New tubes, output transformers, a new power transformer and new caps. And new resistors have been ordered. So only the chassis and binding posts are original. I don't want to judge other peoples decisions but there really is no sense in this.
Last edited:
Anyone have any thoughts here? Oh, this is in regard to the EL34 amp.
Also, Joe would you consider posting some internal pics and a schematic of the EL34 amp?
Last edited:
??
-Where IS the EL-34 silver? It's not on your web page.
-Why is the shipping cost to to the USA doubling from $75 to $150? Shipping should be the same...
$440 delivered for the new EL34 amp sounds like a bargain. I would love to grab one myself, but alas I am currently a poor student who does not have that kind of change lying around.
The very low entry level price was what encouraged me to go ahead and grab the EL84, along with the very nice minimalist looks.
I've bought lots of high-end gear over the years but can safely rate the Suppo as one of the best value pieces I've owned, especially when modded!
The very low entry level price was what encouraged me to go ahead and grab the EL84, along with the very nice minimalist looks.
I've bought lots of high-end gear over the years but can safely rate the Suppo as one of the best value pieces I've owned, especially when modded!
Hi Bosk,
Unless you hear a lot of noise from the amp, I would stay with what you have. When I put new Teflon-insulated Silver wire in my Suppo amp, I used enough wire to twist pairs and run them along the top left corner of the chassis interior. I have a twisted pair for the right and left inputs ("hot") and a twisted pair for the right and left grounds going from the RCA input connectors to the SMD stepped attenuator. I used the same wires to go to ground and the right and left driver tubes on the PCB.
That's fantastic to hear that the Suppo performed so well rhing!
I bet the crowd was really knocked out given the price.
Out of interest, did all of the EL84 amps share the same flavor of sound?
I'm about to upgrade the valves in my Suppo and had considered going with the Genalex EL84 re-issues and RCA 6CG7 clear-tops which I've read great things about.
Does it really make sense to spend as much on valves as I have on the amp itself though?
Cheers.
All the EL84-based amps did have similar sound characteristics (great drive, well defined bass, huge soundstage, etc.). Everyone could hear different levels of refinement based on the iron, type of power rectification (tube or solid state) and topology (triode, ultralinear, etc.). The wow factor came from the fact that the humble Suppo amp costs $130 plus shipping ($130 including shipping in my case).
I bought the Gold Lions at a great price plus a 20% sale discount from Parts Connexion. It was only about $30 more than what I would pay for a matched quad of JJ Tesla EL84s. I guess I could have bought some Russian tubes, but I'm really pleased with the Gold Lions and the RCA clear tops. When I have all my upgrades in the Suppo, my total costs will be around $300. I would be hard pressed to build an amp from the ground up with these tubes at that level.
BTW, if anyone wants to hear speakers that are a good match to the Suppo or any other EL84 amp, the Klipsch Heritage line of speakers like the Klipsch Quartet, Forte, Chorus, Cornwall or La Scala sound great.
Hi Bigjppop...
A quick clearify and correction about the 12at7 and 6cg7:
the tube we offer now is:
EL34 Silver version: shuguang EL34*4, 6DJ8*1, 6N6*2.
EL34 Platnium:shuang treasure EL34*4, 6N11*1, 6CG7*2.
the 6DJ8 ( 6N11) can be replaced with 12at7,12ax7 , 12au7 (need a swithing plate)
the diagram will be posted later.
A quick clearify and correction about the 12at7 and 6cg7:
the tube we offer now is:
EL34 Silver version: shuguang EL34*4, 6DJ8*1, 6N6*2.
EL34 Platnium:shuang treasure EL34*4, 6N11*1, 6CG7*2.
the 6DJ8 ( 6N11) can be replaced with 12at7,12ax7 , 12au7 (need a swithing plate)
the diagram will be posted later.
Hmmm... So the platinum series is replacing the 6N6 tube with a 6CG7 tube? That is even more confusing. I was under the impression that there were pretty much no subs for the 6N6 tube (except the Russian 6N6P). Are the circuits different between the silver and the platinum or is it just the tubes?
I've also never heard of subbing a 6DJ8 with any of the 12A_7 tubes and especially not with all of them. I'm no expert, but I've read many places that the 12A_7 family are not interchangeable with each other.
Hopefully those wiser than I will chime in here.
Last edited:
You should start a new thread for the EL34 on the Vendors Bazaar
Joe,
You should start a new thread for your EL34 amp on the Vendors Bazaar sub-forum. No one will know about your new offer except those who read about the Golden Voice here. This thread was really started to post reviews on the Golden Voice EL84 amp as you requested. If you really wanted to take your business opportunities further with the diyAudio community, you should start up your own sub-forum under "Suppo Audio." You can also use that as an avenue for providing better support to your customers here.
