What about (very) simple designs which achieve worthy results? Are these worth bothering with?
What sort of designs do modern DJ gear manufacurers use? This is a big market, are they going simple or complex in their designs?
What sort of designs do modern DJ gear manufacurers use? This is a big market, are they going simple or complex in their designs?
95% (or 99%!) of all RIAA amps are simple. You have to go over 300 USD in order to get higher "techology". Most RIAA amps consists of a NE5532/34 or a 4556 plus a few passive components.
Check for instance NAD PP-1 and MTech, not cheap, very simple.
The vinyl market is rather limited these days and has no future (like tubes).
Check for instance NAD PP-1 and MTech, not cheap, very simple.
The vinyl market is rather limited these days and has no future (like tubes).
Re: Re: Simple RIAA phono preamps
This was a new one, never seen it. Very beautiful, but batteries....
16 hours at 4-6 USD (in Sweden), expensive but rechargable batteries are an alternative.
Rather high noise though (but lower than the vinyl itself). 😀 I wonder if the gain is for 1 kHz?
http://www.hagtech.com/trumpet.html
Cool! 😎
planet10 said:
This was a new one, never seen it. Very beautiful, but batteries....
16 hours at 4-6 USD (in Sweden), expensive but rechargable batteries are an alternative.Rather high noise though (but lower than the vinyl itself). 😀 I wonder if the gain is for 1 kHz?
http://www.hagtech.com/trumpet.html
Cool! 😎
Re: Re: Re: Simple RIAA phono preamps
He does mention adding a normal power supply... which is what i would do.
dave
peranders said:This was a new one, never seen it. Very beautiful, but batteries....
He does mention adding a normal power supply... which is what i would do.
dave
I think that Hagtech is an exception, most RIAA amps are high priced and low tech. Under 100 USD = junk (more or less).
Re: The Bugle
Nice, I like the front panel! I see also that you thought batteries were too expensive (or messy). Do you have the schematics of the amp? Curious as always.
Cobra2 said:
Nice, I like the front panel! I see also that you thought batteries were too expensive (or messy). Do you have the schematics of the amp? Curious as always.
Bugle!
The schematics of the Bugle can be downloaded from http://www.hagtech.com/bugle.html
I have tried some different op-amps, and caps, (the Wima caps are similar type as used in the "Cube").
There is a small "bug" : thermal noise when constructing/using very high gain, (over 45dB).
I think this can be bettered by a small re-design, using less resistance...
Per Anders, you can probably see and explain better...
Arne K
Norway
Yes, chassis is from Taiwan...
The schematics of the Bugle can be downloaded from http://www.hagtech.com/bugle.html
I have tried some different op-amps, and caps, (the Wima caps are similar type as used in the "Cube").
There is a small "bug" : thermal noise when constructing/using very high gain, (over 45dB).
I think this can be bettered by a small re-design, using less resistance...
Per Anders, you can probably see and explain better...
Arne K
Norway
Yes, chassis is from Taiwan...
peranders said:
I expect if Hagtech had to put this in a box with a power supply and sell it thru retail stores it would probably be $500-1000.
dave
Re: The Bugle
Arny,
Nice... was that since i emailed you the URL?
Way better than the Radio Shack you had enquired about.
I was thinking one of these might be good mounted in the plith of a TT. Now i'm thinking i should go ahead.
Coupled with a variation of Dice's linestage in the tube pre-amp thread i could lose my store-bought pre.
dave
Cobra2 said:
Arny,
Nice... was that since i emailed you the URL?
Way better than the Radio Shack you had enquired about.
I was thinking one of these might be good mounted in the plith of a TT. Now i'm thinking i should go ahead.
Coupled with a variation of Dice's linestage in the tube pre-amp thread i could lose my store-bought pre.
dave
Re: Bugle!
Yes, check the resistor values of the feedback. Way too high! Almost any RIAA of class has values from 5-10 ohms, max 100 ohms (MC) to 100-220 ohms, max 470 ohms (MM). High values generates noise.
OPA2130, ugh! noisy! NE5534 has 12 dB lower noise!
To have resistors in series with the non-inverting input are also totally unneccessary, adds noise only. The opamps are FET-type = very low input bias current => Resistor matching means nothing in order to reduce offset voltage. Since OPA2130 is a FET amp, this resistor choice can reduce distortion but I think it's more wise to have low resistor values instead, then the distortion will be low
Cobra2 said:
Yes, check the resistor values of the feedback. Way too high! Almost any RIAA of class has values from 5-10 ohms, max 100 ohms (MC) to 100-220 ohms, max 470 ohms (MM). High values generates noise.
OPA2130, ugh! noisy! NE5534 has 12 dB lower noise!
To have resistors in series with the non-inverting input are also totally unneccessary, adds noise only. The opamps are FET-type = very low input bias current => Resistor matching means nothing in order to reduce offset voltage. Since OPA2130 is a FET amp, this resistor choice can reduce distortion but I think it's more wise to have low resistor values instead, then the distortion will be low
Dave...
I will come back to you later...on more of your mu-metal...
I did build the Bugle several months ago, actually, I built 2...
The RS unit, was just to check what "everybody" at AudioAsylum raved about...(and I have more friends...), I do not believe it is very interesting.
Now, I also have one of Jocko's RIAA, (it's superb), and I have sold my Ortofon T-3000 Step-up trafo, and soon also my Denon AU-340 Step-up...
How great it is to be a bachelor.......😉
(BTW, I'm also car-crazy, having a Cobra II + 2 x Capri....)
Arne K
Norway
I will come back to you later...on more of your mu-metal...
I did build the Bugle several months ago, actually, I built 2...
The RS unit, was just to check what "everybody" at AudioAsylum raved about...(and I have more friends...), I do not believe it is very interesting.
Now, I also have one of Jocko's RIAA, (it's superb), and I have sold my Ortofon T-3000 Step-up trafo, and soon also my Denon AU-340 Step-up...
How great it is to be a bachelor.......😉
(BTW, I'm also car-crazy, having a Cobra II + 2 x Capri....)
Arne K
Norway
About OP-Amps
Tried first w. OPA2604 (what I had) =too noisy for the first two stages...tried then LT1364, did not like the sound (and still noisy),
ended up w. OPA2134 on first two, and a AD825(x2) last...
Have not tried more since the "Jocko RIAA" came in house...
Arne K
Norway
Tried first w. OPA2604 (what I had) =too noisy for the first two stages...tried then LT1364, did not like the sound (and still noisy),
ended up w. OPA2134 on first two, and a AD825(x2) last...
Have not tried more since the "Jocko RIAA" came in house...
Arne K
Norway
Re: About OP-Amps
Opamp for MM should have noise below 6-4 nV/sqrHz and MC <2 nV, 0,3-1 nV is good.
Cobra2 said:
Opamp for MM should have noise below 6-4 nV/sqrHz and MC <2 nV, 0,3-1 nV is good.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.