Tried that yesterday, ie. lowpassing the 15" woofers with a 3,9mH coil (over ~150hz attenuates), but returned back to 2-way which is more fun
. The 2.5-way measures quite the same, little better. The 2-way is more chaotic >500-600hz than 2.5-way.
These are not true speaker measurements in a required environment but listening spot measurements with small window.
The massive and coherently "cylindrical wave" radiating midbass array is something. If that is taken away one loses something, gains something. Same applies to inverted phase of the array. Phase matches better near xo but total phase distortion is increased and a EGD bump shows up. I haven't decided on the abs. polarity yet which one is better.
Given a blind listening I might not detect any of these settings, they are not that big difference and whole lot of fun with either of them. 2-way is the funniest, big sound and best wide bandwidth kick with "guild bass" sounds.
4ms window:
2-way but inverted array for comparison:
10ms window:
. The 2.5-way measures quite the same, little better. The 2-way is more chaotic >500-600hz than 2.5-way.These are not true speaker measurements in a required environment but listening spot measurements with small window.
The massive and coherently "cylindrical wave" radiating midbass array is something. If that is taken away one loses something, gains something. Same applies to inverted phase of the array. Phase matches better near xo but total phase distortion is increased and a EGD bump shows up. I haven't decided on the abs. polarity yet which one is better.
Given a blind listening I might not detect any of these settings, they are not that big difference and whole lot of fun with either of them. 2-way is the funniest, big sound and best wide bandwidth kick with "guild bass" sounds.
4ms window:
2-way but inverted array for comparison:
10ms window:
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Step comparison (inverted in Rew to same polarity):
Preliminary feeling with a wide bandwidth kick bass sounds to yer face that the inverted array wins being slightly more coherent in the chest slam and slightly fuller kick. Maybe the horn also disappears better.
By looking at the step the inverted also outputs all of it's energy with less time dispersion (0,33ms vs. 0,8ms between the peaks), althought with more phase shift.
Preliminary feeling with a wide bandwidth kick bass sounds to yer face that the inverted array wins being slightly more coherent in the chest slam
and slightly fuller kick. Maybe the horn also disappears better.By looking at the step the inverted also outputs all of it's energy with less time dispersion (0,33ms vs. 0,8ms between the peaks), althought with more phase shift.
Pulled a trigger on these "goldmund" amps: T300 Copy/Study Goldmund Telos 300 Power Amplifier Mono Block Power amplifier 200W*2@8ohm 400W*2@4ohm|Amplifier| - AliExpress
Quite lovely layout and everything, very simplistic schematic also. Lets see how they sound
I used to get rude PM's from speaker genius Rick Craig of Selah Audio in the US by showing this picture without a credit:
But a thing of staggering loveliness IMO.
Buy 6 of them for your home cinema. Spare the Scan woofers from bass duty and (maybe, because my brother-in-law is a bit vague on technicalities....he pays Swedish* people to do it for him) RAAL ribbon tweeter, and you are close to perfection. My brother-in-law has built 4X 15" Scan woofers into his wall too.
TBH, my friend, I think your sideways drivers are not beyond criticism:
But we always build a MK. II, eh?
Not true. I only asked for you to credit where the photo came from and that I did the design.
These Telos clones seem well built, assuming the Siemens, Sprague and Toshiba labeled parts are original
"Inverted" looks better and I thought it was long ago established that humans are insensitive to phase shifts within very generous tolerances.
Those big sprague caps are used in many chi-fi products. Some vendors say they are 2nd hand (and can vary), pulled from some old electronics/computers etc. Breeze Audio is quite big manufacturer/seller and says in the add that the parts are original, but I have my doubts naturally
In any case cannot complain at that price (and weight, considering the aluminum radiator is so small).I will most likely change the critical parts, not at first but at least at some point. Kemet caps have good price-performance in many psu caps, would be around 50-70€ a pop for the big psu screw-on caps at 0,1F size. Some resistors directly in series with the signal (gate resistors, load resistors of the first long tailed pair inverter etc.) could also be changed to some more boutique alternatives.
The main selling point for me was the simplicity and layout. Not many rotting electrolytics there. I don't see myself owning complex amps with hundreds of electrolytics, tens of opamps etc., those do not stand time well.
Well, that's the bottom-of-the-line class AB integrated, using bipolar transistors.
