SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales

diyAudio Chief Moderator
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1) Yes good ppm matters a bit. 50ppm 2W Vishay.
2) For digital or phono where even little excess noise matters, E caps must be used. But for powering line level builds, film caps can sound lighter and purer if no audible hiss would surface. E caps can lend a deeper blacker background due to best noise filtering but bit more reticent tone. Considering the signature of the audio circuit choose synergistic film or E.
3) FF SS pairs
 
1) Yes good ppm matters a bit. 50ppm 2W Vishay.
2) For digital or phono where even little excess noise matters, E caps must be used. But for powering line level builds, film caps can sound lighter and purer if no audible hiss would surface. E caps can lend a deeper blacker background due to best noise filtering but bit more reticent tone. Considering the signature of the audio circuit choose synergistic film or E.
3) FF SS pairs



1)Vishay wirewound it will be
2)I'll go with the Wima MKS4 4.7u/63 for both locations as suggested in the build guide
3)F+ and F- twisted pair, S+ and S- twisted pair, all four O's twisted together

Hope thats right. Thanks Salas.
 
I would still prefer TO-247 which have better thermal transfer like IRFP9240 IRFP240. Rectifiers should be TO-220 types and main filter caps no less than 10000uF. About brands and models is up to you.

IRFP9240 costs almost 10 times IRF9530......you think it is sonically worth it ??

And with 9240, what is the max length of wires connecting from the unit to the board?? How should they be twisted if needed....please.....
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Its thermally much more robust and has much more copper that is why expensive. You want to run two Ampere so I was not listing it with sonics in mind. If you can keep your IRF9530s safe at 2A for sink cooling try them. The IRFP TO-247 leads can be trimmed with the central one left bit longer and soldered to the mid pad while extending the others to the narrower TO-220 left and right pads in an angle with short single strand wire.
 
Its thermally much more robust and has much more copper that is why expensive. You want to run two Ampere so I was not listing it with sonics in mind. If you can keep your IRF9530s safe at 2A for sink cooling try them. The IRFP TO-247 leads can be trimmed with the central one left bit longer and soldered to the mid pad while extending the others to the narrower TO-220 left and right pads in an angle with short single strand wire.

If its for a 30V DC input and if the current consumption is about 0.2Amps can we use IRF510? http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/427/sihf510-105610.pdf
 
Its thermally much more robust and has much more copper that is why expensive. You want to run two Ampere so I was not listing it with sonics in mind. If you can keep your IRF9530s safe at 2A for sink cooling try them. The IRFP TO-247 leads can be trimmed with the central one left bit longer and soldered to the mid pad while extending the others to the narrower TO-220 left and right pads in an angle with short single strand wire.

And how to mount the massive heat sink?? Do you have a photo please??
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Its a moderate general purpose circuit and at the 2m area with moderate extra current as designed with its 9530 already

There is no linear phase when there is no infinite bandwidth. A gradual contour with good phase margin at zero gain is all that can be hoped for in the closed loop analysis
 
OK. I'm doing a bit of head scratching here.

I've built the board to supply my Geek Pulse DAC at 12 volts. Spec states that the current draw of my Pulse is 650-950ma. I've confirmed it to be 910ma via the supplied 1500ma smps wallmart.

The BIB board has R101 = 0R33. 1 red + 1 green + 1 white LED dropping 6.4V. (I used those LED's to fit the resistor I had and keep the wattage down.) It should give me around 1150ma Q101, plenty of headroom! (I've measured 1.44 amps rms before the bridge so I should be getting my 1150ma)

Voltage output settles at 12.12V with a 20R0 dummy load and, whilst the tab of Q101 does get to around 85°C, there are no heat issues.

Plug the supply into the DAC and voltage drops to around 6.5V as if the DAC is drawing more power than the BIB can supply. However, when I try a dummy load of 12R0, the output is 12.12V.

What am I missing here?
 
Just tried the 2 wire output and I'm still getting 6.9V out with the DAC connected. That's enough for this evening.

I'll double check the DAC current draw tomorrow and do a component check. (checked them yesterday and everything seemed fine)

I'll also try some higher dummy loads to see at what point the voltage starts to drop off.