I never got past pure copper leads. However, unlike the industry at large, my botton line is twice what they use (70 instead of 30-35 microns), and when I want to go wild, if available, I have used 120 micron copper leads. I have no idea what parasitic oscillations are, I read about them but have experienced them only once, way, way back, and in the end, it was my fault.
I certainly wouldn't mind trying, but as far as I know, nobody does that locally. Milan Karan has to go to Macedonia for his boards. Although, somebody may just be doing it, but given the non existent information system we have on a national basis, nobody knows anything about it. And most people doing PCBs locally are older men, all around 60 and above, who have problems adjusting to PC use as such, so I suppose some blame should be laid at their door as well.
As for wiring, Nigel, I swear by pure silver wiring simply because it's the best I've ever heard. All by Neotech of Taiwan. Although, they do have an OFC wire, costing about one half the silver wire, which is about as good, a dead race between the two.
I am also very happy with van den Hul wiring, I forgot the designation, but it's wiring intended for internal links. Very good and reasonably priced.
I certainly wouldn't mind trying, but as far as I know, nobody does that locally. Milan Karan has to go to Macedonia for his boards. Although, somebody may just be doing it, but given the non existent information system we have on a national basis, nobody knows anything about it. And most people doing PCBs locally are older men, all around 60 and above, who have problems adjusting to PC use as such, so I suppose some blame should be laid at their door as well.
As for wiring, Nigel, I swear by pure silver wiring simply because it's the best I've ever heard. All by Neotech of Taiwan. Although, they do have an OFC wire, costing about one half the silver wire, which is about as good, a dead race between the two.
I am also very happy with van den Hul wiring, I forgot the designation, but it's wiring intended for internal links. Very good and reasonably priced.
We at work discovered the silver purity is important . The problem with that is can you trust the suppler . I am told nickel can work . One guy I know dislikes copper , mostly I agree . We use POCC with 60 micron 6N silver plate ( I never asked imperial or not , 60/1000 000 metre I guess ) . This seems the most economical way . It is not cheap . It is not crazy either . The POCC has to be specially made . Officially the company is not very interested in making it . I can only say this as I don't think anyone has a chance of copying it . The nearest off the shelf product is Nordost . What we use I feel to better that .
Mr van den Hul is an absolute gentleman . That alone would endear him to me . I remember him telling me about making his spark plug cables for his Jaguar . Mr V then said it was important to him to have that car . Say what you like guys no car has more spirit in it than a 1990's Jag . My dearest friend Martina Schoener has a few . Noting my jealousy she offered to find me one . I said like owning a real Jaguar I couldn't afford the food ( parts ) . She and A J are friends . I never asked if his influence . Martina if you read this I will settle for a BMW R50 ( ? ) circa 1937 from Greece ( can be found ) . It must have Amal Leipzig carburetors ( not Bing ) . In exchange I will design you anything you please ( I would without that ) . I will settle for Ibiza in May if too difficult . As long as I do absolutely nothing except eat and have wine . The fish is the specialty there . In May there are flowers in the place of tourists .
BTW . Thanks to all the guys who help Martina both in audio and Jaguar UK owners club . She completely stripped and repaired the engine ( total ) . She was my engineer at one time . I suspect she still is if I ask ? She is a DIY Audio member . She like me has her own ways . Never doubt what she says as research is impeccable when Martina .
Martina has made serious progress with the Garrard 501 . The price is ridiculous but not by the standards of her old company TransRotor .
If anyone thought that was car talk it wasn't . It was people talk .
Mr van den Hul is an absolute gentleman . That alone would endear him to me . I remember him telling me about making his spark plug cables for his Jaguar . Mr V then said it was important to him to have that car . Say what you like guys no car has more spirit in it than a 1990's Jag . My dearest friend Martina Schoener has a few . Noting my jealousy she offered to find me one . I said like owning a real Jaguar I couldn't afford the food ( parts ) . She and A J are friends . I never asked if his influence . Martina if you read this I will settle for a BMW R50 ( ? ) circa 1937 from Greece ( can be found ) . It must have Amal Leipzig carburetors ( not Bing ) . In exchange I will design you anything you please ( I would without that ) . I will settle for Ibiza in May if too difficult . As long as I do absolutely nothing except eat and have wine . The fish is the specialty there . In May there are flowers in the place of tourists .
