It ought to be done. Even I have my own page now and I barely sanded the boxes 😀
SBA 16 MTM Sealed Variation Build
I will do that, i need to bring in some lights to show off the grain better! different question, how do you quote the relevant part of someones post please, i am new to this!
I have a small project studio I put together here and built about a dozen bass traps of various types and densities. I am quite comfortable with the futility of seeking a flat response in the low end. I got a 10’ sq room from +/-15 to about +/-8 and declared success. I won’t be treating the living room. The REW sweeps were mostly about making sure I built the MTMs right.
I think that's a very relevant point, i started chasing the wrong things early on, so later, i put the mic next to each driver and measured their output, for example, in room, the treble falls away, next to the tweeter its flat as a pancake, perhaps more diffusion, less absorption at some point, meanwhile i discovered that somehow one of my plate amps had a different era of firmware to the other and the manufacturer updated the levels between them, so i was chasing 5Db difference between the two for a while that was programmed in, if i had measured each driver like for like at the beginning i would have known that........
I didn't veneer the fronts although i think it looks great because i leave the grilles on and thought my radiused edges on the grille were pretty high WAF, to use Troels dictionary, actually they are in my office/den so that matters less, yes, loads of red kites up there, on the road access to the farm where they are located i sat and ate lunch watching them, also we are just on the west edge of the new forest so each day i exercise walking up the valley side to the forest and back, and there are a few down here now. The oiled black MDF, looks really good to me alongside the walnut, but a veneered front looks classy!
I will post for Troels but keep wanting to get some lights and a better picture or so!
So, having some spare time, i obviously have all the bits for my Fusions, and i read the pages, could it work that i use exactly those same parts on an open baffle? - that question may be idle curiosity, but you never know....it might just be something to do....
It sounds like you've made a few, how did you get to MUN 17, are they running yet?
If I had been able to get the immaculate machine-produced finish Troels manages with his black MDF baffles, I would have stuck at that, but my own looked a bit rough, so I put some ash veneer on top, and I'll paint this black once I am happy with the surfaces.
The MUN-17 are my second of Troels's projects. I finished a pair of his SEAS 3-Way Classics about four years ago, which are very nice, but in conjunction with my 300B amps the bass is slightly waffly. So a design using a plate amp for the woofer was very appealing. I had the unveneered MUN-17s upstairs for a few days over Christmas, and they sounded very good indeed - I am having to force myself to be patient and do my best to finish them to as high a standard as I can, and this takes time.
Alex
I will do that, i need to bring in some lights to show off the grain better! different question, how do you quote the relevant part of someones post please, i am new to this!
I just quote the whole post and delete any text I don’t need. You can also copy the bracketed quote start/end code and wrap it around pieces so you can break up a longer quote and respond to individual pieces.
but in conjunction with my 300B amps the bass is slightly waffly. So a design using a plate amp for the woofer was very appealing.
Alex
Go on, make us jealous, what are the amps?
I have a prima luna and reckon taking the bass load off it to the Hpex has helped for sure, but of course i never compare like for like exactly as i dont have a full passive crossover.
Go on, make us jealous, what are the amps?
These: Kevin Kennedy's push-pull 300B monoblocs. Zero global feedback, so the output impedance is an ohm or two.
Alex
These: Kevin Kennedy's push-pull 300B monoblocs. Zero global feedback, so the output impedance is an ohm or two.
Alex
Well, you succeeded there, i feel an amp build will always be beyond me, i was worried enough doing the crossovers for my speakers!🙂
Well, you succeeded there, i feel an amp build will always be beyond me, i was worried enough doing the crossovers for my speakers!🙂
Start with a PCB based kit. You'll get to the finish line and probably not have any major issues.
Start with a PCB based kit. You'll get to the finish line and probably not have any major issues.
An amp might be on the cards in the long term, what kit would comfortably outperform my Prima Luna prologue 1, so even i can hear the difference? - it's a bit like building speakers that you cannot audition first!
But for now i am speaker oriented, i am very happy with the Fusion, however i do wonder about using the components on an open baffle to find out, i cannot justify another set of components, but a bit of wood and time............
If the goal is learning a kit is good. If you need to beat out a good production amp you’ll need lots of tools and time, if it can be done. No way to know. Maybe some day you will build a set of speakers for another room and need another amp. Then we can pick something.
If the goal is learning a kit is good. If you need to beat out a good production amp you’ll need lots of tools and time, if it can be done. No way to know. Maybe some day you will build a set of speakers for another room and need another amp. Then we can pick something.
Many thanks, my aim in building is to have the satisfaction of something that works at a much better quality for price than ready built stuff, and as i have the P.L it has to better that and be better value than a ready built alternative, people say diy speakers should be 4-6 times better on price, what about an amp?
In terms of raw performance (THD, power, frequency response) I bet you could build a similar amp for like $500. A fancy chassis and all the bells a whistles they list are probably flat out unattainable. To do “better” you’d need to know your priorities.
