But what is the science behind choosing an applicable watt value for a resistor?
In this case 5 watt or 10 watt?
thanks
C
Thanks Allen.
I guess as long as this is a basic 4.7 µF cap with no unusual characteristics that I need to consider.
These days I'm mindful of making assumptions.
Jantzen Crosscaps are $7.50 each
Cross-Cap 4.7uF
Standard Z-caps at SpeakerBug are $8- each
Standard Z-Cap 4.7uF
Superior are $46- each
I think that I can hear the difference between the Crosscap and the Z-Cap and I can't afford the Superior
Some people tell me that Mundorf sound better
Soundlabs Group 4.7uF 400V M-Cap
Anything sounds better than the rubbish yellow caps sold by Jaycar
Cross-Cap 4.7uF
Standard Z-caps at SpeakerBug are $8- each
Standard Z-Cap 4.7uF
Superior are $46- each
I think that I can hear the difference between the Crosscap and the Z-Cap and I can't afford the Superior
Some people tell me that Mundorf sound better
Soundlabs Group 4.7uF 400V M-Cap
Anything sounds better than the rubbish yellow caps sold by Jaycar
Thanks M D.
Always good to learn from experience.
Which of the 2 did you find better?
Will keep away from the yellow ones.
Do Soundlabs sell suitable resistors.
Looking for 2 ohm, 2.2 ohm, 3.3 ohm, maybe 5 or 10 watts?
Are these any good?
MPT-4.7 Metalised Polypropylene Mpt, Polypropylene | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
thanks
Cliff
Always good to learn from experience.
Which of the 2 did you find better?
Will keep away from the yellow ones.
Do Soundlabs sell suitable resistors.
Looking for 2 ohm, 2.2 ohm, 3.3 ohm, maybe 5 or 10 watts?
Are these any good?
MPT-4.7 Metalised Polypropylene Mpt, Polypropylene | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
thanks
Cliff
I've not had a chance to hear a side by side between Mundorf and Jantzen but of the two Jantzen the Z-cap
I usually buy from SpeakerBug to keep a smaller local business going; not that I spend much these days
I know nothing about the Dayton capacitors, not heard or used and not seen any feedback on them; positive or negative
I usually buy from SpeakerBug to keep a smaller local business going; not that I spend much these days
I know nothing about the Dayton capacitors, not heard or used and not seen any feedback on them; positive or negative
Speakerbug also have a good selection of Resistors.
Soundlabs don't appear to, so in the interest of keeping shipping down the former might be the go.
Which Resistors values to you go for generally?
5 watts or 10 watts?
5 watts usually as they are mainly used for tweeters but 10watts if I have them.
I'm lucky in that I have a stash of old but well behaved drivers that don't need a lot of conjugate and auxiliary circuitry to take away peaks and whistles so I don't use a lot of resistors for midrange and bass and I don't have a lot of spare cash so I often opt for cheap over good.
I'm lucky in that I have a stash of old but well behaved drivers that don't need a lot of conjugate and auxiliary circuitry to take away peaks and whistles so I don't use a lot of resistors for midrange and bass and I don't have a lot of spare cash so I often opt for cheap over good.
I have seen a couple, but as a generalization, PE’s housebound typically pushes for inexpensive stuff, i would suspect of the save level as those yellow ones.
I usually use the black Solen caps (come out of the same factory in France as teh Mundorfs AFAIK).
dave
The Sound Dynamics Concert 500 Loudspeakers are first off the rank to be rejuvinated.
These Speakers sounded OK but were lacking in any kind of treble.
Treatment:
Things remaining to do:
Add 100ohm resister across terminals.
Pack the area behind the tweeters with wool (top 30% of box)
Replace speaker terminals with non ferrous.
Result:
Tighter bass.
Treble opened right up without being bright.
Much more detail.
I'm more than happy with the result.
Not my holy grail, but very enjoyable.
Blown away with the drums on the live version of In the Air Tonight by Phil Collins.
I wanted to thank everyone for their fantastic assistance.
Great learning experience thanks to you, the Forum members. 🙂🙂
These Speakers sounded OK but were lacking in any kind of treble.
Treatment:
- Internal 20mm x 12mm Hardwood bracing.
- Fully lined with 2" thick furniture grade foam.
- Drivers treated with butyl mastic.
- Replaced all Crossover caps (PP) & resistors, and rewired.
- Soldered internal wiring directly to drivers.
- Sealed bass cones with matte Mod Podge.
- Isolated boxes from stands with blobs of butyl mastic.
- Heavy duty stands spiked to floor.
Things remaining to do:
Add 100ohm resister across terminals.
Pack the area behind the tweeters with wool (top 30% of box)
Replace speaker terminals with non ferrous.
Result:
Tighter bass.
Treble opened right up without being bright.
Much more detail.
I'm more than happy with the result.
Not my holy grail, but very enjoyable.
Blown away with the drums on the live version of In the Air Tonight by Phil Collins.
I wanted to thank everyone for their fantastic assistance.
Great learning experience thanks to you, the Forum members. 🙂🙂
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Max Planck View Post
One easy and useful mod is to fit 100R across speaker input terminals, 0.6W is enough power rating for low level listening, 5W WW for full power usage.
Are you saying to place this part across the internal section of the +ve & -ve speaker binding posts?
What improvement will be achieved from this?
Originally Posted by Max Planck View Post
Yes directly across the binding posts, if you fit them to the outside of the binding posts you can AB compare easily.
Such resistor provides a load to terminate the cable at high frequencies and quench RF pickup that can cause subtle noise in some amps.
Doing this helps with taming highs harshness.
Take a look at the circuit of an amp, in particular the output.
Then consider this..
Zobel Network
and this..
Zobel network placement
Then consider this..
Zobel Network
and this..
Zobel network placement
Attachments
Thanks Allen.
My recent involvement with diyadio forum represents the extent of my knowledge in electronics.
I'd like to do a course on electronics & circuitry and build my knowledge on the subject.
I had a look at the circuit diagram and read the posts you linked to.
Most of it went over my head, but I think it's suggesting that unless the resistor is placed on or close to the Amp then it's a waste of time.
Is this the conclusion you're suggesting?
thanks
Cliff
No, what i am intending, is tha wuld affect the amp, not the speaker.
I would be wary of anything Max has to say.
As, i think, Allen is suggesting something in an amp, it could be akin to a speaker Zobel, something else that affects the amp (althou if on a woofer or midrange can make an XO easier).
dave