So I searched for a while, followed your advices and stayed with one of Lazycat amplifier, as I think it's AB class. I would like to order parts today or tommorow, so can you tell me if it's good choice? How big pot should I put before the input? And can you answer my ;ast question about headphone output 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Last edited:
.... so can you tell me if it's good choice?
How big pot should I put before the input?
And can you answer my ;ast question about headphone output 🙂
regarding Lazy Cat's amps...he has good support ..... 😉
but be aware there may be many schematics floating around in his threads
for modern low impedance source output, a usual att pot on input for solid state amp would be 10-20K
but depends
I don't know his amps's in detail
why not ask him ?
regarding your about headphone output, we have a dedicated forum section for that
not sure, but you may have to use buffered attenuator
I dont know if its the right schematic you show
like said, there are several
just go there and talk to them...don't worry, they wont bite you 😀
I dont know if its the right schematic you show
like said, there are several
just go there and talk to them...don't worry, they wont bite you 😀
I'm getting only more and more confused... why should I use buffered attenuator and what's wrong with schematic?
I think 10K to ground on input sets the input impedance
if so, then it may not be suited for a passive pot on input, due to impedances
a very simple buffer between pot and amp input solves that
maybe you can mount bigger input resistor, but I don't know
and like I said, he may have 3 or 4 different threads, all with multiple different amp schematics
please talk to the man himself 🙂
btw, his latest and most simple amp may be just the thing for you...VSSA....or somthing like that
and there is even a cheaper BJT version of it too, somewhere...(not built yet, but I might be tempted 😀)
if so, then it may not be suited for a passive pot on input, due to impedances
a very simple buffer between pot and amp input solves that
maybe you can mount bigger input resistor, but I don't know
and like I said, he may have 3 or 4 different threads, all with multiple different amp schematics
please talk to the man himself 🙂
just go there and talk to them...don't worry, they wont bite you
btw, his latest and most simple amp may be just the thing for you...VSSA....or somthing like that
and there is even a cheaper BJT version of it too, somewhere...(not built yet, but I might be tempted 😀)
the best 50watt classAB will be very hard to beat for any amp
DIY, semi-DIY, Commercial ?
lets just say I would hate to see classD becoming the only alternative to classA
and that might happen
and that might happen
Isn't that the general distinction between an engineer, who tends to see the future as bright and promising, and a pessimist.
There was a time, when class A was the only alternative to class AB, and vice versa.
(the last decades also hatched intermediates, besides class D)
There was a time, when class A was the only alternative to class AB, and vice versa.
(the last decades also hatched intermediates, besides class D)
no, I'm just objecting to the fact that many think classA must always be the better amp, just by being classA
just like I would object if you suggested to burry tube amps for good 😀
are we still on topic ?
just like I would object if you suggested to burry tube amps for good 😀
are we still on topic ?
I talked with Lazy Cat, I will put 20k attenuator pot and replace the resistor to 20k. I'm ordering parts for VSSA.
ALF08NP16V5 - these are kind of odd transistors and I can't find them in Poland, except Farnell ( which is ordering them from UK...) and they are quite expensive, but I will live with it 😛
ALF08NP16V5 - these are kind of odd transistors and I can't find them in Poland, except Farnell ( which is ordering them from UK...) and they are quite expensive, but I will live with it 😛
great
I would suggest to use good heatsink
maybe the type with thin and profiled pressed in fins is good
I have never used them myself, but from spec sheet they appear to be very effective
but you may know a thing or two about computer stuff where they use 'fast' cooling....
I would suggest to use good heatsink
maybe the type with thin and profiled pressed in fins is good
I have never used them myself, but from spec sheet they appear to be very effective
but you may know a thing or two about computer stuff where they use 'fast' cooling....
Now I found out that i won't easily get this mosfets here in Poland... and even if I will, they won't be cheap...
its the reason I was looking at the other similar amp using tempco BJT instead of mosfets...easy to find, and cheap
but you might find these 'difficulties' with many other amp designs
but you might find these 'difficulties' with many other amp designs
I mistook farnell for some other site, which sold them for nearly 25$/1pc.. Farnell has "fair" price so there's no problem, i'm looking for other ones 🙂
Should I care if I order for example BC550CG or BC550C? Any difference?
Should I care if I order for example BC550CG or BC550C? Any difference?
Last edited:
The CG is probably the modern "green" (RHOS compliant) version. The other one probably is just an older part in stock and if available would be more expensive.I mistook farnell for some other site, which sold them for nearly 25$/1pc.. Farnell has "fair" price so there's no problem, i'm looking for other ones 🙂
Should I care if I order for example BC550CG or BC550C? Any difference?
Go for the CG, no problem.
Okay, and can you explain me what are these? I really can't find it out... i feel ultra-dumb
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Solid State
- Small Amp, Renioo Project