The unit I tested yesterday has stopped working. No click, no red led light when the momentary switch was activated.
Luckily I have a newer version very simular with a three legs led instead of a two legs red.
No mains power connected:
Between the two N terminals: O.L Between the two L terminals 0 ohm.
Mains power ON but momentary switch OFF:
Between the two 220 V in: 230V AC Between the two 220V out: 230v AC
The red led light up.
Momentary switch ON:
Between the two 220V in: 230V AC Between the two 220V out:230V AC.
The green led lights up. I can both hear/ feel the relay click with my finger tip.
The momentary switch OFF:
The red led lights up. A new click from the output relay was heard/felt
230v AC on both 220V in and out.
I will wait until Andrews comments to connect this unit to the V3 power unit.
Eivind S
Luckily I have a newer version very simular with a three legs led instead of a two legs red.
No mains power connected:
Between the two N terminals: O.L Between the two L terminals 0 ohm.
Mains power ON but momentary switch OFF:
Between the two 220 V in: 230V AC Between the two 220V out: 230v AC
The red led light up.
Momentary switch ON:
Between the two 220V in: 230V AC Between the two 220V out:230V AC.
The green led lights up. I can both hear/ feel the relay click with my finger tip.
The momentary switch OFF:
The red led lights up. A new click from the output relay was heard/felt
230v AC on both 220V in and out.
I will wait until Andrews comments to connect this unit to the V3 power unit.
Eivind S
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since that circuit is isolated from mains, you can test it for function....
mine is the forum soft starter ckt....
surely the traffo provided will have its primary dc resistance in the near thousand ohms.
can be on all the time. as long as the IEC mains connectors are plugged in....
didn't that come with documentation? i will not buy anything
without proper documentation so buyers beware....
mine is the forum soft starter ckt....
surely the traffo provided will have its primary dc resistance in the near thousand ohms.
can be on all the time. as long as the IEC mains connectors are plugged in....
didn't that come with documentation? i will not buy anything
without proper documentation so buyers beware....
i think all information is in your post #1....
you should be able to use this board......
in your ebay board one relay shorts out a bank of NTC's
while another relay opens the circuit in case of thermal overload,
this is the reason for two relays...2 heat sensors one for each channel
sink....
so one relay is operated normally open while the other is normally closed
found this in the net.....the difference is there is a delay from the time you push the switch, about a second, to the closing of the normally open relay....almost instantaneous.....
the unit is wired this way.....
you should be able to use this board......
in your ebay board one relay shorts out a bank of NTC's
while another relay opens the circuit in case of thermal overload,
this is the reason for two relays...2 heat sensors one for each channel
sink....
so one relay is operated normally open while the other is normally closed
found this in the net.....the difference is there is a delay from the time you push the switch, about a second, to the closing of the normally open relay....almost instantaneous.....
the unit is wired this way.....
with isolation transformer used, the momentary, normally open switch is in no danger of causing shocks......i have some....
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That means the connections are wrong, or that the added resistances have failed to zero ohms, or the bypassing relay is welded closed.
You will have to look under the PCB and see where the Live traces go. They should pass through the added resistances.
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The first photo is from the copperside of the "first" unit identical to the photo brought in the first post in this thread. Why this unit stopped to function after beeing connected to the transformer/powerbank of V3(Aleph J), I have no idea.
The second and third photo is the "newer version" taken from both sides. All measurement I brought in post 24 is taken from this unit(black).
The reason that resistance between the two L terminals = 0 ohm, is that they are connected to the same pad on the PCB
The second and third photo is the "newer version" taken from both sides. All measurement I brought in post 24 is taken from this unit(black).
The reason that resistance between the two L terminals = 0 ohm, is that they are connected to the same pad on the PCB
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"You are not doing yourself any favours, by ignoring help after you asked".
Andrew, I do not understand why you are saying this.
What help have I ignored?
I have tried the best I could to follow your advise doing the measurement I presented in post 24. There could be something I have misunderstood, but that is something very far from ignoring.
The resistance measurement you aked for was of course with no power connected.
"is the added resistor in the Neutral line"? Have any words fell out here, it does not give any meaning to me.
If you, Andrew, feel that you, for reasons I do not understand, cant help,I hope that other members can. It is wise to have in mind the fact that English is not my mother tongue.
Eivind S
Andrew, I do not understand why you are saying this.
What help have I ignored?
I have tried the best I could to follow your advise doing the measurement I presented in post 24. There could be something I have misunderstood, but that is something very far from ignoring.
The resistance measurement you aked for was of course with no power connected.
"is the added resistor in the Neutral line"? Have any words fell out here, it does not give any meaning to me.
If you, Andrew, feel that you, for reasons I do not understand, cant help,I hope that other members can. It is wise to have in mind the fact that English is not my mother tongue.
Eivind S
AJT
Have you studied the photos of the copper side. Did the photos "clear up" how this slow start work?
I have worked with other other soft starts before, but they cut 230V AC when the main switch is OFF,but with this unit 230 V AC can be measured on both 220V in and out all the time.
I assume that this kind of unit is used in TV (etc), where you activate full power using a remote. But using such a unit in a classe A amplifier with a high current runing all the time, I am not sure it is a "good idea".Don you have any comments on that?
Eivind S
Have you studied the photos of the copper side. Did the photos "clear up" how this slow start work?
I have worked with other other soft starts before, but they cut 230V AC when the main switch is OFF,but with this unit 230 V AC can be measured on both 220V in and out all the time.
I assume that this kind of unit is used in TV (etc), where you activate full power using a remote. But using such a unit in a classe A amplifier with a high current runing all the time, I am not sure it is a "good idea".Don you have any comments on that?
Eivind S
this is the power line side arrangement in your board,
it will show you how soft start is implemented....
so two relays operate in sequence,
when powering up, one after the other....
but when powering down, they turn off at the same time,
same with thermal cut-off, when preset temp is
detected, the 555 timer is toggled off...
two relays are de-energized....
it will show you how soft start is implemented....
so two relays operate in sequence,
when powering up, one after the other....
but when powering down, they turn off at the same time,
same with thermal cut-off, when preset temp is
detected, the 555 timer is toggled off...
two relays are de-energized....
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