That was an absolute bargain for PTFE. Just don't include PTFE swarf in roll-ups. It was discovered that smoked/inhaled PTFE is highly carcinogenic. Which makes you wonder slightly about solder suckers having PTFE tips.
It's not really a problem cause the melted solder cools down very fast not allowing teflon pass the 250 degrees celsius mark with correct handling.
I use No6 tips (600F or 316C), sometimes No7 (700F or 370C) in my Weller Magnastat, so the PTFE tip is definitely hotter when touched to the molten solder. But at least we're not actually setting fire to it and deliberately inhaling the smoke. One of these days I'll make a fume something or another system.
Incidentally, I was told at school (rather a long time ago) that machining Perspex/Plexiglass (methyl methacrylate) released cyanide. Haven't fallen dead over the lathe yet. Thoughts?
Styrenic fumes yes, but not enough to cause issues.
Cyanide is a new one, and I am 30 years old in plastic processing...
I knew a man who was in the canopy section of a helicopter factory, using acrylic monomer to cast it.
His lungs went rigid from that, died 10 years after retiring.
He was there nearly 30 years.
So not very alarming if you do it rarely.
Cyanide is a new one, and I am 30 years old in plastic processing...
I knew a man who was in the canopy section of a helicopter factory, using acrylic monomer to cast it.
His lungs went rigid from that, died 10 years after retiring.
He was there nearly 30 years.
So not very alarming if you do it rarely.
I wondered at the time. Styrenic fumes? Would that be the sweet smell? I'll settle for ten years after retiring.
Yes, the sweet fumes are from the monomer, acrylic is derived from styrene monomer.
Polystyrene, if heated, also smells similar.
I can tell what is being processed from the smell.
But that is not for everybody to know.
Polystyrene, if heated, also smells similar.
I can tell what is being processed from the smell.
But that is not for everybody to know.
Posted on the " My "maybe" revolutionary turntable design" thread.
"For magnetic levitation feets (even for high weights) check magaudio´s pages:
https://magaudio.de/magaudio-resonanzdaempfer/
I use them for my 36kg diy tt and they work fantastic"
"For magnetic levitation feets (even for high weights) check magaudio´s pages:
https://magaudio.de/magaudio-resonanzdaempfer/
I use them for my 36kg diy tt and they work fantastic"
It does appear the posts on this thread are more related to the materials that can be selected and the machining work that can be done for a range of TT's.
Hence I referenced the SP10 MkII.
The impressions that have been made on myself, by the experiencing the additional work carried out by another, where a material and machining has been required, is the main attraction. This is what I have enjoyed as the experience with owned Idler Drives over the past 20+ years, and this interest has now extended to the owned Direct Drive TT's.
It is difficult to have a long experience of regularly using an Analogue Source and not develop an interest in the Mechanical side of the operation and the Geometry requirement.
I don't recall any work produced and demonstrated being one that is unwanted, where a return to a previous design has been desired.
I do encourage others who have an interest in such modifications to experience work that has been carried out, or even try it for themselves.
There are quite affordable exchange parts available to try this depending on the TT that is owned. There are also a range of very expensive exchange parts on offer for certain TT Models, each are with a design intent, that suggests the part is to be an improved mechanical device over an original part used.
Some of the ideas under discussion for certain TT's are 'off the shelf' achievable.
I find it difficult to separate TT's from either of the Idler or DD Motor Drives that I have had regular access to, in relationship to how I enjoy them in use.
I enjoyed my Garrard 401 as much as my now owned PTP Solid Nine, and I enjoy the Idler Drive as much as the DD TT's.
Recognising where Enjoyment is to be found and carrying out Analysis of each systems and ancillaries strengths are quite different.
I attempt to avoid Analysis during my personal listening as the only listening criteria, even though I seem to be involved regular in supplying a critical ear for a few who do carry out modification work, or build electronic devices for a HiFi.
There is no harm in detecting and making a reference to where a perceived betterment has developed in a known device.
When listening in a personal space or with friends, I am much more content looking for the foot tapping or captivating influence that can be generated, this is more to do with the recording be presented in a manner that is capable of pressing on an emotion and being a stimulant. I suppose this is closely tied to my enjoying being present at live music events.
Hence I referenced the SP10 MkII.
The impressions that have been made on myself, by the experiencing the additional work carried out by another, where a material and machining has been required, is the main attraction. This is what I have enjoyed as the experience with owned Idler Drives over the past 20+ years, and this interest has now extended to the owned Direct Drive TT's.
It is difficult to have a long experience of regularly using an Analogue Source and not develop an interest in the Mechanical side of the operation and the Geometry requirement.
I don't recall any work produced and demonstrated being one that is unwanted, where a return to a previous design has been desired.
I do encourage others who have an interest in such modifications to experience work that has been carried out, or even try it for themselves.
