Scanspeak Rediscovery Loudspeaker

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speakerdoctor

R.I.P.
Joined 2006
classicloudspeakerservices.com
Inductor said:
What's your problem? Is that your business?! (police force/snitch) :rolleyes:
The Madisound Speaker Store

edit: you are being ridiculous.
There is no intention from neither part to practice any crime just talking and posting tech material that you have neither right to criticize.
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Thanks for posting a link that works! The OP's links in post #1 and 12 didn't work and neither did Post #13 work. So, I concluded (incorrectly) that Mad. had removed the kit because the xover design had been published on the net.

It is my understanding that when independent designers create a kit for the likes of Madisound and Meniscus to sell, a non-disclosure agreement is signed in order to thwart DIY'rs from independently building the design w/o those parts suppliers never having made a dime.

Evidently, the design is also displayed on the Mad. page with the kit - a VERY unusual occurance. Just browse some of the other kits Mad. is selling. I did a few and they did not disclose the xover design which is the heart of the success of most designs.

No, I'm not the kit police. I was just trying to make visitors here AWARE of the potential for a personal design that's been adopted by a parts seller to be withdrawn for disclosing key design details. That is all.....
 
Inductor

Inductor

Member
Joined 2006
Commercial Vendors vs. DIY*

speakerdoctor said:
I've never bought a kit from a parts seller. I can only wonder what, if anything, is preventing a kit buyer from drawing a schematic of a popular kit after he builds it and publishing it on the WWW. Hmmmm....does the kit buyer also sign a ND agreement? :))
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Nothing, no.

From what I understand (from market and layers) that's not the problem. Pictures, trademarks and ownership it's something different and I'm not posting about that now. But someone can design your face and that is not yours. "" You didn't build that! "" :D or it doesn't belong to you, it helps thinking about a Picasso. But the same crossover might belong to the designer that designed it originally for his speakers. Of course you can not PATENT it because (insert here the exceptions) it's made of available standard parts, that's why some people are afraid of it's misuse, but that's not the point.

I guess you are confusing a legitimate business vs. DIY (*) and this forum serves it's purpose. It doesn't mean, if you have a business that you can't register as a member. What I mean is; you can use/build one (or more) speakers for you and build/print/post schematics BUT you can not sell (various). Of course you can sell your speakers (1 pair). Common sense and self-respect helps a lot here. :cool:

With open source and kits usually the same thing applies. You/we will legitimately ask the owner/designer for permission for commercialization, if this is the case you are thinking of (for profit). In DIY (not a mass production factory) this politics doesn't apply, this is not the case as when you need more than one pair or 5.1, or 7.1 or whatever. So you are (should) always assuming you are building it for yourself or client (1 pair only or a set). This is (from a practical sense) what protection is for or against, lost profit damages control. If not suffer the consequences... ;)

How to Prove Your Hobby Is a Business | Nolo.com
 
S

swegen

Member
Joined 2013
This kit is still available on Madisound. I just caught this review by zilfinger on the same page and it has to be a joke, right?

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co...ry-loudspeaker-kit-pair/#product-page-reviews