I was referring to their top-of-the-line class A power amps, using mosfets ;-)
Those big sprague caps are used in many chi-fi products. Some vendors say they are 2nd hand (and can vary), pulled from some old electronics/computers etc. Breeze Audio is quite big manufacturer/seller and says in the add that the parts are original, but I have my doubts naturally
I will most likely change the critical parts, not at first but at least at some point. Kemet caps have good price-performance in many psu caps, would be around 50-70€ a pop for the big psu screw-on caps at 0,1F size. Some resistors directly in series with the signal (gate resistors, load resistors of the first long tailed pair inverter etc.) could also be changed to some more boutique alternatives.
The main selling point for me was the simplicity and layout. Not many rotting electrolytics there. I don't see myself owning complex amps with hundreds of electrolytics, tens of opamps etc., those do not stand time well.
If the caps are the real deal and measured beforehand, I wouldn't worry about it. Those industrial grade caps usually last a lifetime.
Agreed, the (dicrete) layout and the simplicity of these amps is on par with the best high end stuff.
This pre amp doesn't look too bad either:
Attachments
Bottom-of-the-line it may be, but it's still a 5k amp
The Class A monsters are undoubtedly among the very best, but I guess I'm 'too green' to justify the electricity bill of those.
Attachments
That pre is a beauty. Might be good bang for the buck.
There are many quite interesting amps and pres on aliexpress imo. Taobao also, but sellers on aliexpress seems to have almost all the same models and at the same price.
Speaking of nice looking class a amps, this one looked quite non-compromizing, although cannot be had for peanuts: € 534,75 18%OFF | WM AUDIO M1000 dual channel 64W + 64W fever class A post-amplifier
WM AUDIO M1000 dual channel 64W + 64W fever class A post amplifier|Amplifier| - AliExpress
There are many quite interesting amps and pres on aliexpress imo. Taobao also, but sellers on aliexpress seems to have almost all the same models and at the same price.
Speaking of nice looking class a amps, this one looked quite non-compromizing, although cannot be had for peanuts: € 534,75 18%OFF | WM AUDIO M1000 dual channel 64W + 64W fever class A post-amplifier
WM AUDIO M1000 dual channel 64W + 64W fever class A post amplifier|Amplifier| - AliExpress
The Athos Audio Yuichi horns are here, I'm loving them! Bomb proof packaging and flawless woodworking. The adapter plate was a bit tricky to attach the driver to (small clearance for fingers), but I don't roll different comps everyday.
Faital/Yuichi vs. Tad/Usher:
Faital HF1440 are sounding nice. It's really hard to detect any colorations in it, or hear the sound "of the plastic" ketone polymer diaphragm. Maybe it's 5-10% "slower" and rounder than TAD, but very agreeable on the other side of the coin. The mids remind me of the Truextent plastic suspension Be-diaphragms (very good/reference level mids, but too slow hf transients "sock in the mouth" compared to tad). Faitals - very good allround performance, also in the HF. Mids are naturally mellow with very good separation and that ink blackness surrounds the voices. Details, smoothness, neutral tonality, lack of colorations, it's all there. They don't change their tonality at 100dB+ either. Faitals stay VERY composed at ear blasting levels with Opeth, In Flames, Sepultura etc. "circular saw quitar music". Like the Be-diapharagms also are good/best in this regard, Faitals are +/- on-par and I wonder if even better in some regard It's just very agreeable driver.
I should really test every comp in these wood oil/waxed Yuichi horns to be able to put them in correct perspective and which I would like the most. These Yuichis are so good sounding with wood oil/wax that leaves the wood's surface porous (it does not reflect like a low-loss mirror, HOMs etc.).
Faital/Yuichi vs. Tad/Usher:
Faital HF1440 are sounding nice. It's really hard to detect any colorations in it, or hear the sound "of the plastic" ketone polymer diaphragm. Maybe it's 5-10% "slower" and rounder than TAD, but very agreeable on the other side of the coin. The mids remind me of the Truextent plastic suspension Be-diaphragms (very good/reference level mids, but too slow hf transients "sock in the mouth" compared to tad). Faitals - very good allround performance, also in the HF. Mids are naturally mellow with very good separation and that ink blackness surrounds the voices. Details, smoothness, neutral tonality, lack of colorations, it's all there. They don't change their tonality at 100dB+ either. Faitals stay VERY composed at ear blasting levels with Opeth, In Flames, Sepultura etc. "circular saw quitar music". Like the Be-diapharagms also are good/best in this regard, Faitals are +/- on-par and I wonder if even better in some regard
It's just very agreeable driver.I should really test every comp in these wood oil/waxed Yuichi horns to be able to put them in correct perspective and which I would like the most. These Yuichis are so good sounding with wood oil/wax that leaves the wood's surface porous (it does not reflect like a low-loss mirror, HOMs etc.).
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