For solder pads with a OD diameter big enough to go over the trace and then solder to it?
Or for ventilation?
Fascinating Captain! (Spock Voice!) One eyebrow up!
Sounds GREAT! ....... On paper!
The pictured rivets/eyelets are brass and not copper. Copper is better and softer.
Second... The OD of the head needs to be 3 to 4 mm at the most to fit the tight footprint on the PCB.
Third.... How does one crimp the other end to appropriate tightness without damaging the PCB and/or components around it? I never set an eyelet before!
Have you ever done this? Can you read what they're saying?
If this is really do-able with a really high level of success, I'd be very much in favor of going this route!!!
Then how to find the right sized rivets/eyelets and tools to get it done right!
OldDIY is the truth! Brilliant actually!
The pictured rivets/eyelets are brass and not copper. Copper is better and softer.
Second... The OD of the head needs to be 3 to 4 mm at the most to fit the tight footprint on the PCB.
Third.... How does one crimp the other end to appropriate tightness without damaging the PCB and/or components around it? I never set an eyelet before!
Have you ever done this? Can you read what they're saying?
If this is really do-able with a really high level of success, I'd be very much in favor of going this route!!!
Then how to find the right sized rivets/eyelets and tools to get it done right!
OldDIY is the truth! Brilliant actually!
There are punches that are designed to set the eyelets (press style or hammer). It rolls the edge out clamping it tight to the board. FR4 boards are made of really tough epoxy. It's not nearly as fragile as everyone thinks.
Spaenaur here in Canada sell the eyelets. Likely McMaster Carr sells them on your side of the boarder. https://spaenaur.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Eyelets-Tools-M32-M33.pdf
Spaenaur here in Canada sell the eyelets. Likely McMaster Carr sells them on your side of the boarder. https://spaenaur.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Eyelets-Tools-M32-M33.pdf
They seem to offer brass and aluminum and too big. Should I use brass or look for copper? Peening it real tight to the board will prevent breaking the solder to the traces. Hopefully even with sub woofer vibrations!
Brass is fine. Tinned brass is pretty common for electrical connections. E23 or E24 eyelets will likely work for you depending on the lead thickness of your part. E34 or E35 would fit in a 4mm space.
Brass (copper) foil or tin plate. Scissors for metal. Plate. Collapse the tube. Drill PCB. Paste. Roll or punch.
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Brass Pickup Eyelets, Package of 50 | stewmac.com I'm not sure what size the eyelet is but they show the setting punch.
Keystone makes them and they come in a handful of sizes. Fender also used eyelets in their point to point amp boards (besides their pickups).