BAD idea.i have another pm860 that works fine. would it be a good or bad idea to pull it and try it in this amp?
Avoid needlessly messing with that amp, any amp.
You have measured nothing pointing to a bad chip, it´s just a guess.
PAMPER THAT PCB, the ONLY unavailable part, can´t be bought over the counter,it´sunique, it´s what makes that amp that amp and nothing else, it is the single most important and most irreplaceable part in that amp, anything else can be bought over the counter or has equivalent replacements, need I to go on?
Desolder/resolder parts only if really needed.
As a side note, you have already damaged that amp by needlessly messing with it.
I told you: just a guess.i just tried the chips from the other amp. same thing.
BAD idea.
Avoid needlessly messing with that amp, any amp.
You have measured nothing pointing to a bad chip, it´s just a guess.
PAMPER THAT PCB, the ONLY unavailable part, can´t be bought over the counter,it´sunique, it´s what makes that amp that amp and nothing else, it is the single most important and most irreplaceable part in that amp, anything else can be bought over the counter or has equivalent replacements, need I to go on?
Desolder/resolder parts only if really needed.
As a side note, you have already damaged that amp by needlessly messing with
i know, it is a very crappy board and i have lifted a couple of traces. but i can always jumper if needed.....the amplifier sounds fantastic it its current state. i just want the light off
the ic chips press into a dip socket....i have already exchanged them from an amp that is exactly the same ...with no luck
the amp sounds fantastic. i realize the pc can easily be damaged. i have lifted a couple of traces simply by unsoldering. but i can jumper if need beBAD idea.
Avoid needlessly messing with that amp, any amp.
You have measured nothing pointing to a bad chip, it´s just a guess.
PAMPER THAT PCB, the ONLY unavailable part, can´t be bought over the counter,it´sunique, it´s what makes that amp that amp and nothing else, it is the single most important and most irreplaceable part in that amp, anything else can be bought over the counter or has equivalent replacements, need I to go on?
Desolder/resolder parts only if really needed.
As a side note, you have already damaged that amp by needlessly messing with it.
I told you: just a guess.
these are socket chips , no soldering involvedBAD idea.
Avoid needlessly messing with that amp, any amp.
You have measured nothing pointing to a bad chip, it´s just a guess.
PAMPER THAT PCB, the ONLY unavailable part, can´t be bought over the counter,it´sunique, it´s what makes that amp that amp and nothing else, it is the single most important and most irreplaceable part in that amp, anything else can be bought over the counter or has equivalent replacements, need I to go on?
Desolder/resolder parts only if really needed.
As a side note, you have already damaged that amp by needlessly messing with it.
I told you: just a guess.
BAD idea.
Avoid needlessly messing with that amp, any amp.
You have measured nothing pointing to a bad chip, it´s just a guess.
PAMPER THAT PCB, the ONLY unavailable part, can´t be bought over the counter,it´sunique, it´s what makes that amp that amp and nothing else, it is the single most important and most irreplaceable part in that amp, anything else can be bought over the counter or has equivalent replacements, need I to go on?
Desolder/resolder parts only if really needed.
As a side note, you have already damaged that amp by needlessly messing with it.
I told you: just a guess.
Attachments
Good to know.these are socket chips , no soldering involved
I speak of the general, solder connection available everywhere, with very few exceptions (such as yours)
Ok, all is well that ends well 🙂
Ok, check the small parts as mentioned in post #40.
Hello, good day. after pulling the amplifier apart i found 50v dc on the positive pin that goes to the led light. after comparing it to the other channel the volts are close to zero. the grounds measure the same. I am sure the problem is on the positive side. R22 IS 3.3K RESISTOR and it looks burned,but still shows 3.3k ......some how i have too much voltage on +of the ledOk, check the small parts as mentioned in post #40.
Attachments
Can you please post the part of the schematic with the LED that stays on?
What is the LED number? The schematic is very bad and it's hard to tell
what is connected where.
What is the LED number? The schematic is very bad and it's hard to tell
what is connected where.
The clipping lights have nothing to do with the IC chips in there. It's likely Q8 is shorted. Q8 for each channel should be on the driver board on the front side of the heatsink near where the power wires plug on.
Ok, I did check Q7 and Q8 ... both seem to check out ok with my dac-55 transistor tester. I did notice that the 3.3k resistor near Q8 is chard. Would that cause a problem ? I measured the resistance and it does show 3.3kThe clipping lights have nothing to do with the IC chips in there. It's likely Q8 is shorted. Q8 for each channel should be on the driver board on the front side of the heatsink near where the power wires plug on.
Attachments
That resistor burned because the circuit is stuck on. It is possible that R10 (10k) is open, but I doubt it. Otherwise something isn't adding up here. Did you remove them and test or was it in circuit?
I would prefer we keep this in the proper thread.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...0-red-led-light-stuck-on.384855/#post-6989872
No sense in spreading this all over and in a thread about a fan stuck on high.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...0-red-led-light-stuck-on.384855/#post-6989872
No sense in spreading this all over and in a thread about a fan stuck on high.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Solid State
- Soundcraftsmen pm860 fan stuck on high speed