Super High-End 3-way floor-stander

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
The enclosure shape is an option I'm thinking of. The ATC SM75-150S is a interesting midrange, but as I recall very expensive.

/Goran

about £700 or $1090USD per pair.

Did you not sell this to the other 'arf (she who must be obeyed six months later witnessing speaker to end all ...mk II = :nownow: ) as an attempt to produce your speaker to end all speakers, to end the madness?
Accuton not cheap either.
 
about £700 or $1090USD per pair.

Did you not sell this to the other 'arf (she who must be obeyed six months later witnessing speaker to end all ...mk II = :nownow: ) as an attempt to produce your speaker to end all speakers, to end the madness?
Accuton not cheap either.

Ok, that's about 2 times the price of the ScanSpeak midrange.....

No, she knows that I will never give up my hobby, but she's tired of me having 3 sets of stand-mount speakers + sub in the living room :eek:

/Goran
 
Last edited:
Hi 454Casull,

Thanks for your comments. I’ve built endless of stand-mounts + subs. I want to build a true 3-way speaker here. ;)

I’m sure that Mark K's ER18DXT is a nice speaker, but I don’t think these drivers are in the same league as the ScanSpeak;s. I’m a big fan of SEAS drivers and I have personal experience in several designs with both the ER18 and the DXT tweeter. I´m currently using the ER18 in a reference build around Zaphs SR71. I’m using the SR71 to benchmark my own design against and it’s a nice design, but not exceptional.

Likewise have I used the DXT tweeter in several, both active and passive designs and it’s a nice unique driver and is quite hard to work with, but it measures like a dream. However I think there a lot of other dome tweeters that subjectively sounds better like e.g. Dayton RS28F-4 and ScanSpeak D2608/913000 (HDS), but of course that’s my personal taste and opinion.

Regards

/Goran
What 3-way is not a 2-way with another driver on the bottom?
 
I'm really interested if anyone has experience with the ScanSpeak 22W/8851T00 8" woofer, measurements, sonic character, optimal enclosure volume etc.

I don’t need a super sub-sonic response, but I want a fast dynamic response character if you know what I mean.

/Goran

The paper version is tested on Zaph's 8 inch driver roundup.. nothing special.

Zaph|Audio


The smaller Raal is a super tweeter.. for use above 6 kHz IMO.

The larger Raal in amorphous core transformer version is pretty much the tweeter to beat for a standard 3 way.

The Scanspeak 12MU8731T-00 looks excellent.

Zaph|Audio

For bass I'd recommend something a little different - the Lambda Series Dipole10 (..in a sealed cabinet about 3.5 cubic feet, NOT dipole - one driver per side). One 8 ohm coil integrated into the overall loudspeaker, the other 8 ohm coil for active bass gain for baffle-step loss, cabinet losses, and eq. for the modal region.

AE Speakers --- Superb Quality, Unforgettable Performance, Definitely.

Perhaps in an Avalon aesthetic..
 
Last edited:
Hi,
since Respons Grand IMHO is about as good as i gets when it comes to speakers in boxes I would go for something similar. Maybe with one of the RAAL's instead if you want to try a ribbon. You can't go wrong with SS. :D

The SS Revelator bass have tremendous impact and detail for a 10" driver. Very low distortion too. :)

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Goran,

To quote Paul Klipsch: "It's the midrange where we live....".
I would concentrate on the best midrange you can find for your application.
Right now I am listening to my speakers which feature the best midrange IMHO regardless of principle (yes including electrostatics); these midranges are 3 inch beryllium domes.
Loudspeakers are the Yamaha NS1000's (by the way used by the Swedish radio in multiple numbers...).
While the NS1000's are developed to function as studio monitors, there is room for improvement when used for a domestic application.
Think of the Yamaha midrange together with the Raal 70-10, there you have absolute top quality from 500 Hz and higher; crossover can be some 4k; efficiency of Yamaha + Raal is very much the same at 93 dB which eases passive filtering a lot.
Bass could be done with two Scanspeak woofers which would give also about the same efficiency, and with a "speed" matching the mid-high (the NS1000 woofer is great but can be improved upon).
When interested you can contact me, I have two pairs of spare NOS beryllium midranges (out of NS2000's) which I collected as spare parts for my NS1000's, but these midranges seem to be undestructable.
 
Hi ScottG,

Thanks for your comments.

The paper version is tested on Zaph's 8 inch driver roundup.. nothing special.

Yes, the 8” is expensive, but I think it could be something special, both when reading Zaphs blog and when reading the German magazine “Hobby & Hifi” 3/2004. The 22W/8851T00 seems to be a very low distorting driver and with very low mechanical losses.

