Already got that in there, JMFahey, per your suggestion; thanks. It's getting crazy hot right now. Still need to finish fault-finding, in addition to the heat it seems to be oscillating at like one ping per half-second.
JMFahey - I posted earlier about this, but let me bring it up again - the voltages are bouncing all over when I test it (the power supply tests fine in isolation). What sorts of things cause that, like maybe a voltage going to ground or something? I had this issue before, it was a bad chip.
thanks for the input, wg_ski. so are you saying this TDA2030 isn't the right choice / can't be made to work in my reverb labor camp?
You can make it work, but it is certainly overkill if you need to put a 10 or 15 ohm resistor in series with the driver. That means smaller chip could be used - with a lower ohm resistor (Say 2.2 ohms, to protect things in general).TDA2030 will work.
Remember adding a 10-15 ohm resistor in series with input driver and all will be fine.
You can make it work, but it is certainly overkill if you need to put a 10 or 15 ohm resistor in series with the driver. That means smaller chip could be used - with a lower ohm resistor (Say 2.2 ohms, to protect things in general).
Sorry, you are looking at it was if it were a speaker ... it is NOT.
* A speaker has a relatively mild impedance, not that far from a resistor. .
An 8 ohm speaker has a DCR which is also its minimum impedance about 6 to 7 ohms, so about 80% of its nominal impedance, has a very small inductance which starts rising impedance slowly above 1 kHz and reaches mild 16 ohm, if that much, around 10kHz or higher.
It has a resonance well within the Bass range, from, say, 40Hz to 120Hz
* A reverb tank is a strong inductor, plain and simple, DCR is a minor factor (say 10% of nominal impedance), impedance rises linearly all the time across the range, from lowest to highest frequency, resonance is well below the Audio range, there is an extreme impedance change from lowest to highest working frequencies, the works.
You can't even compare them, apples and oranges.
The suggested 10-15 ohm in series is not to attenuate excess drive, not to turn hard to drive 8 ohm into easier to drive 16 ohm but to turn an impossible impedance into something easier and more constant.
In a way, "it turns an inductor into a speaker"
Having a +/- 15V supply driver is good, not to have more driving power but higher driving voltage ... which never hurts when impedance goes through the roof.
Sorry, you are looking at it was if it were a speaker ... it is NOT.
* A speaker has a relatively mild impedance, not that far from a resistor. .
An 8 ohm speaker has a DCR which is also its minimum impedance about 6 to 7 ohms, so about 80% of its nominal impedance, has a very small inductance which starts rising impedance slowly above 1 kHz and reaches mild 16 ohm, if that much, around 10kHz or higher.
It has a resonance well within the Bass range, from, say, 40Hz to 120Hz
* A reverb tank is a strong inductor, plain and simple, DCR is a minor factor (say 10% of nominal impedance), impedance rises linearly all the time across the range, from lowest to highest frequency, resonance is well below the Audio range, there is an extreme impedance change from lowest to highest working frequencies, the works.
You can't even compare them, apples and oranges.
The suggested 10-15 ohm in series is not to attenuate excess drive, not to turn hard to drive 8 ohm into easier to drive 16 ohm but to turn an impossible impedance into something easier and more constant.
In a way, "it turns an inductor into a speaker"
Having a +/- 15V supply driver is good, not to have more driving power but higher driving voltage ... which never hurts when impedance goes through the roof.