Yesterday I swapped crossovers in my Seas A26 from the Håvard series crossover back to the standard parallel 3.3uF/10R crossover. To my ear, the standard parallel crossover has a set back, muted midrange relative to the Håvard series crossover, but also more treble detail. The set back sound leads me to wonder whether there are phasing issues at the crossover point in the standard parallel crossover, that mutes the midrange. The treble detail in the standard parallel crossover however leads me to wonder if the tweeter would benefit from a blocking capacitor in the Håvard series crossover.
I did all this because I originally wanted to add an ohm or two in series with the tweeter in the Håvard series crossover, to pad it down. Now I sense there may be greater issues at hand with the tweeter's shunt coil not shunting all of the LF around the tweeter.
HNY, btw.
I did all this because I originally wanted to add an ohm or two in series with the tweeter in the Håvard series crossover, to pad it down. Now I sense there may be greater issues at hand with the tweeter's shunt coil not shunting all of the LF around the tweeter.
HNY, btw.
I thought about this a little more & decided that crossing the midwoofer a little lower in the Håvard filter was worth a try. This might be confirmation bias, but my perception is that doing so reduces the midrange shout (most obvious in records- they sound less 'recordy') & keeps the drivers from stepping on each other as much in the midrange- vocals and vocal echoes seem cleaner now. Anyway I had some Solen 6.8uF caps laying around so it was easy to swap out the Solen 5.6uF in my Håvard filter.
I do much, much prefer the forward, full sound of the series Håvard filter to the stock parallel crossover, separate of any tweaks to crossover pole.
.
I do much, much prefer the forward, full sound of the series Håvard filter to the stock parallel crossover, separate of any tweaks to crossover pole.
Last edited by a moderator:
do someone have the original 0/96 oragutan crossover design from John Devore ? , or can guess I think hes doing the woofer full range and has a simple crossover on the tweeter .
This is the closest I have gotten to find or guess what the crossover might be. looks to me 2 big capacitor and one big inductor and the woofer full range but its just a guess .
hello patrik96 how did you remove the dust cap of the woofer ? did it come off easily ?
do you have the dimensions of the delrin you used did you sand it down or molded it yourself ? did you use a screw that sticks to the magnet or glue ?
Hi,
As far as I remember use plastic screw, and may it ordered as a spare part what SEAS already use it (the dia is same as the pole)
As far as I remember use plastic screw, and may it ordered as a spare part what SEAS already use it (the dia is same as the pole)
Tested a charge coupled slightly tweaked version of the Håvard filter. This is in a sealed box, but with the classic dimensions.
Hi Airvoid,
What were the tweaked component values you used for the above measurement?
Best regards,
John
What were the tweaked component values you used for the above measurement?
Best regards,
John
Trip Back to the 60''s
Reviewed by adydula on 07/18/2023
Gosh Dynaco A25's when I was growing up were a really neat speaker with thousands and thousands of them built and sold. For some reason I missed this gem of a speaker. Well move forward in time and Seas has made a new version of this 2 way Dave Hafler design available with updated drivers! Seas A26.
I have owned many speakers over the years, from the $99 bookshelves to the $10K 180 lb floor standers. For the past few years, I noticed that a few vendors were offering this A26 design. Madison has the kit with all the new updated internals. Well, I finally bit the bullet and called Madsionsound and spoke to Josh and ordered the entire kit. Yes the price has risen but what hasn't lately! After a few questions we placed the order and included the Cherry cabinets built by John up in Conn. I also selected to top of the line Mundorf EVO Silver/Gold/Oil caps. Well worth the expense.
I no longer have the tools to make cabinets, so this was a quick way to get up and running. Well made, SOLID, nice Cherry Veneer, all openings cut out precisely to fit all the drivers and rear panel connection assembly. I asked John about additional bracing as mentioned in the SEAS application notes, and with his 30 years of building speakers did not think this was needed and if not done correctly could cause more issues. When I got the cabinets, there is no need for bracing imo. Solid, well built. Cabinets add $599 to the just north of $1200 for the internals.
Started at 8:30am and had sound tests at 3:30pm. Drilled pilot holes for the drivers and connection assembly. Cut all the foam panels for top/bottom and sides. Not enough foam for the back panel. A call to Adam and he sent me a supply of 1/4 wool felt for the rear panel. I used Loctite spray adhesive for all the damping.
