We are going to polish Android interface first and later port the application to IOS, SailfishOS, Windows, BlackBerry and probably FirefoxOS.
I personally use a SailfishOS phone, so I had to learn first some QT in order to port the application. One at a time.
Regards,
Tibi
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Hi Fabian,
V1 = V2 = V3 = V4 = 5V
V1 and V2 must deliver at least 250mA each.
Still not satisfied after mounting V3 and V4 ?
Regards,
Tibi
Hi Tibi,
my kit is not yet here. I am quite sure I will be satisfied, especially if compared to my current transport. It is just that I love to build things and search for new possibilities to push things to a new limit. And as there is a new GB for Salas boards currently showing up, why not use the possibility. If the improvements are not as good as expected, I can always use those 5V boards to power up Raspberry Pi + Hifiberry setup which I am still looking to improve. Reflector D boards deliver 5V / 600mA which should be enough to power up V1 and V2, as well as a Raspi B with just a WiFi dongle attached.
Any info on your BT addition yet? A quick glimpse onto the board / schematic to give us more sneaky teasers?
Regards,
Fabian
my kit is not yet here. I am quite sure I will be satisfied, especially if compared to my current transport. It is just that I love to build things and search for new possibilities to push things to a new limit. And as there is a new GB for Salas boards currently showing up, why not use the possibility. If the improvements are not as good as expected, I can always use those 5V boards to power up Raspberry Pi + Hifiberry setup which I am still looking to improve. Reflector D boards deliver 5V / 600mA which should be enough to power up V1 and V2, as well as a Raspi B with just a WiFi dongle attached.
Any info on your BT addition yet? A quick glimpse onto the board / schematic to give us more sneaky teasers?
Regards,
Fabian
My kit arrived yesterday. A quick test setup, still without V-Regs / Tentlabs / Vishay Z-Var Resistors and my, still to debug, Subbu DAC.
I have to admit Tibi... even with just a the few mods you know I / you did... wow! I am really looking forward how sound develops when the Mundorf C8 gets burned in (around 300-400 hours).
Absolutely gorgeous. Haven't heard ANY transport coming even near this beauty... the stage becomes so wide... depth, transparency... WOW! Have to go back listening to music Will report back later after the next mods are done!
Thank you for making this happen!
I have to admit Tibi... even with just a the few mods you know I / you did... wow! I am really looking forward how sound develops when the Mundorf C8 gets burned in (around 300-400 hours).
Absolutely gorgeous. Haven't heard ANY transport coming even near this beauty... the stage becomes so wide... depth, transparency... WOW! Have to go back listening to music
Will report back later after the next mods are done!Thank you for making this happen!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
My kit arrived yesterday. A quick test setup, still without V-Regs / Tentlabs / Vishay Z-Var Resistors and my, still to debug, Subbu DAC.
I have to admit Tibi... even with just a the few mods you know I / you did... wow! I am really looking forward how sound develops when the Mundorf C8 gets burned in (around 300-400 hours).
Absolutely gorgeous. Haven't heard ANY transport coming even near this beauty... the stage becomes so wide... depth, transparency... WOW! Have to go back listening to music
Thank you for making this happen!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thank you !
Regards,
Tibi
Please ask Nikon2 to provide more details. How he connected the trafo ? Does he respected positive and negative at the main board ?
ETC.
Regards,
Tibi
I prefer Reflector D, but the issue I see with Salas regulators is that these boards are large and you can not put them as close as possible to main board, so you'll have to "extend" gnd via wires.
Before going into any Salas solution, I suggest you to use two LT1086-5 for V1 and V2.
Regards,
Tibi
V1,V2 power supply?
I have on hand two transformers with 120v primaries, and 12v secondary's. I have two diode bridges made from 4 Silicon Carbide Cree CSD 1060A's, and two 10,000uf Mundorf M-Lytic Audio grade capacitors. Here's my questions. The transformers are 12v at 4.17 amps each. Should I use one tranny to two separate rectifiers and separate two capacitors? Or should I use both Tranny's for two completely separate power supply's ? I'm liking using both. Also, would it at all help to put a bypass cap on the 10,000uf M-Lytic capacitor? If so, what value? I have some extra caps from the CD mechanics mods. Thanks for any help.