Do you feel 35W is enough power? I’m planning on a new amp build for the new speakers but I’m not sure how far to take it. I’m using a 5W SET right now.
Do you feel 35W is enough power? I’m planning on a new amp build for the new speakers but I’m not sure how far to take it. I’m using a 5W SET right now.
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In terms of raw performance (THD, power, frequency response) I bet you could build a similar amp for like $400. A fancy chassis and all the bells a whistles they list are probably flat out unattainable. To do “better” you’d need to know your priorities.
Do you feel 35W is enough power? I’m planning on a new amp build for the new speakers but I’m not sure how far to take it. I’m using a 5W SET right now.
Hi There, concerning an amp project, or actually anything else, i am far more interested that it sounds great than looks, although i was pleased with my speakers appearance, so, one day, maybe i should build an amp if i can detect a noticeable step forward, but not just an equivalent.
Concerning power, of course with Troels' Fusion i have 2 Hypex 251 modules on the bass ( i think 200w a side), i use the high level input facility, anyway, much more than needed and so yes, power is way in excess of what's needed, i have never advanced the volume as far as half way, that would hurt.
Proac 130's preceded the Troels Fusion BAD and they didn't have the bass to challenge anything much, but i suspect that a passive Fusion might stretch the PL.
Hi All,
I’m probably a couple days away from a first listen on a new build so I thought I’d post some random photos so everyone can tell me all the things I did wrong that I can’t undo 😱
As per the title this is Troels’ SBA 16 MTM. My priority is midrange clarity so, after some discussion in the forums here and a quick double check with Troels I decided to go sealed and reduce the size a bit for ~.7 qtc with a -3db at 60ish hertz. Parts are from Jantzen (naturally).
I’m quite a poor carpenter so box building is typically one disaster after another. This build has been no different but I’m confident I’ll get to the finish line this weekend. I just have to make the crossover, glue in the back, make an access door for the crossover, and mount the drivers. They won’t be pretty unless I try my hands at veneering down the road. Frankly this project has been dragging on since Christmas so I have full tunnel vision on getting them hooked up in my living room regardless of what they look like. I’ll start uploading pictures in my next post.
Brian
Hi Brian
I am interested in building the SBA 16 MTM sealed myself can you tell what changes you made to the cabinet to reduce the volume to give a qtc of 0.7
Hi colmo,
Troel’s article includes the response with a larger ported enclosure and smaller sealed enclosure. That section (under “cabinet”) is where I got the target volume. To achieve that volume I simply reduced the height of the cabinet from the bottom and sealed it up. Good luck! I’m still using mine.
Brian
Troel’s article includes the response with a larger ported enclosure and smaller sealed enclosure. That section (under “cabinet”) is where I got the target volume. To achieve that volume I simply reduced the height of the cabinet from the bottom and sealed it up. Good luck! I’m still using mine.
Brian
Hi Brian not sure if I am being a bit dim but cannot find anything in the article on his website saying the target volume or dimensions for a sealed enclosure.
Can you help a bit more, thanks
Can you help a bit more, thanks
Nope, my memory is just off. He has response curves for vented and sealed but both with the same internal volume. I must have used speaker builder to drop the volume and see where the QTC of .7 hit. Regardless, my external dimensions are 12" deep, 28" tall and 8 3/8" across the front. I used 18mm plywood. That resulted in whatever internal volume I had determined at the time to be optimal.
Edit: and a quick run of the numbers shows an Fb of ~60Hz with a .7 Qtc at 27 liters (two drivers). The gross volume of my box is about 32 but net is less because of the drivers and bracing.
Edit: and a quick run of the numbers shows an Fb of ~60Hz with a .7 Qtc at 27 liters (two drivers). The gross volume of my box is about 32 but net is less because of the drivers and bracing.
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Is it a problem to put the circuit diagram so we can see why it plays so well?Hi All,
I’m probably a couple days away from a first listen on a new build so I thought I’d post some random photos so everyone can tell me all the things I did wrong that I can’t undo 😱
As per the title this is Troels’ SBA 16 MTM. My priority is midrange clarity so, after some discussion in the forums here and a quick double check with Troels I decided to go sealed and reduce the size a bit for ~.7 qtc with a -3db at 60ish hertz. Parts are from Jantzen (naturally).
I’m quite a poor carpenter so box building is typically one disaster after another. This build has been no different but I’m confident I’ll get to the finish line this weekend. I just have to make the crossover, glue in the back, make an access door for the crossover, and mount the drivers. They won’t be pretty unless I try my hands at veneering down the road. Frankly this project has been dragging on since Christmas so I have full tunnel vision on getting them hooked up in my living room regardless of what they look like. I’ll start uploading pictures in my next post.
Brian
I think the revenue stream that helps keep Troels making these designs is from people buying the kits. If he wanted the values public I’m sure they’d be on his website.Is it a problem to put the circuit diagram so we can see why it plays so well?
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