Hi i would say not more than 20" of width and little more for depth and quite more for the height
I prefer the front firing woofer concept even if more challenging for the cabinet design and build
Two front woofers would be nice but also expensive
Ok my ref speaker is the Wilson Watt plus Puppy This said i am quite done for the head side
What i absolutely do not like of the Watt is the slanted baffle I prefer it vertical maybe using a flange on the woofer to align it with the TW like in this speaker
I still wonder how to get a Puppy on cheap let say
I prefer the front firing woofer concept even if more challenging for the cabinet design and build
Two front woofers would be nice but also expensive
Ok my ref speaker is the Wilson Watt plus Puppy This said i am quite done for the head side
What i absolutely do not like of the Watt is the slanted baffle I prefer it vertical maybe using a flange on the woofer to align it with the TW like in this speaker
I still wonder how to get a Puppy on cheap let say
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Then around 70-80 liters internal volume?
I guess then one of the drivers that get very good review is: SB34NRXL75-8
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...rxl75-8-vs-sb29nrx75-6-vs-sb29nrx75-8.402671/
I would say if you have no experience with crossover, you should definitely lower your expectations.
If you were to build from scratch, which you are not, then expect no better result than mediocre compared to even cheaper secondhand speakers.
I guess then one of the drivers that get very good review is: SB34NRXL75-8
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...rxl75-8-vs-sb29nrx75-6-vs-sb29nrx75-8.402671/
I would say if you have no experience with crossover, you should definitely lower your expectations.
If you were to build from scratch, which you are not, then expect no better result than mediocre compared to even cheaper secondhand speakers.
hi thank you very much for your helpful advice This is important for me to set a budget
I guess that 600 USD is the entry price for a pair of decent woofers ? i knew that they are the most expensive parts in a speaker
and their selection is very important
what really scares me is the cabinet I will have to ask an artisan to do it for me And artisans cost a lot indeed
They could charge me even 500 dollars for a pair of cabinets If not more
i do not have skills and tools
i see the crossover more challenging for the design than the build honestly
this could be another option Then the task will be the stiffening of the cabinet
I still think that a metal frame with bolts and side even secured with magnets to the frame could be the way to go
A metal scheleton with 6 MDF sides of right thickness
The front baffle will deserve a thicker panel of course Like a 2" panel maybe bolted to the metal frame
The metal frame will provide huge stiffness and also some mass to the enclosure
@ginetto61
After so many very interesting and rightly speeches and enlightening comments from experts (not me!) here about the best possible cabinet, the best possible driver, and the best possible choice based on proven scientific evidence and knowledges, well, I thought that the opposite extreme also exists.
I just stumbled upon this (active) subwoofer with an 8" driver on Amazon for 129,99 (!) bucks that seems impossible to be true.
There are probably even cheaper ones out there, but the feedback on this one is pretty good too.
Obviously I'm not arguing about its sonic or buitl qualities, but at least looking at it (and reading the related feedback) it doesn't seem like it should be thrown away.
I don't know if it's the same for you., but it makes me think, if nothing else, about the enormous impact of aiming for perfection in the initial stages of a project.
In my view, the impact is truly enormous, and I'm not surprised that you haven't taken the first step yet.
In fact, I understand it perfectly. 😉
After pointing out the above enormously expensive example, I thought that you should also consider the opposite extreme in order to find sooner or later your own build dimension, in my opinion. 🙂
After so many very interesting and rightly speeches and enlightening comments from experts (not me!) here about the best possible cabinet, the best possible driver, and the best possible choice based on proven scientific evidence and knowledges, well, I thought that the opposite extreme also exists.
I just stumbled upon this (active) subwoofer with an 8" driver on Amazon for 129,99 (!) bucks that seems impossible to be true.
There are probably even cheaper ones out there, but the feedback on this one is pretty good too.
Obviously I'm not arguing about its sonic or buitl qualities, but at least looking at it (and reading the related feedback) it doesn't seem like it should be thrown away.
I don't know if it's the same for you., but it makes me think, if nothing else, about the enormous impact of aiming for perfection in the initial stages of a project.
In my view, the impact is truly enormous, and I'm not surprised that you haven't taken the first step yet.
In fact, I understand it perfectly. 😉
For a box that size seems reasonable if the quality is good (plywood et al), and if finished nicely, cheap.
An inexpensive approach would be to use a cardboard concrete form or a PVC drain pipe.
The short ones are intetended to be push-push push-pull (Foster 12”) woofers. Isobarik because the woofers are old, want a big box, i have lots of them (17 IIRC) and the piece of pipe was only so large. Each pipe uses 4 woofers.