I have on hand two transformers with 120v primaries, and 12v secondary's. I have two diode bridges made from 4 Silicon Carbide Cree CSD 1060A's, and two 10,000uf Mundorf M-Lytic Audio grade capacitors. Here's my questions. The transformers are 12v at 4.17 amps each. Should I use one tranny to two separate rectifiers and separate two capacitors? Or should I use both Tranny's for two completely separate power supply's ? I'm liking using both. Also, would it at all help to put a bypass cap on the 10,000uf M-Lytic capacitor? If so, what value? I have some extra caps from the CD mechanics mods. Thanks for any help.
You mean for V1 and V2 ?
10.000uF are too large for CSD1060, will surge a lot of current at fist startup and there is a possibility to destroy them. For CSD1060 use caps in range 1000uF-2200uF.
To charge 10.000uF capacitor you need at least C3D-10060A.
One tranny is enough.
To choose properly bypassing caps you need an DSO and choose proper snubber value based on measurements.
Regards,
Tibi
Hi Tibi. We stay in different region. He will distribute to us in 1 week time after he is back from outstation. Will keep you update.
Hi guys,
While am I still waiting mine on the way, I had read a lot of superb feedback from Shigaclone owners. I really want to know, what extend had this transport had been. Good as in between flat fish and Shigaclone or much better to both without any extra mode? Friends keep asking... what had we compare with. Say better transport in the market? Basically warm sounding? Compare to Hires and Lps? Please share abit more on your respective findings and I believe something to compare as a measurement can greatly improve the interest on this product. After reading for so many pages it seems unlimited improvement as a transport. Surely I can't follow all the upgrades but I strongly believe the purist design is great.
While am I still waiting mine on the way, I had read a lot of superb feedback from Shigaclone owners. I really want to know, what extend had this transport had been. Good as in between flat fish and Shigaclone or much better to both without any extra mode? Friends keep asking... what had we compare with. Say better transport in the market? Basically warm sounding? Compare to Hires and Lps? Please share abit more on your respective findings and I believe something to compare as a measurement can greatly improve the interest on this product. After reading for so many pages it seems unlimited improvement as a transport. Surely I can't follow all the upgrades but I strongly believe the purist design is great.
Trouble in paradise!
Shiga was working perfectly. I have it mounted on a sub chassis that will be mounted inside final box. I removed the Main Brd from the sub chassis and left the CD mechanics mounted on top, and did some fitting in the final box, drilled some mounting holes in the box, fitted the top panel. Bolted down sub chassis to box. I also disconnected the control brd from the display brd, and reconnected with some ribbon cable. Very fine gage. After fitting, I removed the sub chassis from the box, and reconnected it in my test setup. Now it doesn't work any more. When powered up she searches' around a bit before coming up with a zero, zero. After putting a disk on and hit CD Door, It spins the disk for a long time before it comes up with the same zero, zero. Way longer then it used to read TOC. The only difference in the test set up is that the display and control brds are now connected by a ribbon cable. Could that make any difference? Thank you all>
Shiga was working perfectly. I have it mounted on a sub chassis that will be mounted inside final box. I removed the Main Brd from the sub chassis and left the CD mechanics mounted on top, and did some fitting in the final box, drilled some mounting holes in the box, fitted the top panel. Bolted down sub chassis to box. I also disconnected the control brd from the display brd, and reconnected with some ribbon cable. Very fine gage. After fitting, I removed the sub chassis from the box, and reconnected it in my test setup. Now it doesn't work any more. When powered up she searches' around a bit before coming up with a zero, zero. After putting a disk on and hit CD Door, It spins the disk for a long time before it comes up with the same zero, zero. Way longer then it used to read TOC. The only difference in the test set up is that the display and control brds are now connected by a ribbon cable. Could that make any difference? Thank you all>
Hello Tibi, very nice set up you built there.Quick mounting on a bamboo chopper board.
Regards,
Tibi
A question, What is this drive you are using here? Made with plastic?
Thanks
Hi Alfred,
1. Please see here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kii-black-builders-thread-82.html#post4070335
2. You may not connect, but may I ask why ?
Regards,
Tibi
Thanks !
It's an old Sanyo SFP101N-16P bought from ebay.
From time to time you may catch such goodies.
I wrote about them here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kii-black-builders-thread-74.html#post4005319
Regards,
Tibi
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