Having lost an ebay auction for a north creek borealis I was looking for a precise imaging speaker with reasonable bass to fit a 1.4 cubic foot approximately 40 liter cabinet I had on hand. The aircirc tweeter/revelator kit was above my budget and the sr71 and others were too low. I looked at the eton but wanted more bass. Then I stumbled upon this rediscovery kit. A little research turned up the tweeter as formerly Peerless HDS for which there are many positive DIY reviews so I figured this was it. My roughly borealis sized speaker, not quite the floorstander the plans call for, with great imaging as monitors have and good bass.
Well, it was not without it's trials as the first baffle was 1/8 inch further away on the tweeter. This completely wrecked the imaging. So, another baffle and voila, c'est fixed! That part anyway.
The sledgehammer standard inductors for the revelator put the sound way in the background and you heard mostly the tweeter and although this was a nice "far away" presentation they had to go because the revelator is what the kit was really purchased for. Fantastic midrange with great detail and imaging the scanspeak revelator series are known for. Arguably the best mid woofer on the market right now. I wish I had gotten the upgraded goertz coils but at this point I put in some reasonably priced Jensen coils. This opened up the sound stage amazingly and really let the revelators come alive. At this point I noticed one revelator was breaking in more quickly than the other. A minor problem solved with more break in time.
Now the next thing I want to say is I am not a fan of clarity cap SA. To me they are anything but clear. Very lacking in detail. However I must say that like most I am a budget audiophile and have not tried the many boutique caps out there. Hovlands are nice but expensive. So the first thing I like to try is solen chatareaux film caps. These were in the kit at my request so I installed the crossovers and fired them up. Very nice without the terrible treble you get with solens and many tweeters. Solens have fantastic detail, especially when broken in and are sweet too. Most of the time they are too bright. Especially with metal dome tweeters. This tweeter is not a soft dome textile but a hard stiff textile dome. The best of both worlds and mates very well with the Solen caps. There was still something missing so I brought up the value to 12.22 with a .22 hovland and wow! Great improvement in depth and smoothness. A real positive tweak. Crossing a tweeter at 1500 Hz is also a fantastic plus. The loudspeaker design cookbook speaks very positively about this approach and many a fantastic monitor is crossed low. This gives a particular sense of clarity and spaciousness if done properly. I have had other 2 way speakes with low crossover points and I really enjoy this sound.
Now at this point I was still a little bit disappointed. Oh, I should say that internal wire always has an effect so to make sure I was doing this right I used doubled mundorf 1mm silver gold with techflex jacket. This is wonderful wire. Very detailed and smooth. In this size speaker at five dollars a foot from ebay it is well worth it.
So, for the finale. As I said, the speakers just didn't quite have it at this point, even with all the above tweaks each of which made tremendous improvements. I have, in the past tweaked a few power amps with Cardas binding posts and noted that some speakers come with these fantastic posts. I had originally used some cheap brass posts from dayton. Don't do this.
When I put in the gold plated solid copper billet Cardas binding posts I had left over from an amp project, well, you just wouldn't believe it.
These are simply the most amazing speakers you ever heard in a mid-sized package. Nothing but smooth, spacious, luscious, mind boggling, take you someplace far away speakers. Everything, I mean everything was there. The bass also came out of nowhere and made this sound like a full sized floorstander. Of course they were close to the walls in my smallish listening room but the bass is ALL there.
Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful.
So, my friend if you don't have the money for the aricirc tweeter kit do not fret. Just get the better inductors and make sure you use Cardas binding posts, The plain copper ones are about sixty dollars for two speakers so no excuses there. If you build this kit as I did you will never regret missing out on your dream speakers on ebay as you will find these are truly a dream come true.
No kidding!
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:hypno1:
 
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S

smnjn

Member
Joined 2010
In room response of Rediscovery measured by Sangram in his room. Thanks Sangram.
 

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B

BaffleChallenged

Member
Joined 2014
question about cabinet construction

Hi, I would like to obtain more detailed information about the cabinet, more specifically:
1)At what depth should the woofer recess be cut?
manufacturer drawing show two measures for rim thickness, 5,6 mm to shoulder, 7,9mm to top.
2)Is it a good thing to chamfer the back panel of the woofer like this?
chamfering.jpg

3) can I put a grill in front ?
i have two cats and they are somehow attracted to loudspeakers, i would like to protect the drivers as much as i can.;)

Regards
 
B

BaffleChallenged

Member
Joined 2014
if you refer to post#1 of this thread you will get the details.
I took my components from Solen since they are very close. The inductors are not the same as the kit, but I bought the original inductors from Madisound and they sound the same to me, no difference in measurement either. I kept the Solen air core.(my brother may take the iron core if he decides to build himself a pair). The stuffing is different also, and the wood thickness. Judging from what I hear the difference probably do not have a big impact on performance.
I hope this helps

regards,
 
R

RickH

Member
Joined 2007
I am interested in this kit and have a few questions. I would appreciate any advice.

1. The cabinet drawings for this speaker shows 1 inch material. Would it be acceptable to use 3/4 inch material if the correct volume and placement is maintained?

2. The Madisound web page recommends a 2 inch diameter by 6 inch long vent. The cabinet drawing depicts a single 4 inch diameter vent with no length (maybe the 1 inch cabinet thickness?). Can anyone tell me which is correct? Thank you,

Rick
 
B

BaffleChallenged

Member
Joined 2014
Hi, I used 3/4 mdf as I could not find any 1" material.
I did not change the dimensions because I was afraid it could have a negative impact on sound dispersion, I also used different stuffing inside.
I added little pieces of wood on the inner walls as I secured the baffle with countersunk screws. I have no rattling problem, but it is a possibility with thinner faceplate.

2) the port is 3 plastic pieces, 2 flared tubes and 1 union ring. the tubes have different flared endings. I guess there are pictures available on the net.

regards,
 
R

RickH

Member
Joined 2007
Update to my post #38 above:

It appears the 4 inch diameter port on the cabinet drawing is to fit the outside diameter of the 2 inch flared port.

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/flares/ports/vents/2flare-complete-kit/

I am considering building these by gluing two 1/2 inch sheets for the one inch material specified. This looks like an easy, straightforward build. Thanks to the designer, Suman Jana.
 
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