• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Selecting Capacitor(s) and Resistor(s)

From the simulation, Vk is at close to 11V. Ik must be Vk/R, so 11/200, so 55mA. Voltage drop across the tube is say Va - Vk, 310V. Dissipation is Ik * (Va - Vk), so approx 17W using estimation.
Using this information, I wrote some formulae, allowing folks to see the model as I see it.

So here is with the original 270Ω resistor, not enough it seems.
IMG_2566.jpeg


Then the recommended 330Ω resistor.
IMG_2567.jpeg


Resistance has not had a significant impact when consider most folks are unable to hear 0,001 percent distortion. More important, not red plating the tubes.
IMG_2568.jpeg
 
This is a good tool to develop the layout. It is fun to create the parts with the real world sizes. orientate the tube bases and wire it altogether in the drawing tool.
DIYLC
I would not call modeling fun, it is one of the worse programs I have ever used. The most frustrating is the having to select each command each time, lack of IPTs and OPTs, plus the in-ability to mirror and rotate like CAD. However, it is free and now know to do a layout takes hours, so only did half when realized how late it is.

Post your results here when you are done so they can be sanity checked before you do it for real.
I did the SE as simpler and get some experience before tacking a PP. The only thing is not sure how to model an ECL86, went with worst case, clearly can knock 2"/5cm off, for a 6"/15cm square board. So that part was fun, seeing how small a stereo amplifier can be.
IMG_2585.jpg
 
Please hit printscreen instead of taking a photo? Maybe alt-printscreen if you're using Windows? This -->
I just got to the page before you deleted both messages, then grabbed another one of your messages, pasted in the text, and still able to quote you. Buhaha. 😛

Then I would have to contend with paint, save it to the flash drive, pull out the flash drive, put it into the Macintosh, open the file, and drop it in. One of the things I loath about Microsoft is the inability to take a screen capture and drag it right into a post. Absolutely hate paint, totally asinine.

Taking a picture does work, does it not?
 
I was editing it - check again 🙂

Sharing as a thumbnail might help, too.

If you paste the photo into the window, click it after it's there (otherwise skip to the next part). then hit the trashcan to remove the inline photo...

Screenshot from 2023-03-03 00-28-38.png
Then click the attachment and click thumbnail...
Screenshot from 2023-03-03 00-28-54.png
 
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I was editing it - check again 🙂
I saw and saw no point to replying to basically the same post. 🙂

Sharing as a thumbnail might help, too.
How? Isn't a thumbnail smaller and be even harder to see?

Another option that crossed my mind is figuring out if can split an incoming fiber optic signal, the router is simply marked "LAN" with no notation of which is what. I don't see the point of paying $50 to have the luxury of internet to the desktop when do 99 percent of internet on the Macintosh; they have a useable wireless unlike Microsoft.
 
Doesn't your router have one INPUT (fibre) and several outputs? (WIFI or Ethernet)?
That is why I am puzzled, there are two ports for Ethernet, neither labeled.

To make it even more fun, there is five cables going from the box to outlets around the house, none of them labeled (the coaxes are, eventually get around to hooking up the FM antenna since now the provider uses fiberoptic, right now on top of the shelving and does okay).
 
Free from the garbage if you're lucky, or 10$CAD from Bozo : --> https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU
😳 Wow, they sure have come down in price, I remember paying $50 (same as the service charge to hook up the Ethernet). Question is if they are more reliable, the signal was always dropping. For $12 can give it a whirl, sure be nice not having to use a flash dive to transfer files back and forth. In other words, thank you. 😀
 
😳 Wow, they sure have come down in price, I remember paying $50 (same as the service charge to hook up the Ethernet). Question is if they are more reliable, the signal was always dropping. For $12 can give it a whirl, sure be nice not having to use a flash dive to transfer files back and forth. In other words, thank you. 😀
That's called "Sneaker Net" and we used to do it with floppies before networking was common/affordable. 🙂
When I was 16, I used NAT to share a first gen cable modem with my nextdoor neighbour.
I used a 10 base 2 network (coaxial cable - because it didn't need a hub and I didn't mave the cash for one anyway) between our 486's (80486DX) 🙂

Now, my phone could download the data required to fill the hard disc of that machine in a few seconds... I feel old now.
 
I would not call modeling fun, it is one of the worse programs I have ever used. The most frustrating is the having to select each command each time, lack of IPTs and OPTs, plus the in-ability to mirror and rotate like CAD. However, it is free and now know to do a layout takes hours, so only did half when realized how late it is.
If that was DiyLC, then I agree is is not perfect, but once you get the hang of it is is very useful for setting the correct physical dimensions of components, selecting tag strips or different circuit board styles, turning the valve bases so they are optimised for heat dissipation, heaters and lastly component planning.

Ypu have used real images of tubes in your layout. I would not do that. DIYLC comes with octal and noval tubes bases and you can label the pins. Just lable the pins for the tubes that you are using (for instance a, k, g, h, h, a1, k1, g1 for a dual triode) then use that to get the placement correct.
 
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