Thanks Salas.C6/8 should be 470uF. 100uF is too little since those positions serve a noise filtering purpose that must be effective down to the lows. C4 can be 3.3uF also.
Quan
The 2SK369BL and 2SK170's provided are all measured and marked.
The 2SK369BL's will go from 10mv-14mv marked to the .01v as actually
measured under my bench conditions. They should be well matched. Other numbers are certainly there for index sorting on a spreadsheet to give best match.
Dont forget to order the correct R2,R3 resistors in accordance to the build guide. They are not included in my Riaa minikits.
The 2SK170BLs need to be placed accordance to build guide.
Q4 for the one measured between 8.2-8.5, Q5 is between 7.5-8.2, Q6 measures usually above 9mv, but certainly greater than Q4 as specified.
Hi Tea Bag,
I sent my inquiry prior mini-kit arrival just to be 100% sure.
Now I got it and I see how well its organized. Thank you.
All 2SK369BL's measured and I see all results clearly.
As my 2sk389's from Teabag are matched at 11.6 should I use 4.7R resistors or stick to 3.9R as recommended for 11mv.
TIA
Marra
TIA
Marra
denon dl110
Hi. Should i use R2=68r R13=5.6k for Denon DL110? The manual states to use the values i mentioned earlier for HOMC but the output of DL110 is 1.6mV
Hi. Should i use R2=68r R13=5.6k for Denon DL110? The manual states to use the values i mentioned earlier for HOMC but the output of DL110 is 1.6mV
It has been measured higher than stated by technical reviewers in the past. No wonder it drives most MM phonos satisfactorily. Its compliance is ~25 for arms active mass resonance calculations.
P.S. Spend some time listening to it with the range of lower than 47K DIP switch settings recommended for HOMC also. You may find a sweet spot for your system.
P.S. Spend some time listening to it with the range of lower than 47K DIP switch settings recommended for HOMC also. You may find a sweet spot for your system.
I have read somewhere that loading value for dl110 is between 1k and 10k for optimum results. I actually used 4.7k in my modded VLPS and liked the way it sounded
It may ask a bit different load for best synergy with the folded or not. The DIP switch will be quite handy for that. You may populate with 4.7K its first position since you got a reference already.
Do they fit the holes? If not, you may cut the legs sort enough and solder on the pad's top side surface.
The leads fit the holes but the body length is slightly bigger so i'll bend the leads on the underside of the body to fit.
For C1x im gonna use Pana FC 100v 470uf and for C2x mkp1839 4.7uf.
Any opinions on these?
For C1x im gonna use Pana FC 100v 470uf and for C2x mkp1839 4.7uf.
Any opinions on these?
Not bad at all. Still for C1x you may order a couple of Nichicon Muse KZ and/or Elna Silmic II and swap for a future comparison after the build will be run in, the cart load and TT details final, and you familiar. Just for fun and evaluation.
Ok last question for today: I have some Black Gate STD 330uf 50v. I understand that C1x has noise filtering purpose. If i use the BG will i be compromising the performance of the circuit?
Ok last question for today: I have some Black Gate STD 330uf 50v. I understand that C1x has noise filtering purpose. If i use the BG will i be compromising the performance of the circuit?
Not perceptibly. 330uF is near enough to 470uF for that purpose in that position. But do measure them because they are old production. Electrolytics with raised dissipation factor show unusually low uF reading below their nominal tolerance for instance.
transformers.
There was a time when the thought was you could not have too much storage capacitance in a power supply.
Then there came the revisionists who found that too much slowed down the supply and made the supplied circuit sound sluggish.
I was surmising that something like this could just as easily apply to transformers and we, me, most of all included, should consider all aspects of a component.
Nothing easier than buying the biggest transformer you can find and being able to rest assured that THAT is done. Unfortunately, I bet it is NOT than easy.
Nobody wants an easy upgrade more than I, in fact, I want them too badly and can easily lead myself into delusion. The tweak I want to work so badly that I believe it more than can hear it.
When Mr. Salas dismissed the over-specified transformers my comment was trying to see from his perspective. The more I thought about it the more it occurred to me that some of my audio shibboleths are just that.
The irony is the only way to know is to build the circuit and insert a variety of transformers OF THE SAME VOLTAGE but of varying VA and listen to each one long enough to really get its measure.
Being a lazy man I will begin with the ANTEK 100 VA and stick with that until my ear/brain wants to hear something slightly different.
Sorry my post was not clear. But I feel confident, as with everything else, there is a best point on the curve. I will be happy just getting close to it.
Here is an interesting link (from AA) giving a good explanation why a larger-VA transformer sounds better:
Well, Abe... - 1973shovel - Tweakers' Asylum
Regards,
Andy
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