I choose the 10 ohm resistor, soldered it all up. Used the slip on connectors. The ones on the tweeter were very tight and had to open up the connectors just a tad. All nice and tight, snug...no need for soldering. But if your anal go for it...just be careful.
If your mechanically inclined and can work with hand tools, this is an easy DIY project. Just take your time and think things through. You dont want to put a screwdriver through a speaker cone!
I used the foam for the front bottom slot instead of the 12 grams of polyfill.
I took the bag of acoustic filling and split it into 2 equal parts and weighed it...right around .11 lbs or 50 grams. I pulled it apart and placed behind the woofer area...with the internal wiring its easily suspended.
Did a sound test. Went well. Removed the drivers and applied the speaker gasket material re-installed and put on the soft feet.
Sound. One Word EXCELLENT. These speakers are just made for Acoustic material....I use a Van Alstine Ultravalve tube amp...the great granddaughter of the Dynaco ST amps...absolutely wonderful pairing.
Good ole Jazz at the Pawnshop...Limehouse Blues was superb..These are not bass monster but hey it doesn't have a dedicated woofer, its a mid-woofer!
A simple but elegant 2 way design that just works so well.
Very clean clear crisp sound, Wonderful airy presentation in my listening room, slight tow in. Have them on 24" sand damped stands. Dave Grusin's Sticks and Stones material will amaze you with how these 26's reproduce bass and sharp Strataco sounds, drums and the like. Piano, guitars sound so natural and "right".
In the end I wish I bought these years ago, but these are supposed to be even better than the original design. I highly recommend this kit and the folks at Madisonsound were nice and helpful. Great folks to deal with.
Ok...back to re-listening to my music collection, its all new again!! Dont wait! Life is short....
Alex
Your sonic impressions resonate with me. I'm glad you like your new speakers. They have a presence and tone that is hard to match, even if they are a bit slow or flubby compared to some British speakers, or lacking in bass compared to many.
I've been listening to mine with an F5m driving them for months now. It is a good pairing and if you're looking for a cheap and fun amp to try, I recommend it.
I've been listening to mine with an F5m driving them for months now. It is a good pairing and if you're looking for a cheap and fun amp to try, I recommend it.
Original David Hafler dimensions, yes.
The crossover: 8,2Ohm resistor, 680μH coil and 2x12μF Caps in series (caps have a 18V DC charge applied across , à la GregTimbers).
Last edited:
Hi All,
I've been reading this thread for a while now - thanks to everyone for your contributions!
I have a spare pair of T35C tweeters so I've decided to build the A26 speaker in Planet10's 70 L sealed version. I lack the knowledge to design crossovers, but plan to leave the crossover external for now and experiment with some of the variants discussed in this thread.
The tweeters I have are in wave guides which are routed to fit an 8" woofer so there is a bit of a gap, but I can redo this to fit snuggly around the frame of the A26RE4. The distance between the centre of the woofer and tweeter works out to be ~190mm.
Can anyone comment on the pros and cons of using the wave guide? If it turns out to be a bad idea, I have the original faceplates that I can revert back to.
Nic
I've been reading this thread for a while now - thanks to everyone for your contributions!
I have a spare pair of T35C tweeters so I've decided to build the A26 speaker in Planet10's 70 L sealed version. I lack the knowledge to design crossovers, but plan to leave the crossover external for now and experiment with some of the variants discussed in this thread.
The tweeters I have are in wave guides which are routed to fit an 8" woofer so there is a bit of a gap, but I can redo this to fit snuggly around the frame of the A26RE4. The distance between the centre of the woofer and tweeter works out to be ~190mm.
Can anyone comment on the pros and cons of using the wave guide? If it turns out to be a bad idea, I have the original faceplates that I can revert back to.
Nic
Waveguide is good - matches better the dispersion of the woof.
Also helps with time alignment, check your step response.
Also raises the output of the tweet, power and sensitivity, especially in the lower registers.
Also simplifies XO, 1st order is a possibility.
Go for it.
Also helps with time alignment, check your step response.
Also raises the output of the tweet, power and sensitivity, especially in the lower registers.
Also simplifies XO, 1st order is a possibility.
Go for it.
T35 in Jantzen WG, sounds great. We placed the ports in the base plate. The speaker can thus be positioned more flexibly.
They replaced the Kappa 9.2i (better sound overall, even with regard to the bass)
They replaced the Kappa 9.2i (better sound overall, even with regard to the bass)
Last edited:
