^Of course,, obviously you have that at home?
But we must now go with with this, with relections making dips at 55/110/200Hz. I can't see anything special in distortion.
However a single measurement doesn't tell much. To gain experience, play the drivers independently with and without eq and xo, at at least three different spl levels (at 1m eg. 95, 100, 105dB) When you see a peak in response, play sine wave of that frequency and listen to the speaker, you will most likely easily hear where sound comes (resonating box, wire, reflex port etc.). Then measure also other speakers that you have, to see how the new one performs compared to them.
It is waste of time to show all those measurements here. We usually pick only one or some that show a problem or verify the final outcome. When I got the UMIK-1, I measured horizontal polars and distortion from all my household's different speakers, even table radios in same installation ( pseudoanechoid), it was fun!
But we must now go with with this, with relections making dips at 55/110/200Hz. I can't see anything special in distortion.
However a single measurement doesn't tell much. To gain experience, play the drivers independently with and without eq and xo, at at least three different spl levels (at 1m eg. 95, 100, 105dB) When you see a peak in response, play sine wave of that frequency and listen to the speaker, you will most likely easily hear where sound comes (resonating box, wire, reflex port etc.). Then measure also other speakers that you have, to see how the new one performs compared to them.
It is waste of time to show all those measurements here. We usually pick only one or some that show a problem or verify the final outcome. When I got the UMIK-1, I measured horizontal polars and distortion from all my household's different speakers, even table radios in same installation ( pseudoanechoid), it was fun!
I noticed a mistake, I meant to say:
"When you see a peak in distortion, play sine wave of that frequency and listen to the speaker, you will most likely easily hear where sound comes (resonating box, wire, reflex port etc.). "
"When you see a peak in distortion, play sine wave of that frequency and listen to the speaker, you will most likely easily hear where sound comes (resonating box, wire, reflex port etc.). "
I decided to build a pair of speakers with this drivers:
Bass = 2 X SW26DBAC76-8
Mid = SATORI MW16PNW-4
Tweeter = SATORI TW29R-B
Bass drivers it will be in a sealed 20 liters Box
Midrange it will be in 5 liters sealed box
Amp + DSP = Hypex FA503
I have some questions:
Do you think the drivers are well chosen?
SPL from midrange it will be enough, or I need two ?
I'm missing something ... ?
Thanks!
Bass = 2 X SW26DBAC76-8
Mid = SATORI MW16PNW-4
Tweeter = SATORI TW29R-B
Bass drivers it will be in a sealed 20 liters Box
Midrange it will be in 5 liters sealed box
Amp + DSP = Hypex FA503
I have some questions:
Do you think the drivers are well chosen?
SPL from midrange it will be enough, or I need two ?
I'm missing something ... ?
Thanks!
Hello Alex,
You wont regeret those subs! I use them in 19l. With dsp it is fine, but if i did a rebuild i woul probably try going with 22-25 🙂
A friend of mine use that midrange and tweeter (i My change to that tweeter too.) they sound absolutely amazing together! Pretty sure he cross at 200 or higher for the bas though.. I cross at 180 with my side mounted subs. Works great!
You wont regeret those subs! I use them in 19l. With dsp it is fine, but if i did a rebuild i woul probably try going with 22-25 🙂
A friend of mine use that midrange and tweeter (i My change to that tweeter too.) they sound absolutely amazing together! Pretty sure he cross at 200 or higher for the bas though.. I cross at 180 with my side mounted subs. Works great!
Looks good to me; the tweeter is about 92 dB sensitivity so I'm guessing just one mid would have enough output. I am using the MR16P-4 and am extremely happy with it. If you wanted to cross-over at 200 Hz or higher, you could choose that instead of the MW (depends on how loud you need them to go at their lowest frequency).
SPL
2 X Low = 110dB
Mid = 106 dB
Tweeter = 111 dB
Low: SW26DBAC76-8
Mid: SATORI MW16PNW-4
Tweeter: SATORI TW29R-B
Am I wrong ?
2 X Low = 110dB
Mid = 106 dB
Tweeter = 111 dB
Low: SW26DBAC76-8
Mid: SATORI MW16PNW-4
Tweeter: SATORI TW29R-B
Am I wrong ?
Well, you "COULD" go with two 8 Ohm mids. in parallel obviously. I'm just guessing you won't need to UNLESS, you tend to listen at very loud levels and/or have a very large room. Until I got over about 50 years old; I usually had to to pad down the tweeter by a few dB. I do my X/O and attenuation settings mostly by ear these days with music and set everything for my personal preference. Are you going to "fine tune" the match between drivers with test equipment, calibrated microphones, software, etc? If so, you could add the second mid which would give you more "SPL matching options". I agree you should use the MW instead of the MR for your 100 Hz X/O.
It does get tricky here. If you REALLY want to know what's going on with the FR/SPL; you need to get 3rd party testing results. I have read a few on both MR and MW. SPL +6dB voltage sensitivity but in reality; 3 dB in power for parallel. Can your amplifiers do 2 Ohms??? In practice, I have found that +6 dB voltage sensitivity does not necessarily mean +3 dB power gain; theory is great on paper; that's why I experiment a lot. Best advice is to get those with test equipment and software simulations that are known to be ACCURATE to chime in here. I trust my ears; BUT, others ONLY trust pure theory...all for now...good luck...
Sorry, I now realize this may be confusing; I was way past sleepy when I wrote this last response. The short answer is, when you parallel two identical drivers; the voltage sensitivity increases by 6 dB. So, 2 of the 8 Ohm MW in parallel should be about 94 dB VOLTAGE sensitivity. BUT, the tricky part is you are asking about the maximum SPL expected; this is usually done by precision measurement or very accurate simulations. I assume you want a very loud system or you wouldn't be asking in this manner. Some of the tests and reviews include a power type test where they gradually increase the drive voltage and record the ever increasing distortion levels. If you REALLY want maximum sensitivity, you could parallel two of the 4 Ohm MW's BUT then you would only have 2 Ohms and most amplifiers don't like a load that low. If it were me; I would choose one 4 Ohm MW "mid" and pad the tweeter to match SPL's with that. That is just my personal take. Again; best of luck!
Accuton C173-6-191E vs. SATORI MW16PNW-8
for 100Hz-3KHz band
Did anyone hear them?
Which is Better?
for 100Hz-3KHz band
Did anyone hear them?
Which is Better?
C173-6-191E has a terrible motor. The Satori's, on the other hand, is one of the best in the world.
Is there any difference between these two speakers?
Wavecor SW223BD03
SB Acoustics SB23MFCL45-8
I want to put two in a closed box (18 Liters total)
Wavecor SW223BD03
SB Acoustics SB23MFCL45-8
I want to put two in a closed box (18 Liters total)
Hello Alex,
Sorry to be such a whooz, but this projekt i still ongoing..
Would it be to much trouble for you to create a thread for your own projekt?
🙂
Sorry to be such a whooz, but this projekt i still ongoing..
Would it be to much trouble for you to create a thread for your own projekt?
🙂
Finally Stereo and great sound!
Finally!
I finished the second speaker!!! 😀😀
I also got to do some outdoor measurements, trying not to bother my neighbors too much xD
And i am very, VERY ******* happy with the result, both looks and sound! 😀😀
The final result is this:
Tweeter - SB SATORI TW29RN-B - In home made 140mm WG
Midwoofer - SB SATORI MW19P04 - In13.2l aperiodic enclosure
Subwoofers - 2 x SB SW26DBAC76-8 - Two drivers sharing 18-19l sealed enclosure. The 18l is with bracing subtracted, but NOT with driver displacement subtracted.
Amplifier - FA253
Mid and high crossed with Harsch crossover at 1700Hz
Mid and low crossed with LR24 crossover at 180Hz
And this is what the pair looks like:
Finally!
I finished the second speaker!!! 😀😀
I also got to do some outdoor measurements, trying not to bother my neighbors too much xD
And i am very, VERY ******* happy with the result, both looks and sound! 😀😀
The final result is this:
Tweeter - SB SATORI TW29RN-B - In home made 140mm WG
Midwoofer - SB SATORI MW19P04 - In13.2l aperiodic enclosure
Subwoofers - 2 x SB SW26DBAC76-8 - Two drivers sharing 18-19l sealed enclosure. The 18l is with bracing subtracted, but NOT with driver displacement subtracted.
Amplifier - FA253
Mid and high crossed with Harsch crossover at 1700Hz
Mid and low crossed with LR24 crossover at 180Hz
And this is what the pair looks like:
Attachments
"Final" Measurments
And for the "final" (As i that ever happens xD) measurments!
They were done outdoor like this:
The speaker was raised 145cm above ground. Meaning that the center of the subwoofers were 177cm off ground. Center of the mid 205cm and tweeter 220 cm.
The microphone was placed at 1m and pointing at tweeter.
Here are the on axis response with phase and minimum phase (What is this even showing compared to normal phase?):
And the corresponding step response:
And distortion (values in the bottom are for 1kHz):
And finally some off axis measurements. They start at 0 degrees and end at 80ish degrees in roughly equal steps.. I had no way to do it accurately:
And for the "final" (As i that ever happens xD) measurments!
They were done outdoor like this:
The speaker was raised 145cm above ground. Meaning that the center of the subwoofers were 177cm off ground. Center of the mid 205cm and tweeter 220 cm.
The microphone was placed at 1m and pointing at tweeter.
Here are the on axis response with phase and minimum phase (What is this even showing compared to normal phase?):
And the corresponding step response:
And distortion (values in the bottom are for 1kHz):
And finally some off axis measurements. They start at 0 degrees and end at 80ish degrees in roughly equal steps.. I had no way to do it accurately:
Attachments
Very impressive!
What is the grill in the back a vent for - a driver? air duct for the amp?
Interesting set of bass drivers, where do you divide between the bass and mid/bass?
What is the grill in the back a vent for - a driver? air duct for the amp?
Interesting set of bass drivers, where do you divide between the bass and mid/bass?
cph2000# Thanks! 😀
The grill is just hiding a port stuffed with dampening material - Creating the aperiodic enclosure for the middriver. 🙂
Yes, they are not so commonly used on here, but helped by the DSP they pack a serious punch in a VERY small box! No boomy subwoofer here!! 😀