from everything i've been reading, more voltage = more power. i'm trying to get the most out of these amps and both versions seem to take up to 26v. however, i could be misguided, so i'd wait til someone else chimes in before buying something
SQ Kid said:
Yep you are corrent it will give more output at 26v, unless you are driving 2 or 1 ohm loads with a lower supply voltage.
Basically this amp is similar to a pre-made 41hz amp9 kit, so all the things like paralleling work with this amp.
Well, you might want to
- use the short answer of what's recommended, up to 26V and 12A (for 4 channels - 6A would seem enough for 2 channel) which fits with comments made so far, quoted below. More amps is probably OK; more volts is not.
- as far as a supplier, read some of the comments on the Sure power supplies in the thread, they seemed positive IIRC. There are some others mentioned in this forum if you search on SMPS
Maybe review these quotes from above posts, while you're waiting for a specific answer:
That calculation is per channel, and IIUC the amperage increases with more channels. That is, if each channel is at about 60 W at 24V and 4 ohms - then Amps = Watts/Volts or 60/24 = 2.5 or round up to 3A per channel - that gives you 12A with a little cushion included (if you are using 4 ohm speakers or might be)
So just plugging Saturnus' math gives these kinds of results. Twi big things to note:
- You'd have to allow for lower realized voltage in the math to allow for Ourobourus' comment; I haven't done that.
- It's all a bit hypothetical, of course.
- use the short answer of what's recommended, up to 26V and 12A (for 4 channels - 6A would seem enough for 2 channel) which fits with comments made so far, quoted below. More amps is probably OK; more volts is not.
- as far as a supplier, read some of the comments on the Sure power supplies in the thread, they seemed positive IIRC. There are some others mentioned in this forum if you search on SMPS
Maybe review these quotes from above posts, while you're waiting for a specific answer:
So the watts will go up with the *square* of the voltage. So higher voltage = much higher watts.Saturnus said:
That calculation is per channel, and IIUC the amperage increases with more channels. That is, if each channel is at about 60 W at 24V and 4 ohms - then Amps = Watts/Volts or 60/24 = 2.5 or round up to 3A per channel - that gives you 12A with a little cushion included (if you are using 4 ohm speakers or might be)
Ouroboros said:
TWOJZ said:
So just plugging Saturnus' math gives these kinds of results. Twi big things to note:
- You'd have to allow for lower realized voltage in the math to allow for Ourobourus' comment; I haven't done that.
- It's all a bit hypothetical, of course.
Code:
Watts / Ch ohms
4 6 8
volts
12 12 8 6
18 26 17 13
24 46 31 23
26 54 36 27
Amps / Ch ohms
4 6 8
12 1.0 0.6 0.5
18 1.4 1.0 0.7
24 1.9 1.3 1.0
26 2.1 1.4 1.0
Assuming
80% efficiency
67% to reduce distortion to 1%And of course there are a couple of errors ... this corrected version takes out the 80% efficiency factor (used to calculate the output) when calculating the amperage input required and fixes a formula error.
I added a 2 ohm column just for fun. Those figures may be especially hypothetical.
I added a 2 ohm column just for fun. Those figures may be especially hypothetical.
Code:
Watts / Ch - Output
ohms
2 4 6 8
volts
12 19 10 6 5
18 43 22 14 11
24 77 39 26 19
26 91 45 30 23
Assuming
80% efficiency
67% of max power, to reduce distortion to 1%
Amps / Ch - Input
ohms
2 4 6 8
volts
12 2.0 1.0 0.7 0.5
18 3.0 1.5 1.0 0.8
24 4.0 2.0 1.3 1.0
26 4.4 2.2 1.5 1.1Got to say, i have rigged mine up with a Meanwell 24V 14.6A SMPS, and it sounds better and better every day.
I turned the voltage up to 26V, and this thing hardly breaks a sweat playing very loudly.
It does not have the finesse of My tripaths (TA10.1, T1000Hcl), but what it does have is sheer slam and energy in the bass, and great imaging. A slightly darker midrange, and the detail is not as pronounced as the T100hcl Autocostiuire board. But that is a very well thought out Amplifier board costing 6 times as much.