BTW . Thanks to all the guys who help Martina both in audio and Jaguar UK owners club . She completely stripped and repaired the engine ( total ) . She was my engineer at one time . I suspect she still is if I ask ? She is a DIY Audio member . She like me has her own ways . Never doubt what she says as research is impeccable when Martina .
Martina has made serious progress with the Garrard 501 . The price is ridiculous but not by the standards of her old company TransRotor .
If anyone thought that was car talk it wasn't . It was people talk .
Dyslexia is the reason . At school they worried about it . Somehow the fact I could repair their radio seemed unimportant (I was 8 ) . Just a hobby I would imagine . People often think I have an easy life ( I do ) . It's because I can't read and wright .
This is approximately POCC .
http://www.audiotweak.co.za/items/1306765741-0910.pdf
No one seems to know anything about a current dumper with class D dumpers in my previous link . Seems a rather silly idea to me . Happy to be wrong
Anyone know the best oil for a lawnmower ( new B&S 450 ) . SAE 30 seems not the best we can do . 15 W 50 I already have ? I am feeling too mean to buy SAE 30 .
This is approximately POCC .
http://www.audiotweak.co.za/items/1306765741-0910.pdf
No one seems to know anything about a current dumper with class D dumpers in my previous link . Seems a rather silly idea to me . Happy to be wrong
Anyone know the best oil for a lawnmower ( new B&S 450 ) . SAE 30 seems not the best we can do . 15 W 50 I already have ? I am feeling too mean to buy SAE 30 .
I know you didn't ask me, but I'd like to say something.
Max, Nigel Pearson is one of a less than a handful of people I have ever "met" even in cyberspace who is truly from nowhere in particular and from everywhere at the same time. One of the oh-so-few truly universal people, even if I suspect his British origins do add up a bit of spice into the mix.
I admit to being rather partial to wild, wandreing minds, such as Nigel's.
We used to have Thorsten Loesch here as well, and that would be another of such truly universal people, people who would fit in anywhere, full of fast thinking, fast firing ideas.
Sometimes, it's hard to follow their thinking, but I for one am always up for some brain exercise, I mean, if one has got it, then flaunt it, baby.
And it would seem I do have something passing for a brain, since those two manage to give me all sorts of ideas.IMO, the best oils are the multi-weight synthetics. Then add some Lucas synth oil stabilizer to it.
-Richard
If you buy the correct spec oil, no modifiers are needed. ( most are snake oil, the rest just thicken agents) If the OEM says it should have 30 weight oil, then some 5-30 would be fine. Thicker oil may not have sufficient flow to work as fluid bearings. The "best" would be some that still has ZDDP in it. For a while. motorcycle oil ( no cats on bikes) still did, but I am not sure now.
Nigel, quite a lot of very positive reaction to it, a good sounding music machine in a tiny package - extensive discussion of the to's and fro's are in this long discussion: Has anyone heard the Devialet D-Premier Integrated Amp/DAC
If you dont know them----See Lucas Oil web site. pro Racers use it for decades. I use it in my cars and they require synth oil.
View attachment Lucas.pdf
Works for me, too.
THx-RNMarsh
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Whilst it is a bit naughty to ask about lawnmowers it is a typical modern day engineering problem . The great irony is that the local Tesco mini supermarket sells 5 W 30 fully synthetic at £10 for 2 litres . It meets the Briggs and Stratton > SF ratings . The very big deal is VW 505 . By this pure accident I have found a universal top up oil for all the things I own and Colleens Beetle . That is from VW Golf diesel , Toyota Aygo petrol ( as Citroen C1 ) , VW 1.6 petrol , lawn mower . It is a petrol/diesel grade which for top up is fine . This oil is considerably cheaper than no brand name SAE 30 for lawnmowers . Thanks for the help on this .
My slight fascination for this comes from the Garrard 301 bearings . They need SAE 30 with no additives ( very inportant ) . This has to be imported from Esso France in 25 litre drums . It is still used by Loricraft Audio and the Hoover dam when I last asked . I was there and found out that synthetics of the standard type caused them problems . They even use the same grade ! Esso researched this for us FOC . The man who developed the fuel cell spotted the problem . Dr Bowers is still just about with us ( in 1952 British non ferrous metals Wantage ) .
