Spawn of Frugel-Horn

Chrisb:
The Brynn is a BVR - yes? If so how do you get around the FE126's limited Xmax (advertised as 0.35 mm by Fostex) in a bass reflex cab? When I try to model this driver in the Fostex recommended BR (or a MLTL or TL) the Xmax is exceeded at freqs below 100Hz at only 1w of input. Could the Brynn be modified to turn the large box into a small compression chamber and the "vent" into a longer linear horn? That way the FE126 could be better controlled at low frequencies.
 
Well, it's nice to see that my cabinets (& Dave's CAD plans of them) are apparantly well-regarded & been used to good effect. It's quite flattering actually. :) Especially when they think one of them is worth $6,500pr.

They are open source designs, but there are some stipulations we make. Firstly, that at least a link back to the frugal-horn site and reference / credit (or should that be 'blame?') is given to the people who actually designed the cabinets. A donation is not required, but a nice gesture too. I wouldn't say no to a free pair of the double horns for example (though that's a trifle optimistic). ;)

The other stipulation is that in the case of all my cabinets, & the Metronomes (the others I'm not sure about -Dave?), a commercial license of Martin King's MathCad software is needed for commercial production, even if it's not used by the manufacturer, as this was what was used by me in the design process. Unfortunately, these points haven't been made very clear on the site as yet, so partly our fault. Even so. it would have been nice to know that they were going to make some & to get some feedback on the cabinets, which is what it's all about. First I've heard of it. Thanks for the heads up George.
 
holdent said:
Chrisb:
The Brynn is a BVR - yes? If so how do you get around the FE126's limited Xmax (advertised as 0.35 mm by Fostex) in a bass reflex cab? When I try to model this driver in the Fostex recommended BR (or a MLTL or TL) the Xmax is exceeded at freqs below 100Hz at only 1w of input. Could the Brynn be modified to turn the large box into a small compression chamber and the "vent" into a longer linear horn? That way the FE126 could be better controlled at low frequencies.

The 0.35mm Xmax is a bit low in an ideal world; it should still sound OK at modest volumes though as the 126 overloads quite gracefully.
 
holdent said:
Chrisb:
The Brynn is a BVR - yes? If so how do you get around the FE126's limited Xmax (advertised as 0.35 mm by Fostex) in a bass reflex cab? When I try to model this driver in the Fostex recommended BR (or a MLTL or TL) the Xmax is exceeded at freqs below 100Hz at only 1w of input. Could the Brynn be modified to turn the large box into a small compression chamber and the "vent" into a longer linear horn? That way the FE126 could be better controlled at low frequencies.

I can see that Scott has already addressed this in part, and he's certainly better qualified to answer the technical aspects far better than I, but I think that by the time you modified the Brynn to the extent you describe, it would be on a different branch of the Frugalhorn/ Spawn family tree.

As of the time of this post, Dave's website or server is offline, but I'm sure mr Moose can clarify where that would place it.

In practical terms, overloading the Xmax isn't a huge issue in my 200ft^2 listening room.

1 watt RMS into FE126E in either Brynn, Buschhorn MKI, Frugalhorn or ronC's A126 is more SPL than I need for my listening tastes - YMMV

Driven hard enough either the FE126 in any of the referenced enclosures or 127 in Fonken or Mileva can certainly be overloaded - but in my experience, more gracefully than the CSS FR125
 
Ooooh! Look! All of my bloody text which was directly copied from the frugal-horn site to the Ultra-fi site has suddenly vanished from the latter after Dave emailed him. Apparantly these are completely different designs, despite having identical proportions, driver positions & features like the number of steps used in the mouths.

Gentlemen: draw your conclusions.

P.S. I'm afraid I'm not going to apologise for the language. I hope the moderators will appreciate that under the current circumstances, it's exceptionally mild on my part.
 
Scottmoose said:
Ooooh! Look! All of my bloody text which was directly copied from the frugal-horn site to the Ultra-fi site has suddenly vanished from the latter after Dave emailed him. Apparantly these are completely different designs, despite having identical proportions, driver positions & features like the number of steps used in the mouths.

Gentlemen: draw your conclusions.

P.S. I'm afraid I'm not going to apologise for the language. I hope the moderators will appreciate that under the current circumstances, it's exceptionally mild on my part.


interesting indeed how all speaker products have (temporarily?) disappeared from this website since this morning

"lucy, you got some 'splaning to do"
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Originally posted by Scottmoose Apparantly these are completely different designs, despite having identical proportions, driver positions & features like the number of steps used in the mouths.

Yes, Larry Moore was quite adamant that they were his own design, but after a couple civil emails he pulled down the website of his own volition. I have pdfs of both pages if anyone really wants to see them

dave
 

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BHD

diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
The really weird thing about this is that it's very likely that he hung out here for awhile and found those designs. I don't understand why he didn't just contact you guys and ASK? Geez...

And plagiarizing the text was extremely low. How do you deny it when you copy the text word for word from the site you "borrowed" the designs from? DIY Audio is a small world. Did he think that people wouldn't notice?

I've actually met some people in the audio industry, and I'll tell you some of them are just plain sociopathic in their business practices. For every Nelson Pass, there seem to be a bunch of these jerks.

Well, at least he took it down. It's good that some people still know what shame is.

:mad:
 
And plagiarizing the text was extremely low. How do you deny it when you copy the text word for word from the site you "borrowed" the designs from? DIY Audio is a small world. Did he think that people wouldn't notice?

I am seeing this happen with info from my site two or three times a year, at least that I know about. It would be one thing to reverse engineer and redo the drawings or text, with some changes, to try and disguise a "new revolutionary audio concept", but some industry people are not even capable of that simple task.
 

BHD

diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
What I don't understand is, why is it so hard to give people credit? Is it really that difficult?

When I've told people about the MJK open baffles that my buddy and I built, I've been asked if I designed them, and I said NO. It wasn't hard to do this. When I finally build my own pair of Sachikos, I'm sure I'll be asked that a lot, and the answer will be NO.

I guess I just don't get it and I never will.

:whazzat:
 
What I don't understand is, why is it so hard to give people credit? Is it really that difficult?

Simple answer. They are trying to make money, they want to appear as the one and only unique source. If they provide the real source the buyer may decide to DIY of find a cheaper alternative and the sale is lost. It is all an illusion to fool the customer. Money changes everything.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
MJK said:
Simple answer. They are trying to make money, they want to appear as the one and only unique source. If they provide the real source the buyer may decide to DIY of find a cheaper alternative and the sale is lost. It is all an illusion to fool the customer. Money changes everything.

To much short term greed.... in the long run long term greed (respect, honesty, good service) pays bigger dividends.

dave
 
GM said:


Greets!

Oh yeah.......As presented, not a good plan for a 'fullrange' driver speaker since it will boost the mids more than the lows as well as add excessive standing wave distortion in front of the driver.

What you can do is flush mount it with a radiused flare that = baffle width which will reduce standing wave energy across the driver baffle, but should have little/no audible gain over just flush mounting them, though in theory they will sound a bit 'cleaner' in the mids/HF. If corner loaded and not toe'd in, then the flare will only be at the top and one side.


So is there any sonic reason to mount them in the wall or am I just as well off sitting them in the corner of the room?