https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjBgdPMurP4AhU1ZWwGHbCkB9oQFnoECFUQAQ&url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test&usg=AOvVaw1RKAeV7Wvn-fNr7LCd_rp1
LV is the hardest wood, according to above.
Called Janka Hardness test, a standard measurement for lumber.
The test uses a ball indentation, similar to those used for metal testing, though the ball size and load may not be the same.
More details:
https://www.precisebits.com/reference/relative_hardness_table.htm
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjBgdPMurP4AhU1ZWwGHbCkB9oQFnoECFAQAQ&url=https://www.finwood.uk/blog/63_wood-hardness-janka-chart-craftedforlife.html&usg=AOvVaw1jrqfb1CXliuJG6T-EEkvg
LV is the hardest wood, according to above.
Called Janka Hardness test, a standard measurement for lumber.
The test uses a ball indentation, similar to those used for metal testing, though the ball size and load may not be the same.
More details:
https://www.precisebits.com/reference/relative_hardness_table.htm
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjBgdPMurP4AhU1ZWwGHbCkB9oQFnoECFAQAQ&url=https://www.finwood.uk/blog/63_wood-hardness-janka-chart-craftedforlife.html&usg=AOvVaw1jrqfb1CXliuJG6T-EEkvg
beacause im an ex cabinet maker an antique furniture restorer,oak/ash look nothing like LV in grain or colour.🙂
Well...before launching a bawling balls hunt you should expect the seller to be less of an expert, but I can bet you're not able to differentiate all types of woods just by looking at them as they are so many and they also change with time...Keep regular cherry tree wood aside for 50 years and it will become hard as a rock.I has a reddish brown piece of such wood and it destroyed a hss drill bit making it glowing red in just 2 cm of drilling...Yeah...that's your regular cherry tree wood if you give it enough time. https://www.wood-database.com/top-ten-hardest-woods/#google_vignette
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But drilling wood often heats drill bits, and not because it's hard. Quite the reverse. It's because the wood deforms out of the way instead of being cut, then grips the shank of the drill, causing friction and heat. It's the same problem with drilling plastics. You have to peck at them to keep the temperature down and the resulting hole is always smaller than the drill that drilled it. Of course, with plastics, you can use coolant.
Agreed, but not nearly as ludicrous as uncontrolled human reproduction...
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No, oak is typically 700kg/m3 (aluminium about 2800). Oak and ash have very similar densities; indeed, most hardwoods are quite similar, being in the 600-700 kg/m3 region. Ebony and lignum vitae are the better-known woods which do not usually float, and there are a few hovering around the density of water which might or might not float, depending upon the sample. It's safe to say that most wood floats.
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It is good practice to go in three or so mm, come back one mm, and go back, while drilling plastics.
The removed material breaks when you go back in, as the edge of the dill bit cuts the plastic at a different point.
This is then conveyed out of the hole.
Long cut bits of plastic will cause fouling and excess heat.
Coolant is to be cleaned off ASAP.
An analogy would be chips in metal, long chips may break and hit the machine operator.
The removed material breaks when you go back in, as the edge of the dill bit cuts the plastic at a different point.
This is then conveyed out of the hole.
Long cut bits of plastic will cause fouling and excess heat.
Coolant is to be cleaned off ASAP.
An analogy would be chips in metal, long chips may break and hit the machine operator.
When drilling copper and aluminium, it's VERY important to keep backing of the drill; imagine a gaged razorblade spinning at 1,500 rpm.
Turning plastic can be interesting is it's bendy, I have a box turning tool to machine down lengths of nylon which elevates the problem. I have some black plastic that stinks of fish when drilled, sg iron seems to smell like rotten eggs, but in a pleasant way.
Turning plastic can be interesting is it's bendy, I have a box turning tool to machine down lengths of nylon which elevates the problem. I have some black plastic that stinks of fish when drilled, sg iron seems to smell like rotten eggs, but in a pleasant way.
no but then what makes you think i can?? actually they dont change in time,the grain stays the same as does the figuring,these all help to identify the wood. if you work with it all the time as i have done then you get to know.
if your drill bit is glowing red hot whislt drilling im afraid you're doing something wrong.
Not anymore...that happened 20 years ago.I might still have that piece of wood somewhere though...I don't get to see too much exotic rare wood...but if I do I have no ideea what it is...
The birth rate in almost everywhere exept some parts of Africa is below replacement levels, Japan leads the way, but soon in many places a population collapse could be a serious problem.
Hint for the supply challenged and environmentalists (if you believe the planet can even be saved anymore)- Get yourself some hard maple. Rough shape it to a bit oversize of what you need. Soak it in hot molten paraffin, pulling a vacuum if you are able. Release vacuum while it's submerged. Cool. You now have a piece of paraffin impregnated hard maple that makes a surprisingly good bearing material. You can try other woods, and other lubricant blends.
Related- long ago I had an AR turntable. The bearings were thinwall shells lined with babbit. Long ago I found the company that probably made them on the 'net, but have never found them since. No idea if they still exist, but it's not hard to pour babbit bearings.
Related- long ago I had an AR turntable. The bearings were thinwall shells lined with babbit. Long ago I found the company that probably made them on the 'net, but have never found them since. No idea if they still exist, but it's not hard to pour babbit bearings.
Sintered bearings are common.
White metal in small diameter...try Kirloskar Bearings, mostly crankshaft sized in their range.
You need 8 - 10 mm ID for a table, max about 16.
White metal in small diameter...try Kirloskar Bearings, mostly crankshaft sized in their range.
You need 8 - 10 mm ID for a table, max about 16.
For wooden bearings, a seasoned, aged hard wood is better than a fresh or mildly aged wood.
Paraffin comes in many grades, from solid to liquid, please be specific.
Candles are paraffin wax, Vaseline is paraffin oil mixed with wax, and the gel used in ultra sound is paraffin oil, with very liittle wax.
In fact, it could be used a lube?
Paraffin comes in many grades, from solid to liquid, please be specific.
Candles are paraffin wax, Vaseline is paraffin oil mixed with wax, and the gel used in ultra sound is paraffin oil, with very liittle wax.
In fact, it could be used a lube?
That's how you find that the original brass bushing only missed the right oil change and perhaps a teflon ring replacing the nylon one.....but every exotic audiophile choice needs a life of its own..
Jamie, Have you considered producing a LV Thrust Pad for the SP10 MkII as an alternative to your recently produced Torlon part.
I do not recollect from my many researches on a Platter Spindle Bearing Overhaul, seeing a Thrust Pad produced in LV, used on a SP10.
I do not recollect from my many researches on a Platter Spindle Bearing Overhaul, seeing a Thrust Pad produced in LV, used on a SP10.
Google Sugano-san and his scouring of antique furniture for the Koetsu cartridge bodies🙂 Particularly the Rosewood....and the antique dealers must have shuddered when he arrived...lol
You are on the right track...;-)
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