curly birds eye maple = nice, post some pics!!
yeah i want these to look tenor ampish. not the top hardwood they have just sculptured front with a blue led lit push on switch to turn soft starts on.
i've gone through 10 ft or $164 worth and not happy yet. when i have something to be proud of i will, just not there yet. chassis are aprox 12 wide x 17 deep.
and at 6" high it took 3 builds to get the scale right i was after. first was 15 wide but looked too square. settled on 12 which makes them look like big solid blocks.
I worked for GE plastics - instrument engineer. But the toxins
were all around me (even above me 😱) read every MSDS in the place.
Automotive stores will have the acid in a cardboard box (plastic bag inside).
Baking soda is everywhere.
Contact cement can block acid very well (liquid neoprene).
Nitrile gloves are best for dilute sulfuric.
The "fumes" would be H2 (explosive - ventilate well).
Your anodized finish would be aluminum sulfate (plus a dye ?).
The anodized surface actually is a bunch of microscopic "holes"
Fill these holes with thermal paste (ZNO)= better conduction.
Empty "holes" on the radiator side also have greater emissivity.
(you increase surface area with the holes).
PS - I can "cook" anything , but I don't .... I have been asked 🙁.
OS
were all around me (even above me 😱) read every MSDS in the place.
Automotive stores will have the acid in a cardboard box (plastic bag inside).
Baking soda is everywhere.
Contact cement can block acid very well (liquid neoprene).
Nitrile gloves are best for dilute sulfuric.
The "fumes" would be H2 (explosive - ventilate well).
Your anodized finish would be aluminum sulfate (plus a dye ?).
The anodized surface actually is a bunch of microscopic "holes"
Fill these holes with thermal paste (ZNO)= better conduction.
Empty "holes" on the radiator side also have greater emissivity.
(you increase surface area with the holes).
PS - I can "cook" anything , but I don't .... I have been asked 🙁.
OS
wonder about the dye, where to get, what colours available?, brown would blend well with wood but I have never seen brown anodize before. additive? usually when you mix paint brown is easy to obtain!Your anodized finish would be aluminum sulfate (plus a dye ?).
Anodizing Dyes - Anodizing Products - Electroplating & Anodizing - Caswell Inc
They even have kits/instructions/tips.
OS
They even have kits/instructions/tips.
OS
I would bet you have seen brown anodizing and just didn't think about it. Many commercial building have brown anodized window and door frames.
thx guys!! okay i guess i mean brown heatsinks 🙂
tyg gkf, you could be the first one with brown heatsinks 🙂
tyg gkf, you could be the first one with brown heatsinks 🙂
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These are electrostatic paint, not anodized parts.I would bet you have seen brown anodizing and just didn't think about it. Many commercial building have brown anodized window and door frames.
got my hexfets yesterday and some components so let the board build begin.
terry i emailed you twice and no reply
did you get my pm?
terry i emailed you twice and no reply
did you get my pm?
got my hexfets yesterday and some components so let the board build begin.
terry i emailed you twice and no reply
did you get my pm?
But I think, you were going to go ahead with the originat BJT version of the OPS, aren't you?
Terry
Me thinks perhaps you were right after all, I'm not sure.
That screaming what ever the name is, Honey Badger amp.
So here is my delema....
I've got other things I can work on than the honey badger amp
from the ground up.
Even then I'd still want to build the top CFA C or X or CXn?
Don't have money to waste on something going to sit somewhere,
turn around and build the next project amp....and turn those.
However, I have an new crappy dennon that I hate, got new at
a cheap price but it just up and quit working after 2 or 3 mos.
THEN
What I've really wanted to work on which is sitting around is a
the following McIntosh first generation Solid State gear:
Pre amp
Amplifier
Also a Marantz Tuner.
All of them have the same channel not working fried.
I don't know if was lightening residual with took the
stuff out or something on one of them, took out the rest.
As I started with the preamp...many parts were no longer
available. Then the thought if you repair only one side
of each, that side will sound different than the other side
which may also fail.
So then I've got to upgrade all the transistors...
who really wants to listen to first generation solid state?
who want to have Left and Right channels sound differently?
I'm still lacking in Solid State knowledge ...
Hence the delema.
I'm sure there are better ICs than the NTE catelog and I'd like
to rebuild those units...just don't know how yet or how to ID
match the good ICs that will make that old McIntosh gear sound
it's best.
I still don't even know what board designations I need for the K-C.
Me thinks perhaps you were right after all, I'm not sure.
That screaming what ever the name is, Honey Badger amp.
