I meant in your stash Andrew. What is roughly the most common IDSS in your GR population? DT probably has some renegades mixed in it seems because his median is 3.8mA as he wrote. Those 52 strong pcs push his mean.
For me copper is more warm & round, alu is more analytic & cold, as always all depends what kind of sound are you looking for, of course the final sound is a combination of components, layout, etc.
Now I have in mind to change in the RIAA the 47nF 200VDC teflon film & alu foil for 47nF 1000vdc teflon film & tin foil, the voltage also counts....
Your build must be reaching 2000 Euro in raw components cost by now including boxing, cabling, and everything, and those items you have changed meantime.
Only the output Mundorfs you just ordered are 200 Euro. I hope you really enjoy the sound.
Only the output Mundorfs you just ordered are 200 Euro. I hope you really enjoy the sound.
I haven't got any other hobby, I have a lot of old components that now I sold & help to buy news, don't think I'm rich man, I only want to try: for example RIAA caps I'm 75% sure will sound better the thin foil than alu foil due tto the big VDC difference between caps, I enjoy trying different components & I assure you that mine subjective opinion is not conditioned for a big price: for example till few months ago mine prefered resistor was Shinkoh over naked Vishay, but not exist the prefect resistor for all positions everbody can try & choose the right components in the right side.
BG PSU filter caps old project = 0 eur
LSK389BL extracted two old Piccolo / Hagerman phono = 0 eur
Some BG N & FK old projects = 0 eur
N.B. Do you have a very good calculator😉 but I pursuit better sound I don't calculate if cost less or more I'm not a manufacturer I'm a dyer thanks to you.
BG PSU filter caps old project = 0 eur
LSK389BL extracted two old Piccolo / Hagerman phono = 0 eur
Some BG N & FK old projects = 0 eur
N.B. Do you have a very good calculator😉 but I pursuit better sound I don't calculate if cost less or more I'm not a manufacturer I'm a dyer thanks to you.
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I am not saying you are rich or you are spending without concept or you don't have a stash of components to move around. But if you think for a moment, my estimation must be roughly correct. When you will finish with components knowledge I guess you will then get a Shelter or a Transfiguration. You can't possibly stop, he he.😀
P.S. Getting something from an old project does not mean you did not originally buy it. Saying cost=0 if recycled, proves you have become a DIYer. The experiment above all.
P.S. Getting something from an old project does not mean you did not originally buy it. Saying cost=0 if recycled, proves you have become a DIYer. The experiment above all.
eh, eh, one thing is buy one or a couple of hundred euros & another thing is to buy the heaven (Transfiguration or Shelter) but I suspect there are litlle differences with Denon DL103R & the expensive price is justified? just remember I owned a Linn Arkiv between 2.000 & 3.000€00.....
The truth is that Merlin is still at half the price of an equiv commercial RIAA. Plus he can fix it so no service calls.....
Some say the 103R has the most coherence anyway, but I think although boxing far above its weight, then is the top Shelter, then the Transfiguration, then the top dollar handful of myths.
I tweaked several high-end for me & for mine friends:
CD transports: Teac P700, CEC TL-1, etc
Tube amps: Jadis JA80
Pre amps changing volume control for stepped attenuators, output caps, etc
So is a long way do it & learned how sounds each component depending where used.
I'm not in competition with commercial products, here in our DIY world exist the pleasure to share, learn & enjoy with all the community & that's it's for me same important than do & very good phono, if I know you before for sure I saved a lot of money buying commercial products.
CD transports: Teac P700, CEC TL-1, etc
Tube amps: Jadis JA80
Pre amps changing volume control for stepped attenuators, output caps, etc
So is a long way do it & learned how sounds each component depending where used.
I'm not in competition with commercial products, here in our DIY world exist the pleasure to share, learn & enjoy with all the community & that's it's for me same important than do & very good phono, if I know you before for sure I saved a lot of money buying commercial products.
You have lucky: you have a clear idea what do you want, a lot of people don't know what he want's & spends a lot of money looking for.
Merlin,
I meant my comment to be a compliment to your pursuit of excellence. This is certainly a worthy circuit to invest time and effort into.
I meant my comment to be a compliment to your pursuit of excellence. This is certainly a worthy circuit to invest time and effort into.
Hi Merlin
I am sure it was money well spent !!!
I really apreciate your subjective impressions about different components.... Would you please replace the output caps and let us know the outcome before you go for the interstage ?
I am sure it was money well spent !!!
I really apreciate your subjective impressions about different components.... Would you please replace the output caps and let us know the outcome before you go for the interstage ?
I have only a very small batch of 2sk170gr. Most of mine are LSK170a. As far as I can recall no more than 1% fell outside grade range.
Except, when I got to LSK170C. Many in this grade were what I called C+ and these are roughly equivalent to 2sk369v.
I have bigger batches (200 off each) of 2sk170bl and 2sj109bl. So far I have not found any outside grade range.
It could be the factory mislabelled or mixed some batches and gave special prices to some vendors?. Don't know, excluding any error during measuring of course. If they are genuine, is not bad that Dual Triode got some strong ones too. DT, can you photo some on macro so we can see the labelling and if it looks genuine? You used the Ameter method with no drop resistor, right? What is the tolerance of those Ameters?