Sure Electronics Tripath boards?

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#545
Hi Paul,

As i had done following with yr instruction, it's really good and it's work quite well but not that long. After a while, the right speaker got some noise and after that it shut down, no more voice coming out from that. Then i had checked the meter and others things same as the attached photo. What should i do about this and how to make sure that this will not happen to me again? Could you please give me some advice or any suggestion for me please.
Thank you so much for your kindness^^
 

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#546
Thanks Arjen, I received the boards I bought off you a few days ago. Unfortunately i'm moving house at the moment so won't get a chance to play with them for a couple of weeks!

Just a heads up for any UK people, there are some 5V/12V skynet SMPS supplies on ebay at the moment for around £20 a pair. Perfect for these t-amps!It also has two +12V lines so it may be possible to run a couple of boards off one supply.

Has anyone tried to change the inductors on these boards yet? They are pretty much the only smd component that hasn't been replaced from what I can see in the thread. I haven't managed to find any aircore inductors in the value required but do have some enameled copper that I could knock some up with.
 
#547
Varisign.

I cannot read the scale on your meter but believe you are indicating you have 34mV DC Offset on the left channel which is about correct & 1.288 V on the right channel which is way too much . Is that correct & what was the DC offset when you started ??
What mod's have you done & what are the large white item's in the bottom of your photo, are they your new input capacitors ?? They look to be too large to be soldered reliably to the board Pad's & should be mounted elswhere ie between the sweeper of your pot & the input to the board.
Is only the right channel not working ?? Is the left channel OK ??

Go over your work & look for solder bridges, anything shorting out, broken or lifted track's & check all your components against the circuit diagram.
It's a bit hard to diagnose your problem from 6,000 miles away.

Paul
 
#548
phresh said:
Just a heads up for any UK people, there are some 5V/12V skynet SMPS supplies on ebay at the moment for around £20 a pair. Perfect for these t-amps!It also has two +12V lines so it may be possible to run a couple of boards off one supply.
Click to expand...

I can vouch for the ebay vendor. I have had 5 of those skynets off of him, no probs at all. I have probably got his email, if you are prepared to go outside ebay.

Nick at Decibel dungeon used them on a T amp and was very happy with the result as I recall.

Be aware that it is recommended that you place a load resistor on the 5v line with this smps. The circuit is regulated on the 5v line.

Saying that I have used 4 on my 4 channel gainclone without failures. Though I get the odd click through the system that I wouldn't like to say is unrelated.

I use the other one to power my DDDAC

I opted for one of the higher powered Sure 12v supplies for the boards. The specs are the quoted same for load regulation and ripple. However the SMPS supplied by Sure has an adjust resistor which gives you a +/- 10% adjustment to the voltage. So you can get 13.2v out of the thing. That and the removal of the protection diode should give the higher voltage that others have said is beneficial to the sound.
 
#549
I have applied these mods:

C21 & C13 replaced with 2.2uf caps

C3 & C24 removed.

R3 & R16 replaced with 1M ohms.

R1 replaced with 27k resistor and R18 replaced with 33k resistor (this lowered the dc offset to under 20mV on both channels I used a trim pot to found the right values)

Two 4700uf 25V caps added on rails.

What will removing and bridge D1 do?

I think removing C3 and C24 was the biggest improvement. It really opened up in the hights. I was so pleased with it so I decided to build a case for it.

And no. My intention was not to design the case to look like the war ship monitor, it just came out that way 🙂
 

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#550
h@kan said:
I have applied these mods:

C21 & C13 replaced with 2.2uf caps

C3 & C24 removed.

R3 & R16 replaced with 1M ohms.

R1 replaced with 27k resistor and R18 replaced with 33k resistor (this lowered the dc offset to under 20mV on both channels I used a trim pot to found the right values)

Two 4700uf 25V caps added on rails.

What will removing and bridge D1 do?

I think removing C3 and C24 was the biggest improvement. It really opened up in the hights. I was so pleased with it so I decided to build a case for it.

And no. My intention was not to design the case to look like the war ship monitor, it just came out that way 🙂
Click to expand...

A breadboard having an erection. Nice one!

😀 😀 😀 😀 😀

Seriously, removing D1 will only slightly increase the voltage. It's not worth it, that diode protects the chip against polarity inversion, You'd better leave it in place...

OK, OK, I know you meant that it looks like a tank, but I realized that only on a second thought😀
 
#551
very stylish - I like it!

