It depends on your definition of works and how many watts you need. Which depends on the speakers you're using. And on how many channels you're using. If 10-15 watts is enough, then it will "work."GuyPanico said:
See the previous page, this post. The measurements later on by Wim suggest that the amp might do 20-30% better than that math suggests (better efficiency? less distortion? measurements done at the optimal frequency?), but that will give you an idea of what to expect.
19v 6a would be significantly different from 15v 5a.
Some better photo of my listening test set up.
You don't hear me say this is the best amp I had in my set, because it is not, but despite of its lack of good measure results, it sounds very confincing.
Wim
Attached a better photo of how I listen to it now days, a fancy case is on its way.
You don't hear me say this is the best amp I had in my set, because it is not, but despite of its lack of good measure results, it sounds very confincing.
Wim
Attached a better photo of how I listen to it now days, a fancy case is on its way.
Attachments
Thank you for all the comments, very interesting and helpful.
It appears you haven't attached the ground (or earth, GND on the diagram).
Is that just a safety feature, or is there reason to think it might help with hiss or hum? I think someone commented that it did not, but I wasn't sure that was what they were saying.
It appears you haven't attached the ground (or earth, GND on the diagram).
Is that just a safety feature, or is there reason to think it might help with hiss or hum? I think someone commented that it did not, but I wasn't sure that was what they were saying.
I got mine today...
it should be noted, that I work in electronics assembly....
the build quality of this thing is complete sh!t!!! hahaha
I really cant believe how bad it is!
its going to take at least an hour to bring it upto an acceptable standard!
oh well... lol
it should be noted, that I work in electronics assembly....
the build quality of this thing is complete sh!t!!! hahaha
I really cant believe how bad it is!
its going to take at least an hour to bring it upto an acceptable standard!
oh well... lol
and of course, onto the compulsory pics 😀
I really should use a mains power cable with a ground wire... haha, and ground the amplifier as well... 😛
now thats some awesome quality right there! haha
hey, atleast it didn't blow up
I really should use a mains power cable with a ground wire... haha, and ground the amplifier as well... 😛
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
now thats some awesome quality right there! haha
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
hey, atleast it didn't blow up
. Boy you must have pissed them off mine is pretty clean
djk said:
no, thats not my rework, thats how it was when I got it...
I was originally going to put the whole board back over the wave solderer at work, but I'll probably just resolder everything by hand over the weekend
That's a lot worse than my board. On mine, there is some uncleaned flux, but much better than this picture shows.
They would get better soldering if they updated the pcb with proper thermal-relief areas between the plated-through holes and the thick power tracks/planes.
They would get better soldering if they updated the pcb with proper thermal-relief areas between the plated-through holes and the thick power tracks/planes.
Ouroboros said:
the non properly through hole filled component leads Im looking at, dont have that much thick track around them...
I think they just need to get the pre heater in their wave solderer working again... haha
SPECS
51.4 mV input will give 2.5 V out
300 mV will give 14.5V, so you need only 0.3 V to get full power at 42W into 5 ohm
Gain = 48x or 33 dB
51.4 mV input will give 2.5 V out
300 mV will give 14.5V, so you need only 0.3 V to get full power at 42W into 5 ohm
Gain = 48x or 33 dB
Isopropyl alcohol is brilliant for removing Sure Electronics Flux/Rosin!
...meths might also work.
...meths might also work.
bongoman said:
it will... but, none of the joints are actually soldered properly
I planned on putting the board back over the wave (after spraving BOTH sides with flux), then touching up any dodgy solder joints, then cleaning the board with IPA, and finally, washing the board with "safe wash" and drying it in the oven 🙂
I thought that the soldering was awful with the TA2024 Tripath boards I bought from Sure, but after giving them a good wash with Isoclene the soldering wasn't actually that bad. It was just the flux that made it look sh*tty.
bongoman said:
nah, see, none of the solder joints on this board have actually wicked through, which is not acceptable by my standards!
Ah, I see now. The board looks like it's made by the same process as the TA2024 boards, but the Tripath boards are mainly SMT. Just blob it with a soldering iron.
where can I get a 2 channel class D IC from anyway?
I want to make up a small Class D amplifier, with switchmode powersupply, to run off a car battery 🙂
I want to make up a small Class D amplifier, with switchmode powersupply, to run off a car battery 🙂
MikeHunt79 said:
I dont want to use their bulky PCB with the heatsink taking up half the board, I just want the IC so I can make my own PCB
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