Try removing the wires from the terminal block the switch is connected to, and see what happens.
Win W5JAG
Win W5JAG
Right now I have switch to tube rectifier.
When I started Ty's test procedure for power I started at the rectifier socket which showed zero, and I changed switch to tube.
And then you have been in on what happened.😀
When I started Ty's test procedure for power I started at the rectifier socket which showed zero, and I changed switch to tube.
And then you have been in on what happened.😀
When I started up mine one of the hexfreds was shorted and was blowing fuses.
They are still in the circuit and affect it if they are faulty even when the switch is on tube rectifier.
They are still in the circuit and affect it if they are faulty even when the switch is on tube rectifier.
The hexfreds can affect the circuit even when switched out but they shouldn't affect the voltages on the rectifier heaters if they are switched out.
Are all your resistance readings still reading ok according to the checkout procedure?
No harm in disconnecting the yellow transformer 5VAC wires and checking the voltage there.
Are all your resistance readings still reading ok according to the checkout procedure?
No harm in disconnecting the yellow transformer 5VAC wires and checking the voltage there.
Electronics and Analytical Thinking
So much for thinking it is the transformer. I unplugged wires for the rectifier switch. Redid Ty's for dummies checklist. The resistance always did checkout right(after I straightened out the ground).
Rectifier socket pin 2, heater reads 3.7 against s/b 5.
Pins 4and6 read 411 and 409.
Heater pins for the other three sockets read 6.2 against s/b 6.3.
Should I find what was causing snafu or go to tubes and speakers?
And THANK YOU for helping.
So much for thinking it is the transformer. I unplugged wires for the rectifier switch. Redid Ty's for dummies checklist. The resistance always did checkout right(after I straightened out the ground).
Rectifier socket pin 2, heater reads 3.7 against s/b 5.
Pins 4and6 read 411 and 409.
Heater pins for the other three sockets read 6.2 against s/b 6.3.
Should I find what was causing snafu or go to tubes and speakers?
And THANK YOU for helping.
I think that looks reasonable to go ahead. Don't know about the 3.7v. Does your transformer have a centre tap on that winding?
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The tap (yellow wires) for the rectifier tube should be 5 volts.
If I pull the yellow wires- rec tube tap, how do I see if s/s rec. works?
If I pull the yellow wires- rec tube tap, how do I see if s/s rec. works?
As AC/DC Said Let There Be Music
Sooooo, installed tubes ( 12at7 is extremely tight), wired some speakers, plugged in mp3 player and switched it on.
Power tubes and 12at7 glowed nicely. Rectifier tube got warm.
Mp3 player is sending signals (meter shows fluctuating current).
Started with volume control off, gradually turning up. Not a peep ( better than bang).
Current at T1 yellow one wire is 3.7 v and the other is .7 v.
How long is "normal" for amp to warm up? I only let it warm up 2-3 minutes.
Still waiting for my 18 year old.
Sooooo, installed tubes ( 12at7 is extremely tight), wired some speakers, plugged in mp3 player and switched it on.
Power tubes and 12at7 glowed nicely. Rectifier tube got warm.
Mp3 player is sending signals (meter shows fluctuating current).
Started with volume control off, gradually turning up. Not a peep ( better than bang).
Current at T1 yellow one wire is 3.7 v and the other is .7 v.
How long is "normal" for amp to warm up? I only let it warm up 2-3 minutes.
Still waiting for my 18 year old.
What is the ac voltage between pin 2 and pin 8 on the rectifier with the tube out?
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Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Can you disconnect the 2 yellow 5 volt wires from the board and check if they are putting out 5 volts ac across them?
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Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Amazing(at least to me)
Between rectifier pins 2 and 8 was 5.1 v. And across yellow transformer wires was, is, 5.1 v.
Between rectifier pins 2 and 8 was 5.1 v. And across yellow transformer wires was, is, 5.1 v.
Yes. Thats what im trying to get at. The readings of 3.7 v etc. are to ground and you seem to have a problem with the reference to ground on that winding. Mine reads 5v across the pins but also reads 5v between pin 2 and ground. I'm not sure though, looking at the schematic, what that means.
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I don't know if this makes a difference or not.
The transformer has two wires I have not connected to anything.
A green with yellow stripe, and a gray.
The transformer has two wires I have not connected to anything.
A green with yellow stripe, and a gray.
Yes. The green yellow is just the centre tap for the 6.3 volts. That is not used.
I don't know what the shielded gray is for.
In any case is looks like you have 5 volts across pin 2 and pin 8 which should be giving you your full heater voltage as far as I can see.
I don't know if the different reading to ground is significant or not.
Can you check if you have a full DC B+ voltage (around 400 VDC) between the choke connector and ground. Amp turned on with all tubes in?
I don't know what the shielded gray is for.
In any case is looks like you have 5 volts across pin 2 and pin 8 which should be giving you your full heater voltage as far as I can see.
I don't know if the different reading to ground is significant or not.
Can you check if you have a full DC B+ voltage (around 400 VDC) between the choke connector and ground. Amp turned on with all tubes in?
Choke connection,L1, to ground reads zero. Amp plugged in, power tubes and preamp tube have a little glow. Rectifier tube is cold.
So you have no high voltage at all? You did before didn't you.
Maybe that was from the SS rectifier. Have you tried with that on?
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Maybe that was from the SS rectifier. Have you tried with that on?
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I rewired the tube/ as rectifier switch. Plugged in, turned on,my wife gave me big hug for success while I switched. Surprised me! Ground to L1, nothing.
Is there another point to use for B+?
The site was down for a while today.
Is there another point to use for B+?
The site was down for a while today.