Zaphs profile is to build nice speakers from cheap drivers and I think that’s ok, but everything more expensive gets low value for him, despite the fact that you often actually get something more from the driver that costs more. It would really interesting to hear anyone’s impression of this woofer used in a diy build.

The smaller Raal is a super tweeter.. for use above 6 kHz IMO.

Yes, I’m afraid you’re right. I took another look in the published spec sheet and it seems to have a distortion of 0.5% down to 3.5kHz, but it doesn’t say what kind of distortion, e.g. K2, K3 and K5 etc. It’s a shame that the RAAL 70-20XR only is available to OEM:s. If I go RAAL I’m stuck with bigger 140-15D. Yet again. It would be interesting if anyone on this forum have experience and measurements to share on the smaller RAAL.


For bass I'd recommend something a little different - the Lambda Series Dipole10 (..in a sealed cabinet about 3.5 cubic feet, NOT dipole - one driver per side). One 8 ohm coil integrated into the overall loudspeaker, the other 8 ohm coil for active bass gain for baffle-step loss, cabinet losses, and eq. for the modal region.

Thank you for the tip, interesting concept. I have looked at these drivers before, but for dipole use and haven’t found any frequency or distortion measurements for them. The box seems to be quite big, around 100liters in your configuration. I must also consider the “WAF” factor here since they will be used in the living room :)

Regards

/Goran
 
Hi Pieter

To quote Paul Klipsch: "It's the midrange where we live....". .

I couldn’t agree more :) that’s why I love the sound from the smaller Revelator drivers and wants to build something around them. Unfortunately haven’t heard any from Illuminator series and if they are an improvement over the Revelators.

For many many years ago I listened on a set of a NS1000 at my friend’s father’s home. I remember that they sounded nice, but at the time I was a big JBL fan and built a lot around PA stuff so they didn’t do a huge impression on me at the time. Today it perhaps would be a different story :D

Thanks for your offer, but at the moment my gun sight is locked on something similar as the ScanSpeak.

Regards

/Goran
 
Hi Jonasz,

since Respons Grand IMHO is about as good as i gets when it comes to speakers in boxes I would go for something similar. Maybe with one of the RAAL's instead if you want to try a ribbon. You can't go wrong with SS.

I have listened to the Baby Grand and I really liked it. I’m also a big fan of ScanSpeak drivers, but I’m not a big fan of the box shape of the response speakers. I’m leaning more to the curved cabinet design or the Mårten design Form Series Marten - Form

Regards

/Goran
 
It’s crazy, but today I found a commercial design that is almost a blue print in what I want to achieve, both esthetically and in its use of driver units. The Sony SSAR1 https://dealersource.sel.sony.com/dsweb/p/ar1/?XID=O:43919_FY11HAV:NextScreen_319708076_corp_display

Ok, they use a SS tweeter instead of my suggested RAAL, but the midrange looks similar and they use the aluminum version of the SS 8”. It’s possible that the woofers are OEM versions, because to my knowledge the aluminum 8” 22W/8857T00 available to the DIY market is more suitable in a closed box version.

I’m also a bit skeptical about the claimed 4000Hz cross-over frequency between the midrange and tweeter. My experience with the 15W driver is that you don’t want to cross it higher than 2700-3000Hz in order to optimize the off-axis dispersion behavior.

Otherwise I think it’s a beautiful loudspeaker and will clearly be an inspiration to me in my design conquest.

Thank you all for the inspiring comments so far, but is there any on this forum who has personal experience with the mention ScanSpeak drivers that you can share?

Regards

/Goran
 
$27,000 for those Sony's.

Makes these aussie ones look cheap!
Transcender Reference Series - Adelaide Speakers - Ascension
Admittedly the cabinet won't be to the same standard, but...

Yes, crazy money, but in my opinion a nice looking speaker. Building it DIY would be 1/10 of the price, but it would be hard to beat the build finish. Without having listened to them I think they have choosen a weird choice in the filter design. I think a good DIY design with these drivers has a good change to sound bettter for a lot less money.

That Adelaide Speaker company has a huge amout of models!:p

Regards

/Goran
 
Goran,

To quote Paul Klipsch: "It's the midrange where we live....".
I would concentrate on the best midrange you can find for your application.
I quote that but you also need good woofers so your not listening to the second and third-harmonic of those in the midrange.

A beryllium dome is special but is it automatically better then new stuff with a copper controlring? And there are a lot of parameter involved that also influences sound of the speaker, cone is one thing.

What seems to me a very special mid is the audax Aerogel cone, big mid cone to get full sound not to thin.
Speaker 17cm Audax Aerogel HM170Z18 .
HM170Z18.1.jpg
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.