There are quite affordable exchange parts available to try this depending on the TT that is owned. There are also a range of very expensive exchange parts on offer for certain TT Models, each are with a design intent, that suggests the part is to be an improved mechanical device over an original part used.
Some of the ideas under discussion for certain TT's are 'off the shelf' achievable.
I find it difficult to separate TT's from either of the Idler or DD Motor Drives that I have had regular access to, in relationship to how I enjoy them in use.
I enjoyed my Garrard 401 as much as my now owned PTP Solid Nine, and I enjoy the Idler Drive as much as the DD TT's.
Recognising where Enjoyment is to be found and carrying out Analysis of each systems and ancillaries strengths are quite different.
I attempt to avoid Analysis during my personal listening as the only listening criteria, even though I seem to be involved regular in supplying a critical ear for a few who do carry out modification work, or build electronic devices for a HiFi.
There is no harm in detecting and making a reference to where a perceived betterment has developed in a known device.
When listening in a personal space or with friends, I am much more content looking for the foot tapping or captivating influence that can be generated, this is more to do with the recording be presented in a manner that is capable of pressing on an emotion and being a stimulant. I suppose this is closely tied to my enjoying being present at live music events.
Quite a lot like that. I made my "new" plinth in 1993 but immediately found that although it (and more importantly, new arm) sounded nice, the bass was not as clean as from CD, and I noticed that if you pressed the edge of the platter, there was flex. Not in the platter, but in the chassis supporting the bearing. So I machined a nice 3" diameter bit of 1/4" aluminium that could grab the bottom of the 301 bearing (which would be moving from side to side) and added six 2BA screws through the aluminium into the 1/4" thick phenolic layer that was the lowest of the various layers of MDF and lead flashing that made up the (very heavy) plinth. There was no flex and the bass matched that of (good) CD.
Rigidly securing the Base of the Bearing Housing will have benefits for all TT's with a vertical axis thrust bearing.
The reduction in the base of the housing being exposed to a pendulum effect that can have a eccentric rotation will have benefits.
There are methods seen to tackle producing a improved rigidity to the Bearing Housing of which the base bracing is one method.
A Plinth that can support the chassis where flexion can occur is another method.
There are add on strengtheners that can be attached at the chassis / bearing connection, to attempt to reduce chassis flexion.
There is also the producing a chassis with a more substantial material, to start will a support structure that is very resistant to flexion.
A combination of a few methods if applicable, would also be a worthwhile method.
Again this is an area where my focus of attention does not take long to start interrogating on any TT.
It is also one of the easiest to be achieved, that I have encouraged others to try out.
DD's are with a little more complexity as some models will present PCB Electronics as being an obstruction
I do think that when looking at a Kuzma Design, the Company seems to have addressed the concerns that can be raised for a Typical VAT Bearing.
I like to think that the above modification route is one of the measures adopted, that leads to a condition where only the non eccentric condition to be found on a LP is the only eccentricity issue that can impact on the Styli Interface with the LP.
I am usually not too far behind in my encouraging, the idea of improving on the Spindles eccentricity in rotation within the Bearing Housing is one to be worked out in conjunction with the other measures being adopted.
The reduction in the base of the housing being exposed to a pendulum effect that can have a eccentric rotation will have benefits.
There are methods seen to tackle producing a improved rigidity to the Bearing Housing of which the base bracing is one method.
A Plinth that can support the chassis where flexion can occur is another method.
There are add on strengtheners that can be attached at the chassis / bearing connection, to attempt to reduce chassis flexion.
There is also the producing a chassis with a more substantial material, to start will a support structure that is very resistant to flexion.
A combination of a few methods if applicable, would also be a worthwhile method.
Again this is an area where my focus of attention does not take long to start interrogating on any TT.
It is also one of the easiest to be achieved, that I have encouraged others to try out.
DD's are with a little more complexity as some models will present PCB Electronics as being an obstruction
I do think that when looking at a Kuzma Design, the Company seems to have addressed the concerns that can be raised for a Typical VAT Bearing.
I like to think that the above modification route is one of the measures adopted, that leads to a condition where only the non eccentric condition to be found on a LP is the only eccentricity issue that can impact on the Styli Interface with the LP.
I am usually not too far behind in my encouraging, the idea of improving on the Spindles eccentricity in rotation within the Bearing Housing is one to be worked out in conjunction with the other measures being adopted.
I saw today some more brown and less redish wooden carved ellephants in an antique shop.As i knew the owner i asked to put one in a bowl of water.It sinked instantly.What do you think! Should i buy one?they ask about 3...4 buks for one.I might get one for 2 bucks though...
At that price, how can you go wrong? When I cut one of my bowls in half, the dust was slightly fragrant and the cut wood has a waxy feel with no strands - just as described in the book. More like sawing plastic. I've yet to machine it (have to do stuff for SWMBO).