Wow...This Thing is a No Brainer...Mine just came from HK...I bought it on Wed Nite the 14th for $39..It arrived on Fri. the 23thrd....Right after the Power Supply..HP A/C POWER ADAPTER D135 D145 7110 7130 C7296-60024 $12...Right out of the box, they both work Great! The Sure comes with It's Own Power Input Plug that I soldered to a DIY Jack for the HP Supply and Bingo...We're Playing as Loud as My ST70...I just Re-Wired my Pre-amp to have One of it's un-used Inputs to be Fed from it's 10K Alps Pot as an Output..So now I don't turn the Pre-Amp's Power on and it works Great into the Sure..I will let it Burn In for a while before I start doing the Cap Thing...But till then...This HP Supply seems to Really do the Trick @ 31.5V 3.17A...Oh...And when you call these 'Bricks'...Well this One Really is a Brick...It's a Big Boy...
Alrighty Now....Here's a Biggy that I have not yet seen talked about all that much around Here....What's the Deal with Driving a Tk2050 from a Pre-Amp with the Power On?...They say not to do this in the Manual...But I'm doing it now....And it Really Sounds Good....And, I have the Board set on 'High'..Does anybody else just do this?
Last edited by sled108; Today at 03:02 AM.
Last edited by sled108; Today at 03:02 AM.
Not completely ultimate, you have to extend your signal cable
Only if you place your volume control on each speaker, it will be ultimate
(or switch to balanced cables, but i hear they are not THAT ultimate)
The input sensitivity of TC2000 is 1.5V - above this clipping happens. Preamps are able to output voltages far greater than this.
But if they put out more than 1.5V it will be very very loud, so you will probably turn down the volume on your preamp long before it reaches that.
Input limit of TC2000
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The 2X100 can sound really good on any of the gain settings. I run mine on low which happens to give the perfect volume for running straight in from my dac with only a slight amount of digital volume control.
The TC2000 has a limit of 4v for the maximum input level. Unlike opamps that can accept 12v and then just clip, anything above 4v can cause the chip to fry. The 2X100 boards come with a limiter soldered across the input terminals to protect it. If you remove this (as most of us do) and turn the amp on with the volume knob of an active pre cranked by mistake, you can blow the amp. Just be careful as you normally would be about cranking the volume knob beyond any normal listening level and it will be no problem.
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The 2X100 can sound really good on any of the gain settings. I run mine on low which happens to give the perfect volume for running straight in from my dac with only a slight amount of digital volume control.
3886? Anybody
Does anybody here also have a 3886 chip amp? I like the TK2050 better but would be interested to have you post your comparisons on the other thread.
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/165556-2-100-watt-4ohm-tk2050-lm3886-gain-clone.html
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They have a blind devotion to the 3886 in the chip amp forum.
Does anybody here also have a 3886 chip amp? I like the TK2050 better but would be interested to have you post your comparisons on the other thread.
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/165556-2-100-watt-4ohm-tk2050-lm3886-gain-clone.html
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They have a blind devotion to the 3886 in the chip amp forum.
Yes I am using a Bryston BP-25 pre with the sure and it sounds great. I have left the limiter in place for added protection. As Sendler stated, keep the volume dial on the pre fairly low and it won't be a problem. The manual recommends the lowest gain setting for use with a pre-amp and even with that, the volume is set very low in comparison to my other amps.
The LM3886 gain chip amp design is a minimalist expression for driving a complex loudspeaker. This was the explanation provided by the renouned Japanese engineer who came up with it. I understand LM3886 puts out 40W RMS and sounds like a valve amp according to audiophiles.
It does make a bit more heat, and this is where the single chip heads are missing the point. Class-D is way more efficient and brighter, holding nothing back, while tube-tuned audiophiles are looking for "warmth".
It does make a bit more heat, and this is where the single chip heads are missing the point. Class-D is way more efficient and brighter, holding nothing back, while tube-tuned audiophiles are looking for "warmth".
Looks nice! I'm thinking about something similar.
No volume pot, you adjust volume digitally?
Whilst on the subject of 'Warmth', I find these D-Class amps too spiteful in the treble for my ageing tinnitus plagued ears. And the higher resolution and detail of the input caps makes things even worse for me........ Its almost as if they are letting through ultrasonics that cause my ears to clamp down within minutes, very frustrating.
I have noticed a number of Valve line buffers from China on ebay, and was wondering if anyone here has heard any of these units ? I bought the original Musical Fidelity X10-D v1 when it first came out in the 90's and only recently sold it because it no longer made any difference, even with replacing the valves. Musical Fidelity themselves now offer an upgrading clinic (so they can double their money again ?) by replacing the components with new ones, but the asking price was way too high and hence why I sold it.
YAQIN CD2-6J1 Tube Signal Upgrade CD Buffer Processor on eBay (end time 27-Apr-10 23:29:07 BST)
Teamacc - the only thing ebay threw up for ST517 chip was a yellow road sign warning of a deer crossing !
DEER CROSSING 5.0" color car bumper sticker decal ST517 on eBay (end time 05-May-10 19:10:20 BST)
I have an OB with an Alpair 10 on top and an Alpha 15 in an "H" baffle below; active c/o @150hz. I drive the 10's with a Winsome Mouse and the Alpha's with one of Peter's 3875 "minimalist" GC's. I recently decided to go active with amps and crossovers mounted behind the baffle on the shelf of the "H". In the transition I swapped the amps out of curiosity and found myself liking the 3875's more than the Mouse. As Barbieboy noted, the "D" amps have a somewhat annoying high end while the GC's are softer without a loss of accuracy----! I also feel that the 3886 is not as good as the 3875, more power yes, but less quality of sound.
Just my 2c,
Pete
Just my 2c,
Pete
😀 Very good
It takes careful searching to find this rather new chip. Though it is from ST Electronics, the full name of the chip is STA517B.
How long this board can run on 12V battery driving 15" bass speaker with some EQ. Could it work?
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