rave of review. but i need to confirm that my beloved diy speaker will be able to drive by the ta2024 that has 10w. and now it prove this small baby has the power. hence i might looking for better option. and charlize is one.
looks like arjen has new ta2020. wondering how it sound?
what kind of mod have you done to ta2024? as some prefer ta2024 over ta2024.
hi Lostcause
thats very helpful. try to search yest but to no avail.
hi peterhenk
nice one. will try that. wood and nylon core is available locally. i need to ship over the ferrite core tho. but will try the wood core 1st. thx for the tips
erwin
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