Joe,
You should start a new thread for your EL34 amp on the Vendors Bazaar sub-forum. No one will know about your new offer except those who read about the Golden Voice here. This thread was really started to post reviews on the Golden Voice EL84 amp as you requested. If you really wanted to take your business opportunities further with the diyAudio community, you should start up your own sub-forum under "Suppo Audio." You can also use that as an avenue for providing better support to your customers here.
We haven't seen the schematic yet and we're already rolling tubes 6DJ8 can be substituted with 6N11, 6922, ECC88 and 7308.
12AT7, 12AX7 and 12AU7 are pin compatible, but to make good use of them you'll have to swap some resistors.
Let's wait for the schematic
From a technical point of view, using twisted pairs (even teflon insulated silver wires, wich helps to keep the wherewolves out of your amp) for asymmetrical low audio voltage is completely wrong.
There is perfectly good low capacitance shielded cable available for this use.
(mostly marketed as high end guitar cable)
If you're uncertain about this sollution, you can still smear the insides of your amp with garlic
Or simply keep a wooden stick at hand
I quick question on coupling caps in the EL84 amp; the spec reads .1uf 400V and I've got some .22uf 600V caps that need a home. Would the extra capacitance make any difference? Also, I remember reading somewhere that C4 could benefit from a better cap; not really sure were I read that or what "better" means but I'd love to hear some thoughts.
Lastly, what exactly does "cutting traces" on a PCB involve? How is it accomplished? I'm talking about the triode mod here.
Lastly, what exactly does "cutting traces" on a PCB involve? How is it accomplished? I'm talking about the triode mod here.
More capacitance in the coupling role will allow the circuit to pass a lower frequency than it could with less capacitance. While deeper frequency response might appear to be a better thing, you need to consider the overall stability of the amp and the saturation limits of the output transformers. Sometimes bandwidth limiting helps more than it hurts.
A hobby knife (X-acto) is usually the tool of preference. Just cut two parallel lines about 1/16" apart, and scrape away the copper trace in between.
That's actually C4 and C16. Those are the decoupling capacitors for the anode resistors in each channel.
Better in this case means, same value (as Ty pointed out) but lower ESR ratings.
Just to name a few:
UNITED CHEMI-CON - ELXZ250ELL221MH12D
VISHAY SPRAGUE - 678D227M025CG3D
RUBYCON - 25ZA220M10X12.5
Well it looks as though I might have killed my Suppo amp.
I tried performing the Triode mod tonight, I didn't feel confident as it's probably the trickiest mod I've yet attempted but after saying I'd do it felt like I had to make the attempt.
Cutting through the traces was very tricky, the copper is so thick that I couldn't manage it with my hobby knife so in the end I unsoldered each pin 9 and lifted them up off the PCB, being supported by some thick solid core wire connected to pin 7.
Getting the resistors out was tricky too, but I managed it in the end. I solded two 5watt wirewound 390ohm resistors per side.
I then had to reconnect all the wires to the PCB which seemed to go fine, and I re-checked each joint, along with the overall 'map' I had drawn of which wire matched up with which location at least 5 or 6 times.
Upon turning on the amp... nothing. I heard the usual very faint buzz of the transformer that I usually get on startup but no sound, and not even the tubes are being heated - no tube glow is evident.
I've since taken the amp apart twice and re-checked all my wiring but absolutely nothing stands out as being the problem. I'm absolutely in the dark.
Could I have damaged the transformers or tubes somehow? I'm hoping whatever I've broken (if indeed I have broken something) lies only with the PCB, as then I could order a new one from Suppo rather than having to buy a whole new amp! (which I can't afford being a student)
I'd really appreciate any advice you could offer as naturally the situation is very frustrating.
I tried performing the Triode mod tonight, I didn't feel confident as it's probably the trickiest mod I've yet attempted but after saying I'd do it felt like I had to make the attempt.
Cutting through the traces was very tricky, the copper is so thick that I couldn't manage it with my hobby knife so in the end I unsoldered each pin 9 and lifted them up off the PCB, being supported by some thick solid core wire connected to pin 7.
Getting the resistors out was tricky too, but I managed it in the end. I solded two 5watt wirewound 390ohm resistors per side.
I then had to reconnect all the wires to the PCB which seemed to go fine, and I re-checked each joint, along with the overall 'map' I had drawn of which wire matched up with which location at least 5 or 6 times.
Upon turning on the amp... nothing. I heard the usual very faint buzz of the transformer that I usually get on startup but no sound, and not even the tubes are being heated - no tube glow is evident.
I've since taken the amp apart twice and re-checked all my wiring but absolutely nothing stands out as being the problem. I'm absolutely in the dark.
Could I have damaged the transformers or tubes somehow? I'm hoping whatever I've broken (if indeed I have broken something) lies only with the PCB, as then I could order a new one from Suppo rather than having to buy a whole new amp! (which I can't afford being a student)
I'd really appreciate any advice you could offer as naturally the situation is very frustrating.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.