Did it myself. I was lucky, I guess. Experience based, I don't trust repair shops, much less their charging policy.
I think I am lucky as well. The joint between the flexible braid and the coil wire was the problem. It was indeed an oxidation or cold solder. It was an easy cleaning and resoldering job, it is now working and sounding as before. Ah! Life is good when there is music again.
This may confirm what seems to be a common problem of the Scanspeak 18W/4545 drivers used in the W/P speakers.
Thanks again for to help - much appreciated!
This may confirm what seems to be a common problem of the Scanspeak 18W/4545 drivers used in the W/P speakers.
Thanks again for to help - much appreciated!
i have a first version of the Wilson Sophia , and i have two much bass for my room do you think it will be better to bypass the crossover and go active for the low as going up to 150hz it is used as woofer and not a mid bass driver ? or go 3 way active to get full control ?
No. Do not overcomplicate it.
Put foam in the woofer port, then make measurements with REW and use parametric equalizer.
Put foam in the woofer port, then make measurements with REW and use parametric equalizer.
i tried but get not much better bass as the bump in the frequency is in the 100hz zone not so much on the low ported freqencies , i have also tried to make it closed with no success. that"s why i think a dsp controlled bass could be a solution to adapt this lovely speaker to any room .
It is not necessary to convert it to an active woofer - use DSP only (on the existing stereo amplifier).
100HZ is boosted becouse of havey dampenning of the enlocure volume with polyester wadding. (Target for Dave Wilosn was Q of 0.5) So you get tight fast upper basss but not much low octave. I did put only around 60% of wadding in my Puppys, got now very nice 25Hz boost, before that there was no real subs..
thanks for the tip ;, anyway i will go active soon , if Wilson has changed the crossover between the version 1 and two keeping the same drivers show that the first one was not the best for this speaker so going active will surely be an improvement.. shame that the passive crossover is potted so we can not make any change ourself and not tell me of secret magic box it"s just resistor self and capacitors... nothing an active crossover can't do..
Puppy has a 15 Ohm resistor connectect in parallel to the woofers, to tame the bass. You can remove it to get more boost, accesible underneath he box.
In such situations an additional subwoofer provide the wanted results. for the main speaker I realized a passive high pass unit (basically one inductor and one capacitor calculated for an acoustical f3 between 80Hz and 130 Hz) The low pass active filter for subwoofer is adjust between 50 and 80 Hz.
The dip in the area of the transition frequency in relation to an anechoic room is compensated for by the peak of the listening room.
Unfortunately this steps are not possible without measuring equipment - in this case only experiments with different arrangement of speakers in the room or equalizers (only notch filter character is necessary) are possible.