Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050

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#221
audio1st said:



Hello, Yes you remove C25 and C17 and connect as on the right in the picture, replacing C24 and C16.

I removed the voltage limiters because they limited the treble in my case. If you find the treble OK or bright, you could leave them in place.
Click to expand...
Okey, thanks alot for your help! Ill start replacing them, and ill report what happened 🙂
 
#223
whelibob said:

Done succesfully. Im really suprised with myself, I didnt brake anything. It improved the low notes alot, thanks alot everyone for your tips!

😀
Click to expand...

Hi Whielibob
i just get my board and i don't really "know" electricity ,i just have good hands
can you please upload a pic of your final results sometime ?
it can help a lot 🙂
thanks
gooday ya all
 
#224
Input Cap replacement

I have been scared off of destroying my board by my flimsy attempt to mod it. But a successful input cap replacement by whelibob has given me some courage to try myself finally.

But I have two "technical" problems at the moment.

How do I "remove" the small SMDs (C25, C17)? Any tips on doing some kind of precision surgical removal?

I got a pair of WIMA MKP10 (2.2uF, 250V) but they are a lot bigger than the size of C24, and C25 that they are going to replace.

What's the best way of putting the MKP10s to the board with minimum effort?
 
#225
Further to my previous post on input cap replacement, my WIMA MKP10 capacitors have legs which are only half a centimetre long and the two legs are almost 3 cm apart!

I think I need to put some wires to "extend the legs" and connect the other ends of the wires to the holes where C24 and C25 are connected. And then somehow make the caps "stay still".

I would appreciate any tips and suggestions on how to replace my input caps.
 
#226
Don't forget to upgrade the heatsink as well.
Pentium 4 heatsink chopped:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Fit's nicely:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


The module on the photo is the broken one, still waiting for the replacement.
 
#227
sayang001 said:
Don't forget to upgrade the heatsink as well.
Pentium 4 heatsink chopped:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Fit's nicely:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


The module on the photo is the broken one, still waiting for the replacement.
Click to expand...

what did u use to "glue" the heatsink to the chip?

gychang
 
#230
audio1st said:
I simply added a couple of pieces of bent ally to the fins of the heat-sink. This lowered the temp by 10 degrees C..
Click to expand...


what "compound" did u use to hold the ally to the fins?, some sort of glue? I am unsure how people put heatsink on a chip when there are no clips or screw holes.

gychang
 
#232
Re: Input Cap replacement

swkbkk said:
I have been scared off of destroying my board by my flimsy attempt to mod it. But a successful input cap replacement by whelibob has given me some courage to try myself finally.

But I have two "technical" problems at the moment.

How do I "remove" the small SMDs (C25, C17)? Any tips on doing some kind of precision surgical removal?

I got a pair of WIMA MKP10 (2.2uF, 250V) but they are a lot bigger than the size of C24, and C25 that they are going to replace.

What's the best way of putting the MKP10s to the board with minimum effort?
Click to expand...
I used small pliers and a soldering iron to remove those small SMD's.

If you have a wide WIMA capacitor, i would just use some sort of extra wires to make the legs reach the hole.

Here are some poor pics of the modding:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/DSC00188.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/DSC00189.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/DSC00191.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/DSC00194.jpg

The fan spins a bit too fast since its connected to 24Volts. Need to reconnect it with 12Volts so it is silent.
 
#234
Thanks for the photos whelibob. That makes it clearer, I think I'll be able to figure it out from that.
Also Rik, I'd like to see your setup as well, would you mind posting some photos? I'm also thinking of attaching a 12V fan to the 5V output to keep it quiet.
Could anyone post some detailed photos of the Zobel components? They seem to be missing from the latest models.

Also, is there any benefit from a cap on the input rail?

Keep up the great work, it's a fun project to work on.
 
#235
#238
riktw said:
if you connect the fan to the 5V its really silent😉
but i use an 12cm fan with 5V, dont know if a small fan cools enough at 5V
Click to expand...
I probably did something wrong when i connected my fan to 5V, because the amp muted 😀 Can you show where exactly you got the 5volts?

Ah im really stupid. I should ground it somewhere else then into the mute 🙂
 
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