How do you think small manufacturers and service techs would deal with something that was too long? The usual solution is called a hacksaw - cheap, quick and easy - maybe use a file to clean up any messy handwork too. 😉
Sawing the shaft down is no problem. Just hold the shaft in a vice and NOT the pot.
I wouldn't go so exotic tbh for something like this. Separate pots means that channel matching isn't an issue. Have a look at Vishay/Spectrol parts too.
Also, you don't have to use a log pot, and using a linear with a "law faking" resistor to get the "feel" of a log works well.
ESP - A Better Volume Control
I wouldn't go so exotic tbh for something like this. Separate pots means that channel matching isn't an issue. Have a look at Vishay/Spectrol parts too.
Also, you don't have to use a log pot, and using a linear with a "law faking" resistor to get the "feel" of a log works well.
ESP - A Better Volume Control
New Alps post installed 🙂 It appears to me that almost every small upgrade the sound improves. Even the pots have made a difference. Part of this is probably that the caps are breaking in with every hour of listening.
Any advice on what to do next. Leave well enough alone or I thought replace the aging diodes on the power supply for insurance. I have tried to id them and have had no luck. The manual has them as SH-1S, VD1221, SV21 and a 1T243M. Also a pair of 10D-2. Any suggestions for a replacements. I have attached an image of the board pre to the recap and resistor upgrade. Or maybe it's a transistor upgrade.
Any advice on what to do next. Leave well enough alone or I thought replace the aging diodes on the power supply for insurance. I have tried to id them and have had no luck. The manual has them as SH-1S, VD1221, SV21 and a 1T243M. Also a pair of 10D-2. Any suggestions for a replacements. I have attached an image of the board pre to the recap and resistor upgrade. Or maybe it's a transistor upgrade.
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Hard to know what to advise really. Those diodes look like glass passivated types. There will be many suitable replacements but I'm not sure you'll gain much tbh
Transistors... maybe... but more on the grounds that some ancient devices (such as those two in the pic) can have less than stellar reliability. Again I'm not so sure that would be good advice though, particularly if you haven't a scope and so on to check that all is well with any replacements.
I'd be inclined to enjoy it now that its all in a good state of repair 🙂
Transistors... maybe... but more on the grounds that some ancient devices (such as those two in the pic) can have less than stellar reliability. Again I'm not so sure that would be good advice though, particularly if you haven't a scope and so on to check that all is well with any replacements.
I'd be inclined to enjoy it now that its all in a good state of repair 🙂
Leave Well Enough Alone...
Research the threads on snubbing the diodes and power transformer, and that should be enough.
Dan.
Agreed.
Research the threads on snubbing the diodes and power transformer, and that should be enough.
Dan.
I would at least get rid of any VD1221's on that board. They are known to be problematic (as you have already seen) and can be replaced by two 1N4148's in series.
Steve.
Tweaking...
Electro caps C104/C204 470uF/10V are the NFB shunt caps.
These caps play a large part in 'voicing' an amp.
You could try replacing them with low ESR polarised or with bipolars....or shunt them with a low value solid cap (of differing types/dielectrics)...or both.
Have fun experimenting with this.
Dan.
Electro caps C104/C204 470uF/10V are the NFB shunt caps.
These caps play a large part in 'voicing' an amp.
You could try replacing them with low ESR polarised or with bipolars....or shunt them with a low value solid cap (of differing types/dielectrics)...or both.
Have fun experimenting with this.
Dan.
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