I didn't get how you could fit all that wood around the board, the top left picture doesn't really show it. Did you mill the inside of the board or is it mitered slats you have for the side and back panels? Could you post more pictures please?
Also I'm curious whether there is anything under the turret.

Cheers

PS: I read the monitor was a swedish design too - must be genetic

Monitor_model.jpg
 
#552
justblair said:
I opted for one of the higher powered Sure 12v supplies for the boards. The specs are the quoted same for load regulation and ripple. However the SMPS supplied by Sure has an adjust resistor which gives you a +/- 10% adjustment to the voltage. So you can get 13.2v out of the thing. That and the removal of the protection diode should give the higher voltage that others have said is beneficial to the sound.
Click to expand...

The Skynet modules do appear to have a varistor near the output. Not had a chance to fire them up yet but when I do i'll see if it effects the voltages at all.
 
#555
ZL2BPS said:
Varisign.

I cannot read the scale on your meter but believe you are indicating you have 34mV DC Offset on the left channel which is about correct & 1.288 V on the right channel which is way too much . Is that correct & what was the DC offset when you started ??
What mod's have you done & what are the large white item's in the bottom of your photo, are they your new input capacitors ?? They look to be too large to be soldered reliably to the board Pad's & should be mounted elswhere ie between the sweeper of your pot & the input to the board.
Is only the right channel not working ?? Is the left channel OK ??

Go over your work & look for solder bridges, anything shorting out, broken or lifted track's & check all your components against the circuit diagram.
It's a bit hard to diagnose your problem from 6,000 miles away.

Paul
Click to expand...

Hi Paul!!

Thank you so much for your reply. Your understanding is correct!! You said everything right for what i have done. I had made it following from your photo. The white one is mundof 3.3uf. Right now i had correct it till the small plate broken. This is the second board that i had destroyed it 🙁 I think board of Arjen will easily mod than this surelectronic board :bawling:
 
#556
Hi all,

This is my first post. (Trying to get off being moderated so I can email Arjen for his price list)

I've been reading this and other T-amp threads with great interest. I have quite a few flavours of T-amp's at home - Trends TA10.1, YuLong, Little Dot, SI and now the Sure board, which I have yet to try.

I'd like to thank you all for the mod ideas for the Sure, can't wait to try them.

Must say all flavours of T-amps I've tried sound great.

It seems some here have a problem with one channel going faulty after modding!? Funny, but my original Trends TA10.1 developed the same problem after moderate use over a year or so. The left channel failed, then returned the next day only to fail permanently. I hadn't touched this amp at all so it failed on its own. Unfortunately, I never checked the voltage offset on the failed channel.

I wonder if this fault is just something that happens to individual Tripath chips at various times. Must say Trends Audio were great, although the amp was over a year old they replaced it and paid the return postage to Australia. Maybe I should ask them if they know what went wrong with my amp.

Oh, and those of you using buffers between your pot and amp, would you recommend it as a worthwhile upgrade?

Thanks again for all the great late night reading!

Simon (Australia)

PS. If you haven't tried it yet, the next great 'cheap' upgrade is to play high quality ripped WAV/AIFs out of your PC straight into your T-Amp using one of the many external USB D/A convertors available from China.
 
#557
I have been looking for a case to my amp and want something that look like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Projec...oryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

But the guy doesn't ship to Sweden. I have searched ebay and google for alternatives with no luck. Anyone that has any ideas where to find one? The one I linked to would be perfect considering price, look and size. Because the length needs to be 200mm or more.
 
#559
perco said:
I have been looking for a case to my amp and want something that look like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Projec...oryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

But the guy doesn't ship to Sweden. I have searched ebay and google for alternatives with no luck. Anyone that has any ideas where to find one? The one I linked to would be perfect considering price, look and size. Because the length needs to be 200mm or more.
Click to expand...


I got something similar from Asia Engineer.

Asia Engineer Ebay Shop

Though it was not anodised, just Raw alu
 
#560
perco said:
I have been looking for a case to my amp and want something that look like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Projec...oryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

But the guy doesn't ship to Sweden. I have searched ebay and google for alternatives with no luck. Anyone that has any ideas where to find one? The one I linked to would be perfect considering price, look and size. Because the length needs to be 200mm or more.
Click to expand...

This is the one I used (mod. GX283), it's pretty solid and high-quality. BTW, it's also MADE IN ITALY like Ferrari and Armani suits 😀

http://www.modu.it/galaxyeng.html

http://www.modushop.biz/ecommerce/cat037_l2.php?n=1

Vista_frontale_galaxy.jpg
 
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