This sounds like My old Audiolab 8000SX, but better. It sounded clinically precise and dynamic, with excellent placement if slightly cold. Where as when i first had the Sure Amp on, it was way too bright. its now settled down with run in, and has a good balance.
I'm still amazed, and perhaps i caught the train too late with DIY, that for peanuts now, we have some amazingly cheap routes into very decent sound.
i wonder if anyone has played around with the input caps,(wherever the hell they are) or upgraded it, or has any reccomendations for getting more out of the chip. Or is it worth the effort?😀
I turned the voltage up to 26V, and this thing hardly breaks a sweat playing very loudly.
It does not have the finesse of My tripaths (TA10.1, T1000Hcl), but what it does have is sheer slam and energy in the bass, and great imaging. A slightly darker midrange, and the detail is not as pronounced as the T100hcl Autocostiuire board. But that is a very well thought out Amplifier board costing 6 times as much.
This sounds like My old Audiolab 8000SX, but better. It sounded clinically precise and dynamic, with excellent placement if slightly cold. Where as when i first had the Sure Amp on, it was way too bright. its now settled down with run in, and has a good balance.
I'm still amazed, and perhaps i caught the train too late with DIY, that for peanuts now, we have some amazingly cheap routes into very decent sound.
i wonder if anyone has played around with the input caps,(wherever the hell they are) or upgraded it, or has any reccomendations for getting more out of the chip. Or is it worth the effort?😀
so I paypal'd them the other $US14 they asked for a week ago (21st) just got an email from them, still asking for the money...
awesome company!
awesome company!
My god that sarcasm reminds me of myself when i deal with incompetent *********.
dam shame, did you buy off Ebay
emperor said:
not sure if you're insulting me or not... haha
yeah, off ebay, I originally paid on the 6th of december, I paid what ebay said for me to pay, but it apparently short changed the seller of $US14 worth of postage...
now, they didn't actually contact me reguarding the incorrect amount, until I emailed them asking what was happening with my item (like a week later) and at first, I missed their reply...
anyway, they have my money now, I guess my item will finally be posted... 3+ weeks after paying...
lol, no i wasnt insulting you, if i was i would slap you round the head and say shouldnt be such a bastard and you dont deserve your amp😀
no seriously, i am dealing with one of the worse companys for "not giving an F" after you have bought and ordered from them, so you do have my sympathys.
and i hope it soon gets to you
no seriously, i am dealing with one of the worse companys for "not giving an F" after you have bought and ordered from them, so you do have my sympathys.
and i hope it soon gets to you
So after my post on the rest of the goodies needed to build this thing, I decided to dive in and order one of the cases I linked to. For $60 + $55 air mail shipping, I'm interested in seeing how these cases fair. The specs seem to be beefier than the parmetal ones, but i'll let you know the outcome.
I bought a pair of the Sure-Electronics.com 5.5V filterless class D amplifiers. They took a while to arrive (3~4 weeks, I don't check my mail box very often anyway). They were packed well, and well documented.
The amplifier is interesting, it is a bridge amp that runs at 280Khz. Even without a filter the distortion is only about 0.08% at 1W at 1Khz.
My intent is to drive four external logic-level FETs from a high voltage supply (100V~200V), add an output filter, and use it as a massive subwoofer power amplifier.
The amplifier is interesting, it is a bridge amp that runs at 280Khz. Even without a filter the distortion is only about 0.08% at 1W at 1Khz.
My intent is to drive four external logic-level FETs from a high voltage supply (100V~200V), add an output filter, and use it as a massive subwoofer power amplifier.
4 channel Class D amp Sure Electronics board
Some measurements using a National distortion analyzer using an additional 30 kHz low-pass filter and a Delta Electronika 24V-5A switching power supply. Only one channel was used and measured.
1W into 5 ohm: 0,95 % distortion
5W into 5 ohm: 0,46%
20W into 5 ohm: 0,081%
36W into 5 ohm: 0,074%
max. output power into 5 ohm at 1%: 42W
Used DC voltage: +24V DC
Current at max. power into 5 ohm: 2,2 Amp DC
F-3dB = approx. 47 kHz (5 ohm load).