Terry of Loricraft is making the slow recovery after heart surgery . I am hoping to do Whittlebury show with him in September ( Silverstone UK ) . It is a great show , something like the old Frankfurt show of the past . My dyslexia might be worse as the emotion of him suffering might be showing through . Dr Bowers is his father in law , how jammy is that ( lucky , Dvv will know I am sure when we say jammy ) ?
I will look at this Class D dumper amp . It does make sense . Sad that Peter Walker didn't live to see it . My tests of the Hypex class D say it is rather like a class A amp at low level . I wonder if we are being fooled by a concept we would like to see work with this new French idea ? It was this way with the Quad 405 at first . Then like the Kings new suit of clothes some said it didn't sound as good as the 303 . I suspect the 405 could be made better if a diode was used into the dumpers to hold them off longer ( or a TO3 Darlington ) . Make the class A bit do more work . Also make it true class A ( easy , make the LM 301 work in class A using a current source ) . Then make the protection different . MOSFET's might be the answer . No set up required . Their gentle switch on would be welcome in a dumper amp . They also will be robust .
My slight fascination for this comes from the Garrard 301 bearings . They need SAE 30 with no additives ( very inportant ) . This has to be imported from Esso France in 25 litre drums . It is still used by Loricraft Audio and the Hoover dam when I last asked . I was there and found out that synthetics of the standard type caused them problems . They even use the same grade ! Esso researched this for us FOC . The man who developed the fuel cell spotted the problem . Dr Bowers is still just about with us ( in 1952 British non ferrous metals Wantage ) .
Terry of Loricraft is making the slow recovery after heart surgery . I am hoping to do Whittlebury show with him in September ( Silverstone UK ) . It is a great show , something like the old Frankfurt show of the past . My dyslexia might be worse as the emotion of him suffering might be showing through . Dr Bowers is his father in law , how jammy is that ( lucky , Dvv will know I am sure when we say jammy ) ?
I will look at this Class D dumper amp . It does make sense . Sad that Peter Walker didn't live to see it . My tests of the Hypex class D say it is rather like a class A amp at low level . I wonder if we are being fooled by a concept we would like to see work with this new French idea ? It was this way with the Quad 405 at first . Then like the Kings new suit of clothes some said it didn't sound as good as the 303 . I suspect the 405 could be made better if a diode was used into the dumpers to hold them off longer ( or a TO3 Darlington ) . Make the class A bit do more work . Also make it true class A ( easy , make the LM 301 work in class A using a current source ) . Then make the protection different . MOSFET's might be the answer . No set up required . Their gentle switch on would be welcome in a dumper amp . They also will be robust .
Hi Dan , No offense was taken . It is almost like a speech impediment that I can master most of the time . I find my posts difficult to follow and I wrote them !
The problem was phosphoric acid crystals forming out of the phosphor bronze material due to additives . To some that would say fit PTFE sleeves as did Linn . That aside the answer is not to use oil intended for pressure bearings ( car type ) . The one common oil we found that was OK was Singer sewing machine oil . A little bit thin . Garrard used hydrolic transmission oil . As Esso said slow rotating bearings are different .
When dismissing SAE 30 for the lawnmower I had a horrible feeling I could be making a mistake . As they are splash lubrication one should be cautious . B&S sometimes use a plain aluminum barrel (coated I guess ) and big end it is said . That might still give 20 years if 20 hours a year . Get the oil wrong and it could be less . Honda used the aluminum in the cylinder head without shells for camshafts if I remember correctly ?
The problem was phosphoric acid crystals forming out of the phosphor bronze material due to additives . To some that would say fit PTFE sleeves as did Linn . That aside the answer is not to use oil intended for pressure bearings ( car type ) . The one common oil we found that was OK was Singer sewing machine oil . A little bit thin . Garrard used hydrolic transmission oil . As Esso said slow rotating bearings are different .
When dismissing SAE 30 for the lawnmower I had a horrible feeling I could be making a mistake . As they are splash lubrication one should be cautious . B&S sometimes use a plain aluminum barrel (coated I guess ) and big end it is said . That might still give 20 years if 20 hours a year . Get the oil wrong and it could be less . Honda used the aluminum in the cylinder head without shells for camshafts if I remember correctly ?
LOL. I wasn't sure if you were using Google Translate.
Hmmm, Singer sewing oil evaporates and leaves a gum behind.....no good for electric motor sintered bearings....open an old sewing machine and you will see what I mean.
I have used Dexron II ATF for decades...I have been told that it has bronze dissolved in it to stop erosion of bronze thrust plates in auto gearboxes.