The tall ones are (intended to be) ML-TLs with Eastech 7” woofer.
dave
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Hi yes They are the Sequerra Metronome I also love the Infinity of course
I decidely prefer front firing drivers Very very much And reflecting surface will emitt a sound out of phase with the direct one
I know it is trivial I would experiment with some cones covered with absorbing layers and placed on the tweeter
I prefer absorbtion than reflections
Dear Mr Dave, i have learned from you that the key property is thickness So a bolted frame made with element like this could work
the woofer is like a beast Beasts must be kept in a cage
A metallic cage on which to mount all the panels
Bracing should be also facilitate
With a very stiff frame the sides will be less stressed and have only to seal the enclosure Even thin panels could work well
Maybe even cardboard panels Or plastic ones
The frame will provide the needed stiffness
With the woofer bolted to the frame of course
the woofer is like a beast Beasts must be kept in a cage
A metallic cage on which to mount all the panels
Bracing should be also facilitate
With a very stiff frame the sides will be less stressed and have only to seal the enclosure Even thin panels could work well
Maybe even cardboard panels Or plastic ones
The frame will provide the needed stiffness
With the woofer bolted to the frame of course
You're far away off! This collides with the previous assertions of thickness, mass, etc.
The key for making sure that a box is soundproof is to eliminate all the components that result fragile from a sound perspective.
Remember the refraction of sound trough a material
If this is true, and I've no reason to doubt about it, then it depends also from the chosen material, I guess.
ginetto, seriusly, at this point: why not concrete?
I don't think it's an impossible thing to do, and I also think it would fully satisfy all your principles of design.
One colud always make a wooden frame, even just glued, of the thickness you want, then pour it inside and try at low cost what comes out.
I just made myself the will and curiosity to do it!
And I'm not kidding at all.
I sincerely believe that concrete could satisfy your perfectionism (which, I repeat, I share, but I also can't wait to see that you show us some photos of your beginning) and answer affirmatively to all the questions regarding the rigidity of a material.
Furthermore, since it is "only" a subwoofer box, it should not be huge, and therefore it probably would not weigh excessively.
After all, concrete, being a fluid material that then hardens as it dries, is also versatile in its own way and building a frame to pour it into is perhaps less difficult than it seems, because it is very artisanal even if made by a manufacturer of relatively large numbers of pieces (e.g. Rauna of Sweden).
At the end of the day, it doesn't seem impossible at all to do it, as already said, and perhaps even easier and more rigid than any other option.
Just my 2 cents...
Metal should resonate at HF, and they will not be excited by the limited bandwidth of the subwoofer.
Sothere is no sympathy.
Note: i would use glue as well as bolts (unneeded if you have another way to hold things together while the glue dries).
Magico has done something similar.
dave
Perhaps if you had a stand mount, the rear of the cabinet could be very thin, perhaps with a weight in the middle to give it the right resonant frequency. If probably wouldn't have enough displacement though.
The first generation Klipsch Hereseys were like that. Sounded BAD. Shipped the drivers & XO to HK, burned the boxes.
dave
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hi there is an agreement that high stiffness can push resonances above the woofer working range while high mass can push resonances below the sat working range
this is way to make a good sat should be much less challenging And also thick mdf should be just perfect I hope
a frame could provide the needed sifness for the bass cabinet like in motorcycle Of course the engine ... the woofer should be mounted to the frame in some ways At that point the side panels will be thin just to seal the speakers I think i have seen a speaker where the panels where secured to the cabinet with magnets ? that would help the access inside the cabinet a lot
hi ! i read some reviews about Rauna speakers made out of concrete Drawbacks weight and a tendency to crack
if we agree that stiffness is what is needed we should look at materials with great stiffness For bass/sub cabinets of course
Or a mix of thick plywood and metal
yes i see your points and i agree But there must be drawbacks that limited the diffusion of such solution
even marble has been used for sure it is stiff
Yes, I myself have said it a few time, the risk exists, but since it is a DIY project I had second thoughts (ages ago I had a pair of Rauna, a two-way that never even chipped).
Furthermore concrete is quite cheap (if it is not three meters high and has no windows, doors and/or balconies).
Seriously, you would not move it too much and you could become an expert in this field.
I'm not joking, I really believe it.
You also need to have the necessary space, I realize that.
Anyway, this will get the ball rolling and get you thinking about... 🙂
Furthermore concrete is quite cheap (if it is not three meters high and has no windows, doors and/or balconies).
Seriously, you would not move it too much and you could become an expert in this field.
I'm not joking, I really believe it.
You also need to have the necessary space, I realize that.
Anyway, this will get the ball rolling and get you thinking about... 🙂