OK, that's progress! I think I gave enough pointers for you to complete it. Especially see the post about the opamp pin voltages.
Also, try to follow from opamp output to base of pass transistor.
And remember: if you have a problem with something that has been build 100's of times with no issue, it's a safe bet that you made a mistake. ;-)
Assume that a moron (just assume!) build up the board and double check accordingly!
It might also pay to read the article linked at the diyaudio store.
Jan
Also, try to follow from opamp output to base of pass transistor.
And remember: if you have a problem with something that has been build 100's of times with no issue, it's a safe bet that you made a mistake. ;-)
Assume that a moron (just assume!) build up the board and double check accordingly!
It might also pay to read the article linked at the diyaudio store.
Jan
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And measure. If you look at the circuit and read the article, and reason about the voltages expected, then measure, gives you a quick clue. It isn't that hard.
So much more rewarding than blindly substituting and hoping you catch it.
Jan
Oh, sorry if misunderstood, was the target voltage is intended to be 10V? Or have I misread something else?
Jan, I read though your notes at https://linearaudio.nl/sites/linearaudio.net/files/superreg%20V2.3.pdf and there's no mention of maintaining the regulator output at a minimum of 100mA by using a resistor to earth at the output to 'top up' the quiescent current of the load (if the load is less than 100mA), which I seem to be recall reading somewhere, maybe in the copy of Walts magazine articles, or earlier in this lengthy thread.
Would a further refinement (2.4?) of the schematic / layout, be to have space for such a resistor and two holes on the PCB? Or is better regulation achieved by locating the resistor at the load?
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I don't know where that comes from, certainly not from me. There's no minimum external load required.
Jan
Jan
Thanks again for your help.
5V regulator is running.
D5 = LM4040AIZ 2.5V.
R7 = 1K.
R6 = bridge.
D2 = 2 red LED.
R5 = 4.99.
R2 = 10K.
Result 5.007V even under load stable 400mA.
I had the LM4040AIZ 5V installed first.
Dirk
5V regulator is running.
D5 = LM4040AIZ 2.5V.
R7 = 1K.
R6 = bridge.
D2 = 2 red LED.
R5 = 4.99.
R2 = 10K.
Result 5.007V even under load stable 400mA.
I had the LM4040AIZ 5V installed first.
Dirk
For 5 volts out, use Walt’s Gled 2.5 Volt voltage reference, but decrease the series resistor to get at least 8 ma ( R5 becomes 120 ohms on the positive regulator, R12 for the negative) through it for best noise performance and pot it in silicon to get the thermal drift to a minimum
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Well done!
Debugging something you build yourself is actually one of the hardest things ever, because you are sure you did it right!
Especially if you don't have much experience with such things, you start to suspect and replace all kinds of parts, sometimes making it worse.
Just letting it sit for a day and then go over it in detail generally makes you find the issue, but who can do that once the project is finally finished 😀
Jan
Debugging something you build yourself is actually one of the hardest things ever, because you are sure you did it right!
Especially if you don't have much experience with such things, you start to suspect and replace all kinds of parts, sometimes making it worse.
Just letting it sit for a day and then go over it in detail generally makes you find the issue, but who can do that once the project is finally finished 😀
Jan
Opps - R5 and R 12 should be around 300 ohms for lowest noise, not 125 ohms when using Walt’s Gled 2.5 V Voltage reference for a 5 volt output
So that 8mA is an increase from the original 15 Volt circuit's 1.5mA through the Vref?
I think you would have to look at all noise sources and find which one is dominant. Is that the two resistors?
Jan
Jan
Hi,
I am preparing for building a Super regulator, and would lijke to ask some question:
Which opamps could be used reliably without oscillation? I know the general consensus is AD825 or AD817 but I like to use a lower noise opamp like AD8065.
Do all of those electrolytic capacitors need to be 120uF 25V strictly, since 100uF or 220uf is much more available?
Trung
I am preparing for building a Super regulator, and would lijke to ask some question:
Which opamps could be used reliably without oscillation? I know the general consensus is AD825 or AD817 but I like to use a lower noise opamp like AD8065.
Do all of those electrolytic capacitors need to be 120uF 25V strictly, since 100uF or 220uf is much more available?
Trung
I don't have any experience with that opamp. If you can get one as a sample, why not try it. Do you have the means to test for oscillations (scope)?
The electrolytics are not critical at all. I would not go overboard, but the values you mention should work OK.
Jan
The electrolytics are not critical at all. I would not go overboard, but the values you mention should work OK.
Jan
Thanks for your answer. I don't have any oscilloscope at home yet, even though I know how to do it, that why I ask.
Hi Jan,
one more question, could I use super regulator to power the Bruno Putzeys balanced preamp, replace the Hypex/7815 regulators?
Trung
one more question, could I use super regulator to power the Bruno Putzeys balanced preamp, replace the Hypex/7815 regulators?
Trung
I don't know the exact current requirement of Bruno's preamp but assuming it is not above 150mA for two channels (and I think it isn't), should be no problem.
Jan
Jan
Has anyone had any success replacing the D44H11/D45H11 by the MJD44H11/MJD45H11 in order to deal with tight space constraints?