Wim
PS. will try to do some more measurements, though my time is very limited at the moment 🙁
Some measurements using a National distortion analyzer using an additional 30 kHz low-pass filter and a Delta Electronika 24V-5A switching power supply. Only one channel was used and measured.
1W into 5 ohm: 0,95 % distortion
5W into 5 ohm: 0,46%
20W into 5 ohm: 0,081%
36W into 5 ohm: 0,074%
max. output power into 5 ohm at 1%: 42W
Used DC voltage: +24V DC
Current at max. power into 5 ohm: 2,2 Amp DC
F-3dB = approx. 47 kHz (5 ohm load).
Wim
PS. will try to do some more measurements, though my time is very limited at the moment 🙁
Measurements I did are with an original board without any housing, so a kind of experimental test setup.
* 2 channels were put together (plus terminal channel 1 to plus terminal channel 2 and minus from 1 to minus from 2), inputs were put together. Result: no reduce of distortion and no more output power. Load was 5 ohm.
* hum of this test setup without chasing related to 1W is -40 dB, hum with shortened input is -32 dB, which both are poor to my opinion.
* I am using a V1.1 board and RC network at the output is 10E and 1uF. Changing this to the more common 10E and 0.1uF doesn't bring any improvements in specs like distortion.
Note: I am using an additional input network set at 30 kHz for my distortion analyzer, this conform TI.
Wim
At the moment I am listening to the Sure Electronics amp board.
The board is connected as is, so no housing and using my Delta Elektronika ES 030-5 (switching) power supply.
Noise or hiss are on my Dynaudio’s no problem, its not as quite as it can be, but at the listening position its no problem. I started directly with my best disc in all ways, Arcadi Volodos Etudes Tableaux – Live in Carnegie Hall (solo classical piano on Sony), and this is good. Soundstage is there, drive is there, the ‘live’ noises can be heard and it goes loud and is not nasty or harsh at all. This piano recording a very dynamic and my Dynaudio’s are good company, at least if they are in good company. And they are, that’s for Sure.
I do know how this recording can sound and what’s missing is the full body of the piano that is ‘normally’ there. But if you would have nothing to compare, I would have nothing to say. Bass is also a little underdone in terms of what can be done.
I believe a good sounding amp with power and good soundstage. It maybe fails a little in colours and body in the above mentioned setup. For Sure I going to look now for sme decent power supply and housing.
Wim
Attached photo is taken with my mobile phone with not too much light.
The board is connected as is, so no housing and using my Delta Elektronika ES 030-5 (switching) power supply.
Noise or hiss are on my Dynaudio’s no problem, its not as quite as it can be, but at the listening position its no problem. I started directly with my best disc in all ways, Arcadi Volodos Etudes Tableaux – Live in Carnegie Hall (solo classical piano on Sony), and this is good. Soundstage is there, drive is there, the ‘live’ noises can be heard and it goes loud and is not nasty or harsh at all. This piano recording a very dynamic and my Dynaudio’s are good company, at least if they are in good company. And they are, that’s for Sure.
I do know how this recording can sound and what’s missing is the full body of the piano that is ‘normally’ there. But if you would have nothing to compare, I would have nothing to say. Bass is also a little underdone in terms of what can be done.
I believe a good sounding amp with power and good soundstage. It maybe fails a little in colours and body in the above mentioned setup. For Sure I going to look now for sme decent power supply and housing.
Wim
Attached photo is taken with my mobile phone with not too much light.
Attachments
Has anyone taken a close look at the 2 ch boards?
Assuming the pcb and chip are the same as the 4ch unit, could you bring the 2 other channels to life with a few parts out of your parts bin?
Assuming the pcb and chip are the same as the 4ch unit, could you bring the 2 other channels to life with a few parts out of your parts bin?
TWOJZ said:
Ha! Yes, I know I'm being really tight here! But it would have at least given me an excuse to get my soldering iron out too
Anyway, 1 4ch board orderred now
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