N power JFet testing
for THF51-S , body is drain ( no need for isolation for test , just keep heatsink electrically from other voltage potentials , other than + rail), fat protruding pin is source,while thin protruding pin is gate
again , any power N channel JFet , having ebough cojones , and having gate voltage in range of -1 to -3V6 is adequate for SissySIT circuit
if you sort your P channel mosfets , and use those with highish gate voltage (for -19 to -25V and Iq 1A8 to 2A) , in area of -4V5 , JFet can have even -4V gate voltage for intended conditions
have more questions , shoot
voltage source of some 20-25Vdc , capable of delivering at least 3A (you can borrow positive rail of your existing Papamp, if you have one ) ...... goal Iq is 2A
what the heck , you can use 19V power brick ,either from your ACA or your laptop
plain 9V battery for gate voltage (connected to gnd of above , to be negative)
10K pot or trimpot for setting that gate voltage
1K gate resistor
some kind of heatsink , best to have 8-12cm fan cooling it all the time of test ...... just to prevent temp. build up ..... you can use main rail for it , just reg it down to fan voltage .....or use 24V fan
ampermeter (one DMM)
gate voltage meter (second DMM)
have all that ?
if yes, I'll draw schm
for THF51-S , body is drain ( no need for isolation for test , just keep heatsink electrically from other voltage potentials , other than + rail), fat protruding pin is source,while thin protruding pin is gate
again , any power N channel JFet , having ebough cojones , and having gate voltage in range of -1 to -3V6 is adequate for SissySIT circuit
if you sort your P channel mosfets , and use those with highish gate voltage (for -19 to -25V and Iq 1A8 to 2A) , in area of -4V5 , JFet can have even -4V gate voltage for intended conditions
have more questions , shoot
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voltage source of some 20-25Vdc , capable of delivering at least 3A (you can borrow positive rail of your existing Papamp, if you have one ) ...... goal Iq is 2A
what the heck , you can use 19V power brick ,either from your ACA or your laptop
plain 9V battery for gate voltage (sonnested to gnd of above , to be negative)
10K pot or trimpot for setting that gate voltage
1K gate resistor
some kind of heatsink , best to have 8-12cm fan cooling it all the time of test ...... just to prevent temp. build up ..... you can use main rail for it , just reg it down to fan voltage .....or use 24V fan
ampermeter (one DMM)
gate voltage meter (second DMM)
have all that ?
if yes, I'll draw schm
Check...(and waits for slow boat from Asia while wondering what “sonnested” means...perhaps it’s from ZM dictionary like trampolinea?)
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Google knew what you meant even if a gringo like myself didn’t...thanks for the diagram...will tuck it away for when the big bugs arrive
Are these still being manufactured? There seems to be several sellers on eBay...don't want to miss out.
They are NOS with no replacements on the horizon. I bought some from
Tomoaki, and he is a reliable supplier.
look what Santa ....
bummer is that I got just 25pcs of ACS (Hall) chips
ookup at Digikey side
will have 75 more in bloody 3 weeks from now .....
anyway , pcbs in no less than 7 days , so train is slowly , but surely rolling
🙂
so , besides plenty of tiny parts , these are most important newcomers ... 1K of 2SK2145BL and 250 of Elna Silmisc II 22u/25V 🙂
bummer is that I got just 25pcs of ACS (Hall) chips
ookup at Digikey side
will have 75 more in bloody 3 weeks from now .....
anyway , pcbs in no less than 7 days , so train is slowly , but surely rolling
🙂
so , besides plenty of tiny parts , these are most important newcomers ... 1K of 2SK2145BL and 250 of Elna Silmisc II 22u/25V 🙂
Attachments
Oh we are spoiled aren’t we?...thanks JPS that is the perfect solution to my paranoid OCD in my head saying “is this right?...am I doing it right?”
tnx JPS
that's easily done even with exacto knife and metal ruler
edit- batery switch is big no-no ........... better to pull battery out when not using entire shebang , than forgetting to engage switch to on , while having THF energized
that's easily done even with exacto knife and metal ruler
edit- batery switch is big no-no ........... better to pull battery out when not using entire shebang , than forgetting to engage switch to on , while having THF energized
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7mA per case , 12V6 , less than 90mW
So you need the 27R degen to linearise ?