So here is my delema....
I've got other things I can work on than the honey badger amp
from the ground up.
Even then I'd still want to build the top CFA C or X or CXn?
Don't have money to waste on something going to sit somewhere,
turn around and build the next project amp....and turn those.
However, I have an new crappy dennon that I hate, got new at
a cheap price but it just up and quit working after 2 or 3 mos.
THEN
What I've really wanted to work on which is sitting around is a
the following McIntosh first generation Solid State gear:
Pre amp
Amplifier
Also a Marantz Tuner.
All of them have the same channel not working fried.
I don't know if was lightening residual with took the
stuff out or something on one of them, took out the rest.
As I started with the preamp...many parts were no longer
available. Then the thought if you repair only one side
of each, that side will sound different than the other side
which may also fail.
So then I've got to upgrade all the transistors...
who really wants to listen to first generation solid state?
who want to have Left and Right channels sound differently?
I'm still lacking in Solid State knowledge ...
Hence the delema.
I'm sure there are better ICs than the NTE catelog and I'd like
to rebuild those units...just don't know how yet or how to ID
match the good ICs that will make that old McIntosh gear sound
it's best.
I still don't even know what board designations I need for the K-C.
But I think, you were going to go ahead with the originat BJT version of the OPS, aren't you?
yes you are correct
i ordered these way too soon when i knew very lttle. so at aprox $30 for the 20 i didn't care.
i now have the 20 mjl version in bjt class on the way. these were like $160 for 20 and these will be keepers.
happy easter everyone
guys
i got a few items in today slow but moving forward
got my last 10" heatsink
my new mjl bjt mosfets
and my bridge rectifiers
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20build.jpg.html]
i got a few items in today slow but moving forward
got my last 10" heatsink
my new mjl bjt mosfets
and my bridge rectifiers
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20build.jpg.html]
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[/URL]Just to ensure we avoid any confusion make sure from this point forward you drop any reference to MOSFETs as you are using BJTs. They are both types of transistor but are very different in construction and operational characteristics. If you use the terms incorrectly you may get incorrect references or advice during your build and end up with issues. Your build will be completely made of Bipolar Junction Transistors (AKA the BJT), without a MOSFET in sight 😉.
yes for sure sorry for that
to all looking at this the bjt i decided to go with are
mjl4302a and mjl4201a x 10 each
to all looking at this the bjt i decided to go with are
mjl4302a and mjl4201a x 10 each
yes for sure sorry for that
to all looking at this the bjt i decided to go with are
mjl4302a and mjl4201a x 10 each
Yes, those should be a good choice for your output transistors. You will want a set of relatively fast low capacitance drivers for the best results. I suggest you get some Sanken 2SA1186 / 2SC2837 for that duty unless someone else has some better suggestions. These are fast, low Cob devices that will be able to drive the full output stage properly.
guys today the pile gets a little bigger
i got one 10" heatsink into 2 and will bolt together with other 2 sinks to make 15" x 6"
also i got the soft start all built
i received the led push on switchs
and the speaker 5 way binding post
2 power trans 12v out for soft start
and finally the caps 60000uf per mono block
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20build%20parts.jpg.html]
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20caps.jpg.html]
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20soft%20start%20trans.jpg.html]
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20soft%20start.jpg.html]
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20build%20speaker%205%20way.jpg.html]
i got one 10" heatsink into 2 and will bolt together with other 2 sinks to make 15" x 6"
also i got the soft start all built
i received the led push on switchs
and the speaker 5 way binding post
2 power trans 12v out for soft start
and finally the caps 60000uf per mono block
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20build%20parts.jpg.html]
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[/URL]http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20caps.jpg.html]
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[/URL]http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20soft%20start%20trans.jpg.html]
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[/URL]http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20soft%20start.jpg.html]
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[/URL]http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20build%20speaker%205%20way.jpg.html]
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[/URL]guys today the pile gets a little bigger
i got one 10" heatsink into 2 and will bolt together with other 2 sinks to make 15" x 6"
also i got the soft start all built
i received the led push on switchs
and the speaker 5 way binding post
2 power trans 12v out for soft start
and finally the caps 60000uf per mono block
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20build%20parts.jpg.html][/URL]
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20caps.jpg.html][/URL]
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20soft%20start%20trans.jpg.html][/URL]
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20soft%20start.jpg.html][/URL]
http://[URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/91owner/media/Slew%20Monster%20Amp%20Build/slew%20monster%20build%20speaker%205%20way.jpg.html][/URL]
You're getting closer. Did your transformers ever appear?
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