Red in all is fine. The most likely one to have marginally less intrinsic noise is the red as well. But due to C2's filtering action any small differences would get swamped. So if you want green or orange or yellow for aesthetic reasons in >5V out builds feel free to also select them. Say green LEDS look well with Nichicon BP green capacitors nearby. Or the rest of the build's circuit like DAC etc. has greens their light color you want to match not to have mixed ambient light escaping from box's top vents in the dark. Avoid blue and white though which are significantly noisier and have high Vf.
If you could also move the gate resistors so to be soldered directly with short ends at the Mosfets pin1 legs it could be successful. The higher on those legs towards where they enter the package the better. You should put wire links where the gate stopper resistors R3, R9 used to be on the board to complete the circuit.
If you could also move the gate resistors so to be soldered directly with short ends at the Mosfets pin1 legs it could be successful. The higher on those legs towards where they enter the package the better. You should put wire links where the gate stopper resistors R3, R9 used to be on the board to complete the circuit.
Thanks so much for the reply! I'm really only looking to have more room with M2 on the positive reg. I'm not exactly sure what you mean, especially the last part about finishing the circuit. I was hoping that adding short wires to the legs of the regs wouldn't change the circuit properties... Are you saying that if I make the legs of one reg ever so slightly longer, I should compensate at R3 and R9 somehow?
Thanks again for the technical support, I'm looking forward to putting everything together in the next few days!
I meant if you move a gate stopper resistor out of the board following a MOSFET you will also have to bridge the pads of its original place. Else the circuit will have no continuity to the gate anymore.
Oh wait... I was only trying to move the MOSFET itself. Do I have to move the resistor out of the board too? Thanks!
You said you want to move M2 1cm away from the board, right? OK stick R9 where the MOSFET's gate pad is now and use it as a wire until its gate leg. For the other two legs use wires. R9's original pads bridge them together with a wire too. So the continuity isn't broken. Easy.
You said you want to move M2 1cm away from the board, right? OK stick R9 where the MOSFET's gate pad is now and use it as a wire until its gate leg. For the other two legs use wires. R9's original pads bridge them together with a wire too. So the continuity isn't broken. Easy.
Interesting! But why not just three wires for the MOSFET and keep R9 where it was?... Is it just to save a wire since resistor legs are generally long? Also, I think the total "length" of the legs actually wouldn't change as it's more of a shift sideways and inwards than moving out 1cm.
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Because R9 is a gate stopper working against oscillation probability and there must be no extra wire self-inductance between its end and the gate leg.
That's serious. Will post back when I get it to work! Thanks again
One more question, I'll get a 0.3mm mu-metal strip around the small toroidal for shielding, but I also have another small PCB toroidal in the case (from the SKLite dam1021 control unit). It's sealed but unsure if it's shielded. Would it be absolutely terrible if I have four strips soldered together at the edge to form a rectangular shape that fits? Thanks so much for the advice!
It does not work that way
... So maybe the best I can do is just leave it as is? I'm a computer science person but I can imagine that my proposed seam treatment probably neglects certain laws of nature. Could it still help though to have something outside the rectangular transformer? May have space for a (unevenly curved) circular shield as well. Thank you!
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