Patrick
Xformers for SissySIT
#60 , Babelfish M25 , AKA M2 on steroids , AKA M2-XA25 bstrd
for Edcor , you have Don Audio locally
didn't checked for Jensen
for Cinemags , found some in Europe (probably also Don Audio) but no type needed in stock
contact Cinemag directly , it'll be around 50+30$, for pair at your doors
Which model of the cinemag transformers is compatible with the sissysit boards?
#60 , Babelfish M25 , AKA M2 on steroids , AKA M2-XA25 bstrd
2. practically 4 options for signal autoformer (pinouts for all present on pcb):
-Edcor PC series 600:15K (same one as in original M2) , thus having gain of 6V/V
-Edcor PC series 600:600 , thus having gain of 4V/V (edit - only for this one it'll be needed few exacto cuts of traces and few tiny wire bridges soldering ;same physical layout of pins as previous one , but different electrical connection needed ..... very hard to accommodate without too much complication )
- Jensen JT-123-FLCPH (same one as in F6) , thus having gain of 4V/V
-Cinemag CMOQ-4LPC (same one as in SIT-3) , thus having gain of 4V/V
for Edcor , you have Don Audio locally
didn't checked for Jensen
for Cinemags , found some in Europe (probably also Don Audio) but no type needed in stock
contact Cinemag directly , it'll be around 50+30$, for pair at your doors
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They are NOS with no replacements on the horizon. I bought some from
Tomoaki, and he is a reliable supplier.
Should I request any certain specs, or are they good to go whatever ships? Much thanks for the response.
Russellc
well , Moi not exactly being Pa ......... but I wrote few times that I believe any THF51-S you get , will be happy in SissySIT circ
oh yes , clasical repeater , 4 times 150 Ohms
it'll fit like a glove
hoverer , doesn't matter how high Lundahl is rated , don't be so sure that Lundahl could be any better sound-wise than , say, Cinemag
I didn't tried , but from previous experience , sometimes ancient iron was superior to Lundahls (same type , same circuit) .......
so - who knows why is that good ...... that you sold them
🙂
it'll fit like a glove
hoverer , doesn't matter how high Lundahl is rated , don't be so sure that Lundahl could be any better sound-wise than , say, Cinemag
I didn't tried , but from previous experience , sometimes ancient iron was superior to Lundahls (same type , same circuit) .......
so - who knows why is that good ...... that you sold them
🙂
This project really sucked me in, Tokins are on the way, i'll measure them and if i'm lucky they'll drop right in.
Just how hot do these things run, could i get by with a 3U Dissipante chassis from Hifi-2000 you reckon?
Just how hot do these things run, could i get by with a 3U Dissipante chassis from Hifi-2000 you reckon?
even if you decide to open the window (Sweden one , in a middle of winter) , while your cojones go freeze off , 3HE is not going to cut it
at least not in summer time
be a man ! go for 5U/400

at least not in summer time
be a man ! go for 5U/400

I have a bunch of raw HeatsinkUSA units that are 12”X7”X1”. Their description on the site says:
Quality extruded aluminum heatsink
Alloy: 6063-T6
Width is 12.000"
Fin Height is 1"
Base Height is .300"
Weight is approximately .60 lbs per inch
C/W/3": approximately .85
Think they’ll cut it with this project?
Quality extruded aluminum heatsink
Alloy: 6063-T6
Width is 12.000"
Fin Height is 1"
Base Height is .300"
Weight is approximately .60 lbs per inch
C/W/3": approximately .85
Think they’ll cut it with this project?
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