Interestingly, brass, diecast metal and grease don't go well together.
The grease turns to hard/solid dry waxy stuff that seizes pivots, slides on shafts.
LPG barbecues typically suffer seized gas valves because of this.
IIRC B&S stipulate dumping oil after 2 hours or so of initial running in.
Dan.
I think Garrard used Shell Tellus ( 68 ? ) . The Singer oil probably does do as you say . 3 in 1 being the worst at doing that . Singer in a Garrard is better than many oils ( Mobile 1 etc ) .
Briggs and Stratton now say 5 hours and then 25 hours thereafter in the book . I suspect synthetic will survive the full 25 hours during running in ( 1 year ) . To revert to the 2 hour recommendation is very wise as the 25 hours that follows will in fact be next spring . I am almost certain that a synthetic oil will outlast the lawnmower . As it is so cheap it isn't worth the risk . VW now run up to 30 000 miles ( 600 hours ) on computer controlled service intervals on the same type of oil . That is in a diesel + turbo engine giving 150 bhp .
Briggs and Stratton now say 5 hours and then 25 hours thereafter in the book . I suspect synthetic will survive the full 25 hours during running in ( 1 year ) . To revert to the 2 hour recommendation is very wise as the 25 hours that follows will in fact be next spring . I am almost certain that a synthetic oil will outlast the lawnmower . As it is so cheap it isn't worth the risk . VW now run up to 30 000 miles ( 600 hours ) on computer controlled service intervals on the same type of oil . That is in a diesel + turbo engine giving 150 bhp .
Richard,
My IPC-A-610 manuel doesn't address specifically as it is the
Electronic Assemblies manuel. It does address process indicators
but it is the wrong manuel for soldering types.
Which do you recommend? one of the J-STDs?
Printed Boards?
Wondering how HP did it? How or what? do you and others here
use when working on the gold trace/holed HP gear?
Would it be better to use a silver bearing solder?
OR
Do you have to go with one of the new Wunderkind leadless solders,
SN95 AG05? and higher temperatures?
I am with you with the synth oils. However, there has been some
recent testing with mixing oils and additives that you might not be aware
of that has been problematic with the automotive community.
There has been way too much cam ruining going on and some of it
has to do wtih ZDDP additives, other additives etc.
I haven't look at your specific link yet for Lucus but I will.
I'll try to find the link to the oil test guy.
My own experience seems to buttress what he is saying about
additives, but the oil test lab in their infinite wisdom mixed up
my samples and the data came out what they wanted it to be,
not the samples in the order I documented.
pcb trace is copper base, then tin, gold. Soldering is to the tin so a standard tin/lead is fine.... in fact, that is what HP used to used. I use only two types of solder - both made for the electronics industry so the flux is appropriate: 63/47 and sometimes the 2% silver if there is any silver involved (TEK ceramic terminals, for example, or silver switch contacts). 62-36-2%.
Only one more thing.... be sure to get a brand name... for example, Kester or Alpha Metals. Because their solder will be of high purity metals. off brands and second sources are not sure to be made with pure metals and often have a lot of impurities.
THx-RNMarsh
Only one more thing.... be sure to get a brand name... for example, Kester or Alpha Metals. Because their solder will be of high purity metals. off brands and second sources are not sure to be made with pure metals and often have a lot of impurities.
THx-RNMarsh
Got it.
Thanks, I wasn't sure what was laying beneith the gold on the HPs.
AND
It's good to know I have all the right stuff so far, that is
Kester 63/37...I try not to use anything else, but then
there is Kester's 62/36/2...
lead free I mentioned is
the Kester SN95 AG05.
It only took me one time way back when of seeing the
inbetween state in 60/40 and in other no name solders to
recognize it.
As usual, you're right on the money with what you state,
always appreciate your sharing wisdom. You'll have a PM
shortly.
Thanks, I wasn't sure what was laying beneith the gold on the HPs.
AND
It's good to know I have all the right stuff so far, that is
Kester 63/37...I try not to use anything else, but then
there is Kester's 62/36/2...
lead free I mentioned is
the Kester SN95 AG05.
It only took me one time way back when of seeing the
inbetween state in 60/40 and in other no name solders to
recognize it.
As usual, you're right on the money with what you state,
always appreciate your sharing wisdom. You'll have a PM
shortly.
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